live_evil626

Turns out I was mistaken. The day before yesterday, on my way out of the house, as usual I went out and started the car. Then got the kids in and buckled up. I do it in that order so the car is well on its way to temp. by the time I get in. This day however, before I could get the baby buckled, it stalled. Didn't choke, stumble, or whimper. Just flat out shut off, as if the key had been turned. It started right back up, no hesitation at all. I get in and make it to the end of the block, before it dies again. Same thing, just shut off. Start it again, no issues and turn around for home. Coast to the house, because it died again. I recalling reading on the forum about symptoms similar to this being mentioned, and the C.P.S. being the culprit. So I run to my computer and order a new one. I got it this morning. I ran the car for codes, their were none. I know that they are not always present, and my code reader is a cheapy so can't go solely off that. Decided to try and start it again before I changed the C.P.S. out. It ran for about 5mins. total, only it did it about 30secs at a time. So I went ahead and swapped the C.P.S. and now it won't start at all. The only other thing it could be is the M.A.F. right? I think so, but I also thought it was the C.P.S. So your opinions are needed please.

RichardM98

Well, the most common symptom of a faulty CPS is the car stalls when hot and won't restart until cooled down some. That doesn't quite sound like what you are experiencing.

BTW, all ODB II scanners are about the same. The one's that cost a little more just have the descriptions programed in instead of looking them up in a book or CD program. None of them can read MB manufacturers codes such as the ECU and TCU. That's what an SDS is for and generally means a trip to a dealer or if you know an independent mech who has one. I suspect that an SDS scan will point out some issues which is generally better than guessing with your credit card.

I don't think your problem is the MAF. You can disconnect the MAF and the car will seem to run fine. However, it's running too rich and eventually the cats will overheat and breakup.

live_evil626

Thank you so much for your input. If its not the Cps, then what can it be? I forgot to mention that every time it stalled I would get a 'battery charge' warning. Do you think it could be the battery, alternator, or voltage regulator? Would any of those show up in the dtc's???

ohlord

maf it would run with a bad maf and it would show a maf related code.
Have you tried the obvious?
A bad Battery or loose Battery terminal?
Start there.

live_evil626

Just got a brand new battery. Still no improvement. Same as before, starts no problems, then dies after about 30 secs. 'Battery Charge' on the dash display. I'm going to check the alternator right now. Then I don't know what???

live_evil626

New MAF, no improvement, still the same. What are the symptoms of a bad cam position sensor?

SoCal208

Faulty fuel pump ?, no fuel the engine will die, or a plug fuel filter ?. Have you replace the fuel filter in the last 30-40K miles ?. The BOSCH fuel filter is not cost that much, try that one (do not buy after market filter), before the fuel pump. Good luck.

live_evil626

I did change the fuel filter when I first got the car, about 1200 miles ago. I ordered it from autohuas, so the quality should be ok. I did however have that on my list of things to check.
Does anyone know how much pressure I should have at the fuel rail?

ejsheltra

It is either of three things, air, fuel or spark. Check the fuel lines(all of them) for any crimping or damage. It sounds like it is heating up and then shutting down on you. In much older cars that used to be a sign of a bad coil. Here I would check your fuel delivery system first. As for alternator simply disconnect the battery and see if the car still runs. If so the alternator is ok. Check with Oh Lord first before performing this as the electronics in these cars may not tolerate that. Oh lord any thoughts??? Check all the obvious things first like clean air and fuel filters and tight connects and look for any signs of leaks on or around the motor especially for gas leaks.

Huachipato

I imagine you may have already done this, but my car was running a little rough as well a few months ago. I swapped out the air filter and the issue oddly went away.

I dealing with my own gremlins right now - but one issue I do have is the batt/alternator red screen popping on a few times. I invested in a trickle charger while the car is having issues. Since I've plugged it into the car - I have not seen that screen show up again. I do think a lot of cranking and not much driving will drain the battery faster than the car can re-charge it.

ejsheltra

I do think a lot of cranking and not much driving will drain the battery faster than the car can re-charge it.[/QUOTE]

These cars require battery to be at full charge from starting and proper running. Check all electrical connections first. Standard battery is good for 4-6 years and the black gel battery is good for 5-9 years depending on use. Stop and go draws heavier load on batteries and does not allow recharge back to full specs. It requires at least 30 minutes of running off idle to recharge from start up. The black gell batteries are mostly found in the estate wagons and more heavily optioned cars and run about 225-250$US to replace.

live_evil626

Late last night was an unusually cold night for here in California, I was up late trying to figure what the hell was wrong still. Following everyones advice I've gone through just about every inch of it. All the intake, all of the exhaust, and all of the fuel system. Battery, fuses, relays, hoses and lines. Just before I called it a night I tried starting it one last time, maybe I would get lucky and magically all would be well. It started first try, and ran fairly well. I sat and watched it, and as soon as it came up to temp. it died... I've been chasing my tail for days now, and come to realize I probably got a bum KPS. Bought it brand new. Its a Bosch, just like the one I removed. I guess I'll have to wait and see when the next new one arrives hopefully on Weds.

ejsheltra

Sounds for all the world like the CPS (crank position sensor). When changing out go easy on how tight it is put in. Hand tight plus a 1/4 turn should be plenty. Remeber this is not a seal you are trying to make. Best wishes and report back on the results after swap out. I replaced mine last year on the golf course at the Pittsburgh Grand Prix in July. I had access to the master mechanic from Bobby Rahal MB and he hit it right on the first diag. Has run great ever since.

live_evil626

I've been busy, taking everyones advice into account. I checked everything, and I mean everything. I returned the KPS I got from my local parts place and installed one from AutoHaus. This got the car to start, finally. It idled high, around 1000-1200rpm. And when I gave it any throttle input it would start surging. At all rpm's except for idle. So I rewired my throttle actuator/body due to the wire degrading to the point of no return. Now everything seems to be fine. I have noticed the rpm being a little weird, but I'm guessing its caused by the throttle and ECU still need to learn to get along? Thanks to everyone for their help. Couldn't have done it otherwise.

live_evil626

Its been a week or so and my idle still hasn't normalized. Now the CEL has come on, with a 'check engine electronics' message. I also pulled the code P0505 'Idle Air Control Malfunction' So is it a pre-existing problem, a result of the bad ETA, or did I just screw up the re-wire? Opinions needed.