dezymond

So one of my high beam lights isn't working properly. I swapped the bulbs and even used new ones, no luck. Could the wiring have gone bad?

I managed to take out the housing itself too, couldn't find anything wrong with it.

Also, I'm looking to install an HID kit. Anyone order from DDMtuning and use their kit? I've used it for different Hondas and Toyotas, but I know Merc uses different wiring, so anyone know if it really is "plug-n-play" when hooking it up to my e320 or do I have to get a kit made specifically for it.

Also thought of putting projectors in instead. Anyone know if the ones off ebay are direct plug-n-play with the current wiring?

RichardM98

Have you checked the fuses?

The external lighting fuses are behind a pop-off panel at the far left end of the dash. The door must be open to access. If you have a DMM or even a continuity tester (cheap) use one of those rather than eyeball. Should be #3 and #5

dezymond

Hadn't checked that yet...

Funny how we always forget to check for.the easiest solution

Thanks! I'll look at it later today

dezymond

Just checked the fuses.

I replaced it with the spare provided as I don't have any of the tools you recommended, Richard. No luck...

High beam itself works, just that when my lowbeams are on, the passenger side smaller light doesn't work (parking light?). Could it be the wiring?

RichardM98

You can get a cheap DVM at Radioshack (all auto parts stores) for under $10. If you don't want to go to a mechanic, you might want to get one. If the fuse is good and a known good bulb (lights elsewhere) doesn't light then you are down to the wiring. A DVM would let you check for voltage at the bulb socket.

Is the front anti-noise panel in place? It's important to keep water away from the area under the bumper.

dezymond

Considering this is my only problem that would require a DVM, maybe i'll ask some friends if they have any for me to borrow, don't think picking one up would be worth the $10 for one time use. However, if I do manage to get one, how many volts should I be getting? Can I find it in the manual or just compare it to the other side?

As for the anti-noise panel, what part is that exactly? Until I took out the housing myself, nothing on the car was touched and it's never been in any accidents. Don't know if normal wear and tear would have an affect on this panel though

RichardM98

These cars as well as all modern cars are full of electrical equipment. A small meter is indispensible for trouble-shooting.

On lighting most everything is 12v so you should be seeing 12v at the connectors on the socket. Small batteries like the key batteries see the voltage printed on the battery. Any less that 80% probably means it's about spent. Bulbs and fuses out of the circuit test the ohms (resistance). Zero ohms is okay and a high value means the unit is bad.

The anti-noise panel is black plastic and covers an area from the front bumper to the front of the engine. It is about 6' wide going from one end of the bumper to the other. If you look down in the space between the radiator and the engine and you can't see the ground it's in place.
There is a second much smaller one which only covers the back 2/3's of the engine.

dezymond

Indeed our cars are filled with electrical equipment and it is one of those "you never know" purchases. Was looking over the weekend to maybe getting one.

I'll take a look for the anti-noise panel once the car is back, but as far as I know everything that was factory, save for the radio, is in place and was never modified.

Minus the DVM test, I've kind of narrowed it down to the wiring, but I of course am no mechanic. I appreciate your help Richard, learned quite a bit from you

dezymond

Managed to get my hands on a DVM and bad news, passenger side only gets 5v compared to the driver's side that gets 12v

So I've done everything to my knowledge, unless you have other tips can I conclude that it is indeed the wiring?

RichardM98

What I'm not sure of is whether the circuit has a relay. A failing relay may produce a low voltage. If there is a short to ground I think you would be having noticeable battery issues.

Hope that helps some.

dezymond

I'm not sure if it has a relay either. Guess I'll have to go to my dad's mechanic with him and explain what I've done so far. A friend of mine who runs his own business dealing with car electronics/fabrication believes the wiring went bad, but he hasn't had time to diagnose it himself.

As for the batter it hasn't been changed for a 5 or maybe 6 years. I doubt it would fix the problem, but I think I'll go get him a new battery sometime this weekend or next week. The car starts up fine with no problem and every other electronic works fine without any hesitation.

Did all the at home diagnostics I could do, figure it's time for a professional to take a look at it. Appreciate all the help and advice Richard!

raymond g-

try this.....

the main wiring harness plugs into the headlight via a 2" long, oval plug. it is a
male plug with female electrical contacts......with male, spade contacts secured
within the headlight's socket.

sometimes (a bit rare) the headlight plug is un/plugged off center, causing one
of the spade contacts to unseat....and become pushed back/out from its locked
position and it begins to retract into the headlight shell. if this exists, it can
lead to a high resistance, low voltage situation.

to examine for this, pull the headlight and under strong light, examine each of
the spade contacts. if you see one which is suspect, you can grasp it with a
needle nose (or hemostat) and pull it back into position. hopefully, it will relock
into place.

do not reinstall the headlight just yet, but just lay it on blanket. plug in the
main harness (and mini harness for turn signal). turn on the headlight and
test lights for normal operation.

(p.s. since you're new, let me suggest that you modify your profile to include
the year of your model. it is important information which will help folks gauge
how to appropriately troubleshoot your ailment.)

dezymond

I'll have to check that out, but wouldn't this problem only be cause if the headlights were removed in the first place, or at least the connectors? Other than my dad's mechanic who exchanged bulbs the first time for him over 2 years ago, it was never disconnected. I'll try to take a look at it sometime this weekend, especially if it cools down and if my friend will let me use his DVM again.

Thanks for the tip with the profile and all your help with the lights.