E-Class (W210) 1995-2002: E 200, E 220D, E 240, E 290TD, E 300TD, E 200, E 240, E 280, E 320, E 420, E 430 (Wagon, Touring, 4Matic)

w210 Motor Mounts

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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 01:51 PM
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2001 E55 AMG - 2001 E320 - 1990 300CE
w210 Motor Mounts

I have a 2001 E55 that I have replaced the motor mounts on and that was fairly easy!

Now I just bought an 2001 E320 and it also needs motor mounts, one is ruptured. This job doesn't look as easy as the V8.

I have been told the way to get the old mounts out is to remove the exhaust manifold and when I look at it, that makes sense. That is a much larger job than I wanted to take on.

My question to all is: Has anyone actually replaced these motor mounts on the V6 without removing the exhaust manifold and if so how? Pictures and intstructions would be great.

Most shops want $600 to $800 for the job but the parts are only $120.
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 02:20 PM
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it should be no harder than doing it on the V8. There is absolutely no need to remove the exhaust manifold.
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 03:20 PM
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It is different!

Originally Posted by desired_speeds
it should be no harder than doing it on the V8. There is absolutely no need to remove the exhaust manifold.
Unfortunately the V6 just doesn't give you the room the V8 does to remove the old mounts. I have spoken to the dealer and they said the exhaust has to be removed to make room for the mount to come out.
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 05:15 PM
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I replaced mine a while back. I did not need to remove the manifold although I have seen references to that in online DIY posts. The WIS procedure doesn't suggest removing the manifold. However you do need to dismount the A/C compressor and push it a little forward to remove the left MM to the front. There are several DIY's on this repair. Access to the upper mounting bolts is tight. Generally, you need to work by 'braille' with a stubby wrench. Also, you need to raise the engine which means removing or at least detaching the fan shroud.
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 06:28 PM
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Shouldn't have to remove the exhaust but the AC does need to be moved as Richard mentioned. As you mentioned the V8 is easier but the V6 doesn't look too bad.

Photos of procedure.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...lacements.html
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 08:00 AM
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Thanks for the link!

Originally Posted by suicidal4life
Shouldn't have to remove the exhaust but the AC does need to be moved as Richard mentioned. As you mentioned the V8 is easier but the V6 doesn't look too bad.

Photos of procedure.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...lacements.html

That is a great link with some good pics! Thanks, perhaps I will give it a try. And it does give me some material for battle with the shops over their prices, if it truly is a 2 hour job. I'm sure they quote the removal of the exhaust manifold and use the AC trick to make the profits rise.
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 05:38 PM
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Hi all- I am in the middle of doing this job- and taking out the mounts was np- putting the little ****ers back in- with the heat shields- has been one BIG PITA- does anyone have a trick on doing this? Autohasz came through with good parts/ good price- thanks to all on the forum who recommended them.
I used the online docs, its straight forward- maybe my fault for not marking the shields as they fell out unbolting the mounts. And doing this alone- ugh- two people would maek this so much easier. I just cant catch the thread going thru the heat shield into the new MM. Any help appreciated- and thanks in advance.

PS- anyone know the correct way the heat shields are supposed to go in? Thanks again.

Last edited by 9918939; Jan 9, 2012 at 05:48 PM.
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 06:18 PM
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PS- anyone know the correct way the heat shields are supposed to go in? Thanks again.[/quote]

I can take pictures of the way they are in on mine, if that will help.

Also if you take pictures of your DIY, please post them here.
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ESTJ
PS- anyone know the correct way the heat shields are supposed to go in? Thanks again.
I can take pictures of the way they are in on mine, if that will help.

Also if you take pictures of your DIY, please post them here.[/quote]

It sure will- if you can. thanks- check your PM.
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 08:48 PM
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2001 E55 AMG - 2001 E320 - 1990 300CE
Drivers Side Pic

Here are the pics!
Attached Thumbnails w210 Motor Mounts-drivers-mount.jpg   w210 Motor Mounts-passenger-mount.jpg  
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ESTJ
Here are the pics!
AWESOME- thanks. Before I catch *****- I thank the forum for the generosity of its members for their time and expertise.
Let 'er rip.
I followed the document - engine-mount-diy.pdf - and followed it step by step, and its time consuming but very accurate and detailed and more importantly- correct- I think authored by G-AMG. Finally done- and its smooth as butter- what a difference. Thanks all.

Last edited by 9918939; Jan 9, 2012 at 11:23 PM.
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 08:40 PM
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2001 E55 AMG - 2001 E320 - 1990 300CE
Done! Drives like new!

Okay, finished the job. The link above is terrific for DIY. One suggestion, instead of disconnecting the battery, just cover the starter terminals with some good old duct tape until you are finished.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
One other bit of advice: get a stubby 16mm wrench and a ratchet 16mm wrench. I was able to use the ratchet wrench with a pry (wrecking) bar to break and tighten those top bolts (pita and the worst part of the job) and the stubby for the rest of unloosening those stubborn bolts. I also advise loosening the transmission mount while jacking up the engine.<o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
All in all, not an easy job but doable and I am just an ordinary wrench. <o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
Special thanks to 9918939 for sharing his experience via PM.<o:p></o:p>

You can do this and save yourself $600.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 07:54 AM
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2002 E320 base sedan, RWD, bone stock
Old and new motor mounts

Pics of both worn motor mounts and a new Autohasz motor mount on the far right. On to the transmission flush next.
Attached Thumbnails w210 Motor Mounts-img_1479.jpg  
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 08:11 AM
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From: Raleigh, NC
2001 E55 AMG - 2001 E320 - 1990 300CE
Originally Posted by 9918939
Pi On to the transmission flush next.
I shared my experience:

https://mbworld.org/forums/w210-amg/...questions.html

One thing important here is this:

Before you start, use your dipstick to measure you existing fluid both at 25C and at 80C. That way you have some assurances that you are putting the correct amount of fluid back into the transmission.

When topping off the new fluid, take your time, slow as you go, little by little.

Last edited by ESTJ; Jan 24, 2012 at 08:18 AM.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 08:17 AM
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One other thing, use the MB transmission pan seal, don't go cheap here! This will save you time later.
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 11:45 AM
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Can anyone tell me what is the service life of the mounts? Ny car has 130,000 klm on it. I do have a vibration but cant pin point it. At 70 klm hr or 45 mph. Should I look at replacing as preventative Maint or are the good for much longer than 130K?
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by CHolmes
Can anyone tell me what is the service life of the mounts? Ny car has 130,000 klm on it. I do have a vibration but cant pin point it. At 70 klm hr or 45 mph. Should I look at replacing as preventative Maint or are the good for much longer than 130K?
Don't know about your situation- but with my car, there was a vibration at a stop light until takeoff - very pronounced. Didn't notice the vibration once underway. However do a search in this forum- you'll find your answers.
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by CHolmes
Can anyone tell me what is the service life of the mounts? Ny car has 130,000 klm on it. I do have a vibration but cant pin point it. At 70 klm hr or 45 mph. Should I look at replacing as preventative Maint or are the good for much longer than 130K?
The symptoms of a bad MM are pretty obvious. With the car in gear, stopped at a light you will feel definite vibration in the steering wheel. Putting the car in neutral or raising the rpms eliminates all or most of the vibration. Usually one MM fails first. There is no recommended service cycle but at 130K you might consider replacing them if the cost isn't a problem and you want the smoothest idle possible.
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 09:57 PM
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Both motor mounts were bad on my E55 when I bought it. It had a lot of vibration while stopped in gear or creeping in a parking lot. I didn't have any vibration from then once it was moving over 5mph.
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 04:51 PM
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Just an FYI for anyone changing the MM io a W210. Before removing each mount make a mark on the side. At the bench orient the old and new MM in the same direction and transfer the mark to the new mount. The top of the MM has a 'key way' for the heat shield so use the mark to position the MM and heat shield.
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