E300 Not charging properly
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W210 E300D
E300 Not charging properly
I've had a problem with the car having trouble starting when it's really cold, which I found odd, since I replaced the battery in May with a reconditioned one, a couple of weeks after it wouldn't start without a boost, so I replaced the battery under warranty and started paying closer attention to the voltage which would drop to 11.xx after starting the car the slowly crawl back to 12.5-12.9 and topping out at 13.1 if the car was revved, according to the AAC display which is about 0.5 to 0.6 Volts off making my real Max voltage about 13.7V.
So I got a replacement alternator the voltage is a little better now but still very low it's around 11.8 after starting then hovers around 12.6-12.9 and never goes over 13.1 even at highway speed(still measured by the AAC display), I double checked the voltage at ther jump-start point under the hood and alternator bolt, most I ever got was 13.8 which is still rather low for a brand new alternator any ideas???
Blue wire to the alternator seems fine btw and jumping it with a light bulb has no effect on the voltage.
I need to know by Monday if there's anything else I can check, because that would be the last day to return the alternator.
Thank You.
So I got a replacement alternator the voltage is a little better now but still very low it's around 11.8 after starting then hovers around 12.6-12.9 and never goes over 13.1 even at highway speed(still measured by the AAC display), I double checked the voltage at ther jump-start point under the hood and alternator bolt, most I ever got was 13.8 which is still rather low for a brand new alternator any ideas???
Blue wire to the alternator seems fine btw and jumping it with a light bulb has no effect on the voltage.
I need to know by Monday if there's anything else I can check, because that would be the last day to return the alternator.
Thank You.
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10 speed bicycle
Just checking the voltage is not an effective test to check the alternator. You need to measure the current output. Also to check the wiring you would have to measure voltage drop, no more than 1/10 a volt drop per foot.
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W210 E300D
So I should measure the voltage all the way back at the battery to make sure it gets there? cause my main concern is the initial drop below 12V after starting the car and it taking a really long time to raise back, also with old battery(dying out) and old alternator the voltage would drop even lower(to the point when ETS ABS and over warning lights would come on) and would not raise unless the vehicle was revved to 1500-2000 rpm, would this be indicative of a wiring problem?
I also never got the 'Check the Battery' or Charge or whatever that warning is, on my dash, regardless of the voltage...
I also never got the 'Check the Battery' or Charge or whatever that warning is, on my dash, regardless of the voltage...
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It is possible, but you need to start basic, I think autozone has an alternator tester. You shod be at least 80 amps+ at 13.5v+ at 2000rpm. Alternator testing is done at 2000rpm. You must make sure to load the electrical system with the tool. I think sears will check your alternator also.
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
Check static output
at the battery with no load after charging fully overnight on a 10amp charger. Then check again running after applying a load(turn on the headlights)
My suspicion is that it is the reconditioned battery. They clean up old batteries and might throw in some acid and water at most they are a joke.
The load test the member suggested above can be done with a multimeter and you load or a battery shop or auto electric shop hooks up the load tester to the battery and cranks up the load.
11-12 volts is either a bad battery or the charging system needs to be sorted out.
Me thinks Battery
My suspicion is that it is the reconditioned battery. They clean up old batteries and might throw in some acid and water at most they are a joke.
The load test the member suggested above can be done with a multimeter and you load or a battery shop or auto electric shop hooks up the load tester to the battery and cranks up the load.
11-12 volts is either a bad battery or the charging system needs to be sorted out.
Me thinks Battery
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W210 E300D
The only reason I don't like the battery theory, is that even if we assume that a fresh reconditioned battery is bad, shouldn't the alternator give out 14V all the same, at least at highway speeds?
I'm only speaking from mu experience with my over vehicle a 90 Jeep YJ which also has a recon battery, and is equipped with a factory volt meter, under heavy load(when winching for example, a load of up to 300Amps) the voltage could drop as low as 9-10v, but as soon as the load is gone and the vehicle is revved even just a bit it happily jumps back into the 13-14V range and stays there even at idle...
I'm only speaking from mu experience with my over vehicle a 90 Jeep YJ which also has a recon battery, and is equipped with a factory volt meter, under heavy load(when winching for example, a load of up to 300Amps) the voltage could drop as low as 9-10v, but as soon as the load is gone and the vehicle is revved even just a bit it happily jumps back into the 13-14V range and stays there even at idle...
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
You haven't
load tested the system.
You have no alternator light glowing.
Get out the multimeter or get to a load tester.
It starts/ runs with a jump still indicates battery.
Autozone per tech above can test diode condition alternator charging for free.
You have no alternator light glowing.
Get out the multimeter or get to a load tester.
It starts/ runs with a jump still indicates battery.
Autozone per tech above can test diode condition alternator charging for free.
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W210 E300D
Just took a car for a trip after starting voltage drops to upper 10.xx, at highway speeds went at stayed at 13.1(always according to the climate control, left my multi-meter at work) after shutting down the car I turn the ignition back on and checked the voltage on the climate control - 11v.
Seems to be a bad battery after all, if it is the case how long can I drive on it without incurring any damage to the car's electronics and/or alternator, because I'm really not in the mood of buying another one so soon, and getting another replacement recon seems like a waste of time...
Thanks for all the replies btw.
Seems to be a bad battery after all, if it is the case how long can I drive on it without incurring any damage to the car's electronics and/or alternator, because I'm really not in the mood of buying another one so soon, and getting another replacement recon seems like a waste of time...
Thanks for all the replies btw.
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
If the battery
is only holding 12.1 volts or below it is considered dead as a door nail. you won't be starting soon if so.
Locate an interstate battery main outlet if you have one nearby and ask for the correct group size vented battery blemished. They are not reconditioned but cost lots less then new. Nothing wrong with them at all. Or costco carries the correct ones with an unbeatable warranty.
If you have a 10 amp charger charge overnight and see if it holds the charge and what charge it has. should be close to 12.8 volts or so just sitting there.
Charge at the post or at the battery but make sure the key is out of the ignition.
Locate an interstate battery main outlet if you have one nearby and ask for the correct group size vented battery blemished. They are not reconditioned but cost lots less then new. Nothing wrong with them at all. Or costco carries the correct ones with an unbeatable warranty.
If you have a 10 amp charger charge overnight and see if it holds the charge and what charge it has. should be close to 12.8 volts or so just sitting there.
Charge at the post or at the battery but make sure the key is out of the ignition.
Last edited by ohlord; Jan 8, 2012 at 09:09 PM.
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W210 E300D
k, seems relying on the on-board voltage meter was a very bad idea...
Voltage at the jump-start terminal with car off - 12.5V
With starter cranking 9.8-10.2V
With car running after the voltage stabilizes 13. 8-14.1V
So it seems that everything is more or less within specs except cranking voltage witch I attribute to the recon battery not being as strong as the original, although I would like to see someone check their initial voltage drop on a diesel at around -5*C or 26*F, cause those glow plugs and 15w40 oil certainly don't help.
Now the only thing I noticed is under load(Headlights + Blower full blast) at idle there's a difference of 0.2V between the Alternator terminal voltage(13.8x) and Jump-start terminal voltage(13.6x). Should I consider replacing the wire or is that an acceptable loss?
I also seem to loose about 0.1V between Jump-start and interior(cigarette lighter plug)
Thanks for all the help so far.
Voltage at the jump-start terminal with car off - 12.5V
With starter cranking 9.8-10.2V
With car running after the voltage stabilizes 13. 8-14.1V
So it seems that everything is more or less within specs except cranking voltage witch I attribute to the recon battery not being as strong as the original, although I would like to see someone check their initial voltage drop on a diesel at around -5*C or 26*F, cause those glow plugs and 15w40 oil certainly don't help.
Now the only thing I noticed is under load(Headlights + Blower full blast) at idle there's a difference of 0.2V between the Alternator terminal voltage(13.8x) and Jump-start terminal voltage(13.6x). Should I consider replacing the wire or is that an acceptable loss?
I also seem to loose about 0.1V between Jump-start and interior(cigarette lighter plug)
Thanks for all the help so far.
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300E a couple 1994 w124wagon E320 Wagon/,1971MGB Track/Rally, MG Midget Autocross ,2000 E320 wagon.
Agood
battery of the proper CCA for the car(mb about 850 cca)
should only have max about .5v drop when cranking.
Just installed a brand new battery in the little 1994 w124 wagon I picked up recently and it showed full voltage and did not budge the needle on the load tester when full cranked up.
The old battery that was tested dropped the needle like a rock.
You need to get a new battery.proper cca,otherwise with a drop below 10v under load you are eventually gouing to fry some wires,fry the starter,in some cases fry the car.
15w40 and 26f won't make a hill of beans v.s. a group 49 850cca or mtp93 850cca.
should only have max about .5v drop when cranking.
Just installed a brand new battery in the little 1994 w124 wagon I picked up recently and it showed full voltage and did not budge the needle on the load tester when full cranked up.
The old battery that was tested dropped the needle like a rock.
You need to get a new battery.proper cca,otherwise with a drop below 10v under load you are eventually gouing to fry some wires,fry the starter,in some cases fry the car.
15w40 and 26f won't make a hill of beans v.s. a group 49 850cca or mtp93 850cca.
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W210 E300D
Thanks to everybody who helped me out originally.
My battery is dying again, the alternator has been changed, now my choices are:
1. Get another rebuilt under warranty, for FREE
2. Buy a new one from them(Interstate)
3. Buy one from Wall-Mart(Energiser) which I would prefer as it is much easier to deal with them then with Interstate(I have a Wall-Mart next to my job)
Now, since the Alternator has been replaced he voltage is no longer an issue, so I blame winter and my short commute for my misfortunes. My daily drive is 5km(~3mi) to work and then back which I suspect does not give enough time for the battery to recharge. What are your thoughts on that, and what can I do to address the issue in the future, aside from trying to take the car on longer trips during the week-end.
My battery is dying again, the alternator has been changed, now my choices are:
1. Get another rebuilt under warranty, for FREE
2. Buy a new one from them(Interstate)
3. Buy one from Wall-Mart(Energiser) which I would prefer as it is much easier to deal with them then with Interstate(I have a Wall-Mart next to my job)
Now, since the Alternator has been replaced he voltage is no longer an issue, so I blame winter and my short commute for my misfortunes. My daily drive is 5km(~3mi) to work and then back which I suspect does not give enough time for the battery to recharge. What are your thoughts on that, and what can I do to address the issue in the future, aside from trying to take the car on longer trips during the week-end.
