E-Class (W210) 1995-2002: E 200, E 220D, E 240, E 290TD, E 300TD, E 200, E 240, E 280, E 320, E 420, E 430 (Wagon, Touring, 4Matic)

1995 E200 starts but does not crank

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Old Dec 14, 2012 | 04:41 AM
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1995 E200 automatic W210
1995 E200 starts but does not crank

Good morning gents,

Here is the issue: As the cold weather came, the car would not crank anymore. Had this issue last winter, and I did bypass the starter relay, mounting another start button which takes + 12 V from the radioset and gets it directly to the starter's relay. Also, the green and red lights from the central mirror are flashing alternately 10-20 seconds after the car starts running.
I was thinking that the alarm has something wrong as long as it blocked the cranking. Regarding the alarm, since I've got the car (20.000 km ago) I can only start the car after depresing the key twice (close & open the doors) if the red LED on the dashboard gets on (shortly after the initial door opening).

If somebody encountered this issue, please give me a clue, it is bothering alot.

Thank you for your time

Stefan
1995 E200 automatic, 111.942

ps. have changed key's batery

Last edited by The Pilgrim; Dec 14, 2012 at 11:53 AM. Reason: incomplete
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Old Dec 14, 2012 | 01:04 PM
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I am an engineer, you should look into my eyes to understand. Sorry, I'll put it other way: I did not fix the cause, but instead, like an alopat medicine, I have fixed only the effect. I can start the car, but not with the key, and the alarm / I guess / is behaving abnormal. Imagine you're riding a Christmas tree..
Soo, I want to make the car act normal, to be able to be ignited with the key, not a bus buton .
Hope I made myself clear.
And thank you for taking time to answer.

Stefan

Last edited by The Pilgrim; Dec 14, 2012 at 01:07 PM. Reason: incomplete
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Old Dec 14, 2012 | 02:56 PM
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Sort of, I do jump over the preglow moment (being gasoline), put the key in pos 2, wait for alarm's red LEd to turn off and push the button. Then it starts right away.
I mean the bendix relay, on the starter. Actualy I can spin the engine with key in pos. 1 (as long the radio gets 12V).
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Old Dec 15, 2012 | 12:22 AM
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Good morning Plutoe,
vin is WDB2100351A005364
it looks like DAS authorize the start procedure, because I do start my car. So, maybe the chance is only the alarm's starting protection is bypassed.

As I recall, the diesel should be 2200cc, don't it?

Have a perfect day.

Stefan
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Old Dec 15, 2012 | 09:58 AM
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He said he has green/red leds in the mirror, i think he has the metal key with remote lock/unlok, not IFZ

Fabio Daniel
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Old Dec 15, 2012 | 02:03 PM
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Good evening,

Originally Posted by Plutoe
Good afternoon,

Things are still confusing, ? you did provide the VIN, yet you say you drive a 1995 E200 Yes, engine 111.942. I could not check the datacard therefore additionally confused as to whether you have the electronic key or metal key---yet your first post said you changed key batteries--- I did change them once. Key is metalic, resembles a swiss knife.

With all the confusion I am assuming you have the EIS(electronic key). That being he case the DAS is checked twice.
First when you put key in---if ok the steering lock is released. I feel like the release is mecanic, clasic style.
Second when you move to position 2-the key info is checked with the key data in the ECU---if ok the car is released for starting with a CAN message to the K40

The only fuse in the DAS circuit is fuse 9

Although I have not sen the car, this is my leap of faith diagnosis.

Check fuse 9!!

Hopefully you have not changed the ECU!! No way

When you put the key in---the steering lock is released and you can move the key

You can then move the key to the starting position----the starter(K40)relay is energized, but the car does not start.

It does not start because the either the ECU was not energized oh yes, it is energized, car starts imediately when the bus button is depresed. or the ECU does not send a CAN message that the DAS is correct. In these cases there is a fault but it is a B type(non EUR) fault that will not light up the dash. I do not know even if this year has a CEL light, never seen it on the dasboard. Carsoft told me about some codes, but never a CEL light.

The only way I know how you could possibly check all this is via the MB diagnostic system DAS Xentry go to and indy and have him do a quick test and all the faults will be apparent----it is either bad wiring, fuse or the EIS or EUC are faulty.

That is my take. Good Luck
Thank you alot for your try. Perhaps my car is too old for your technical data library. Thank you once again.

Yours, Stefan
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Old Dec 15, 2012 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Fabio D
He said he has green/red leds in the mirror, i think he has the metal key with remote lock/unlok, not IFZ

Fabio Daniel
You're right, metal key.
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Old Dec 15, 2012 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by The Pilgrim
You're right, metal key.
Ok, new start. I have the same issue with a friend's car in owr shop some time ago (is an: E320 / M104 / Metal key / Red-green leds), i solve this problem replacing the transmition electrical wiring harness (i know the trans wire not have any in common with the alarm system) but i find a full cracked wires in aaaalll the trans harness, just check if yours are fine or not. they cut the start signal when crack and make shortcircuit with the other wires and the P or N possition is not recognized unautorizing the start.

I'm not 100% sure the problem in your car is this, but is just a point. I experiment the exactly same issue with the mirror leds and no stat.

Just check and i hope you can solve the issue

Fabio Daniel
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 08:27 AM
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Just coming in totally from left field: wouldn't the K40 relay be the primary suspect here? All authorizations seem OK, just no starting juice. Plus, it started in cold weather, which agrees with the typical solder crack failures of the K40.
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 09:46 AM
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1995 E200 automatic W210
Originally Posted by Hirnbeiss
Just coming in totally from left field: wouldn't the K40 relay be the primary suspect here? If K40 quits, would then the engine start with the before mentioned bypass? Perhaps I do not realize yet the whole role of K40.. All authorizations seem OK, just no starting juice. Plus, it started in cold weather, which agrees with the typical solder crack failures of the K40.
Thanks
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