Flat key won't work
11-25-2015, 11:56 AM
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W210 1997 e420
Flat key won't work
Hello,
I'm looking for any insight and suggestions on how to get past this problem.
I recently bought this 1997 MB e420 w210 and lost the only key I was given pretty quick. I finally got around to getting a replacement key made and sent to my MB dealership all the way from Texas. At first the key didn't work at all. It wouldn't go into the ignition at all but it still unlocked the doors without a problem. Then I went back to the ignition and it went in. But the problem now is that the steering wheel is locked as well as the key won't turn and I haven't been able to get past this problem. (Sorry if I'm being a bit unorganized with this thread). Also, the replacement key I got is the flat key which the dealership called the master key. I found it in the owners manual and it does say that this key should work. The flat key apparently does have the necessary chip inside of it. Does anybody have any experience with this problem or anything similar? I was thinking technically speaking due to me having the key and of course ownership of the car that I can Hotwire it and just keep the chip near the ring in order for the car to start but then I would have to get past the steering wheel lock. Which I did see another thread about on how to solve.
Would unlocking the steering wheel with a drill also unlock my ignition?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I'm looking for any insight and suggestions on how to get past this problem.
I recently bought this 1997 MB e420 w210 and lost the only key I was given pretty quick. I finally got around to getting a replacement key made and sent to my MB dealership all the way from Texas. At first the key didn't work at all. It wouldn't go into the ignition at all but it still unlocked the doors without a problem. Then I went back to the ignition and it went in. But the problem now is that the steering wheel is locked as well as the key won't turn and I haven't been able to get past this problem. (Sorry if I'm being a bit unorganized with this thread). Also, the replacement key I got is the flat key which the dealership called the master key. I found it in the owners manual and it does say that this key should work. The flat key apparently does have the necessary chip inside of it. Does anybody have any experience with this problem or anything similar? I was thinking technically speaking due to me having the key and of course ownership of the car that I can Hotwire it and just keep the chip near the ring in order for the car to start but then I would have to get past the steering wheel lock. Which I did see another thread about on how to solve.
Would unlocking the steering wheel with a drill also unlock my ignition?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
11-25-2015, 10:57 PM
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Knowing country of origin would help as those years had different options on different markets.
Assuming you are in US, the 1997 model had blade or switch-blade key AND immobilizer chip in it.
Also to main keys you'd have door remote attached.
Those keys need to be user-synchronized and you should have instruction in manual.
Rule of thumb says that if you leave the key in the ignition turned on for 1/2 hr it should start.
Assuming you are in US, the 1997 model had blade or switch-blade key AND immobilizer chip in it.
Also to main keys you'd have door remote attached.
Those keys need to be user-synchronized and you should have instruction in manual.
Rule of thumb says that if you leave the key in the ignition turned on for 1/2 hr it should start.
11-26-2015, 09:55 PM
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W210 1997 e420
11-26-2015, 09:59 PM
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W210 1997 e420
Knowing country of origin would help as those years had different options on different markets.
Assuming you are in US, the 1997 model had blade or switch-blade key AND immobilizer chip in it.
Also to main keys you'd have door remote attached.
Those keys need to be user-synchronized and you should have instruction in manual.
Rule of thumb says that if you leave the key in the ignition turned on for 1/2 hr it should start.
Assuming you are in US, the 1997 model had blade or switch-blade key AND immobilizer chip in it.
Also to main keys you'd have door remote attached.
Those keys need to be user-synchronized and you should have instruction in manual.
Rule of thumb says that if you leave the key in the ignition turned on for 1/2 hr it should start.
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11-28-2015, 11:49 AM
#8
In the U.S. the flat key does not require any type of synchronization. It should work if the steering lock is not in a bind. You may have a problem with the tumbler, but I would reinsert, wiggle everything, and repeat. The key needs to turn to be able to remove the tumbler.
11-29-2015, 11:53 AM
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
nelbur is right about the blade key.
re-reading topic again, I catch that the blade will not turn the ignition, while it will turn door locks?
That has to be the tumbler and it is "kind" of normal that key cut by computer to original specification is hard to turn on worn tumbler.
The immobilizing chip would still let the tumbler turn, but it would kill the engine after start and that require synchronization on older models.
Old remedy for turning worn tumbler is using vibrator touching the column.
No need to steal one from DW - a jig saw does the same job.
re-reading topic again, I catch that the blade will not turn the ignition, while it will turn door locks?
That has to be the tumbler and it is "kind" of normal that key cut by computer to original specification is hard to turn on worn tumbler.
The immobilizing chip would still let the tumbler turn, but it would kill the engine after start and that require synchronization on older models.
Old remedy for turning worn tumbler is using vibrator touching the column.
No need to steal one from DW - a jig saw does the same job.
Last edited by kajtek1; 11-29-2015 at 11:59 AM.
11-29-2015, 05:14 PM
#10
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nelbur is right about the blade key.
re-reading topic again, I catch that the blade will not turn the ignition, while it will turn door locks?
That has to be the tumbler and it is "kind" of normal that key cut by computer to original specification is hard to turn on worn tumbler.
The immobilizing chip would still let the tumbler turn, but it would kill the engine after start and that require synchronization on older models.
Old remedy for turning worn tumbler is using vibrator touching the column.
No need to steal one from DW - a jig saw does the same job.
re-reading topic again, I catch that the blade will not turn the ignition, while it will turn door locks?
That has to be the tumbler and it is "kind" of normal that key cut by computer to original specification is hard to turn on worn tumbler.
The immobilizing chip would still let the tumbler turn, but it would kill the engine after start and that require synchronization on older models.
Old remedy for turning worn tumbler is using vibrator touching the column.
No need to steal one from DW - a jig saw does the same job.
12-02-2015, 04:22 PM
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
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