2001 E430 - AC not cold (only blow hot air)
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
2001 E430 - AC not cold (only blow hot air)
I have checked the following:
(1) All sensors data seems to be correct.
(2) No error code can be found.
(3) At least 2 lb. refrigerant available in the system.
(4) Compressor and clutch up and running.
*Will a faulty relay switches can cause AC not cold??
Is there a difference between "AC Compressor Relay" and "A/C Clutch Relay" or they are the exact same thing?
** Where can I locate the relay(s) and where can I buy a new one?
Thanks so much for your time and advice!!
(1) All sensors data seems to be correct.
(2) No error code can be found.
(3) At least 2 lb. refrigerant available in the system.
(4) Compressor and clutch up and running.
*Will a faulty relay switches can cause AC not cold??
Is there a difference between "AC Compressor Relay" and "A/C Clutch Relay" or they are the exact same thing?
** Where can I locate the relay(s) and where can I buy a new one?
Thanks so much for your time and advice!!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Yes, the engine/radiator cooling fan running just fine (single large fan)
but I don't see twin Auxiliary AC fans are running - assembly to the A/C Condenser (dual small fan?) I could be wrong. Thank you!!
but I don't see twin Auxiliary AC fans are running - assembly to the A/C Condenser (dual small fan?) I could be wrong. Thank you!!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 9,224
Likes: 1,798
From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
How do you know you have 2lb in the system?
Do sensors #1-8 readout once in the morning before starting car, 2nd a minute after restarting car with hot cabin and post the numbers here.
Do sensors #1-8 readout once in the morning before starting car, 2nd a minute after restarting car with hot cabin and post the numbers here.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Thank you All!!
I really appreciates your inputs!!!
First data from 4/22:
(1) = 67
(2) = 58
(3) = 82
(4) = 82
(5) = 64
(6) = 118
(7) = 04
(8) = 64
The most recent data are:
(1) = 91
(2) = 84
(3) = 98
(4) = 98
(5) = 93
(6) = 163 quickly jumped to 216
(7) = 08
(8) = 100
BTW, the r134a refrigerant was fully recharged by the repair shop then I had another mechanic from a different repair shop to double checked.
I really appreciates your inputs!!!
First data from 4/22:
(1) = 67
(2) = 58
(3) = 82
(4) = 82
(5) = 64
(6) = 118
(7) = 04
(8) = 64
The most recent data are:
(1) = 91
(2) = 84
(3) = 98
(4) = 98
(5) = 93
(6) = 163 quickly jumped to 216
(7) = 08
(8) = 100
BTW, the r134a refrigerant was fully recharged by the repair shop then I had another mechanic from a different repair shop to double checked.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 9,224
Likes: 1,798
From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
We need to know the circumstances to draw any conclusion.
Was the engine running in first readouts?
Now why the engine temp quickly jumped to 216 ?
Are you having engine overheating problem? That would kill AC
Was the engine running in first readouts?
Now why the engine temp quickly jumped to 216 ?
Are you having engine overheating problem? That would kill AC
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
*The latest sensors data - 4/29
(when engine is cold and not running)
(1) 80
(2) 57
(3) 73
(4) 73
(5) 69
(6) 66
(7) 03
(8) 60
(after engine up and running for about 10 minutes)
(1) 73
(2) 60
(3) 73
(4) 73
(5) 71
(6) 182
(7) 04
(8) 64
*I hate to spend another $700 to $900 to replace the compressor on a car that only worth about $4,000. (I already spend more than $2,000 on repair - this year alone) ouch!! I fixed one thing then another thing broke. If I knew I ended up spending $2,000 plus I would just sell the car!
(when engine is cold and not running)
(1) 80
(2) 57
(3) 73
(4) 73
(5) 69
(6) 66
(7) 03
(8) 60
(after engine up and running for about 10 minutes)
(1) 73
(2) 60
(3) 73
(4) 73
(5) 71
(6) 182
(7) 04
(8) 64
*I hate to spend another $700 to $900 to replace the compressor on a car that only worth about $4,000. (I already spend more than $2,000 on repair - this year alone) ouch!! I fixed one thing then another thing broke. If I knew I ended up spending $2,000 plus I would just sell the car!
MB World Stories
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Manual Mercedes? 6 Times Sindelfingen Let Drivers Have All The Fun
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Verdad Gallardo
8 Classic Boxy Mercedes Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
Flawlessly Restored Mercedes 190E Evo II Heads to Auction
Verdad Gallardo
Electric Mercedes C-Class Unveiled: 11 Things You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes EQS Gets A Major Update: Everything You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
5 Underrated Mercedes-Benz Models That Don't Get the Love They Deserve
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes 300D Has Pushed Well Past 1 Million Miles and It Ain't Stopping
Verdad Gallardo
10 Most Reliable Mercedes-Benz Models You Can Buy Used
Verdad Gallardo
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 6,130
Likes: 1,117
A gaggle of MB's
You have lost refridgerant - whether thru a leak in the system - or a blown compressor.
A leak test with UV dye will show if compressor or leak.
If the compressor is shot - a remanufacturud replacement w/parts you need is under $200 to get back up and running:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-E30...5oROgw&vxp=mtr
However, the system will need to be evac'd and no leaks/hold-vacuum after compressor replacement to assure no other leaks.
Keep the beat !
A leak test with UV dye will show if compressor or leak.
If the compressor is shot - a remanufacturud replacement w/parts you need is under $200 to get back up and running:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-E30...5oROgw&vxp=mtr
However, the system will need to be evac'd and no leaks/hold-vacuum after compressor replacement to assure no other leaks.
Keep the beat !
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
(when engine is cold and not running)
(1) 80
(2) 57
(3) 73
(4) 73
(5) 69
(6) 66
(7) 03
(8) 60
(after engine up and running for about 10 minutes)
(1) 73
(2) 60
(3) 73
(4) 73
(5) 71
(6) 182
(7) 04
(8) 64
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 9,224
Likes: 1,798
From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Can you explain how on morning with 57F your cabin had 80F ?
You are definitely low on refrigerant and it seems even lower than first readout.
Add a can of R134 with dye and nothing else.
You are definitely low on refrigerant and it seems even lower than first readout.
Add a can of R134 with dye and nothing else.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 9,224
Likes: 1,798
From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Evidently you are not a morning person 
Keep us posting how the new can of refrigerant works for you?
Good idea would be display pressure #7 when you drive on hot day and observe how it changes over the time.
Keep us posting how the new can of refrigerant works for you?
Good idea would be display pressure #7 when you drive on hot day and observe how it changes over the time.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Yes, I bought one 18 OZ EZ Chill Auto Air Conditioning Refrigerant Plus Oil With Charging Hose & Gauge. Unfortunately, the pressure was in the RED zone which indicated there was no room to add any more R134a. I'm really confused now..
BTW, the highest number on # 7 is "8" since day one.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 9,224
Likes: 1,798
From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
First I said R134, dye and nothing else. The conditioning can has sealers and lot of other garbage that can do more harm than good.
Than if you used can gauge, you have seen can pressure, not system pressure. With compressor running the car has to take the can of stuff.
Than if you used can gauge, you have seen can pressure, not system pressure. With compressor running the car has to take the can of stuff.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
* I'm not give up yet!!
I just bought "R134a, R410a AC Manifold Gauge" from eBay so I can check both of my car A/C and my home A/C pressures myself at any time
!!>http://www.ebay.com/itm/152077974475?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITYouTube video on how to check Automotive A/C Pressures >
I have also purchased "A/C PRO GBM-4 R-134a Air Conditioning Pro Heavy Duty Charging Hose and Gauge" from Amazon >
Amazon.com: A/C PRO GBM-4 R-134a Air Conditioning Pro Heavy Duty Charging Hose and Gauge: Automotive
YouTube videos>
and Supco ST01 Stainless Steel Pocket Dial Thermometer 5" from eBay >
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151835518905?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Now I'm hoping all I need to do to fix my A/C problem is just to add some more refrigerant!!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 9,224
Likes: 1,798
From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
I have 2 of those manifold and don't know why I keep 3 other gauges that over the years I bought with cans, but never used the gauges on W210.
You have precise high pressure display on dashboard. as well as 5 thermometers, so why bother with harder to operate stuff?
You have precise high pressure display on dashboard. as well as 5 thermometers, so why bother with harder to operate stuff?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
I'm sorry, I'm not sure what do you mean by that...., could you please elaborate further?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 6,130
Likes: 1,117
A gaggle of MB's
I guess the point(s) are these:
1) A vacuum test before refill evac's all the bad juju - and hold at vacuum identifies if your system can hold pressure - with no leaks or with minor leak - or if the system has major leak and won't hold pressure all all
2) A dye test identifies the source of the leak for repair
3) The after leak-repair - back to vacuum for evac and hold test before refill
1) A vacuum test before refill evac's all the bad juju - and hold at vacuum identifies if your system can hold pressure - with no leaks or with minor leak - or if the system has major leak and won't hold pressure all all
2) A dye test identifies the source of the leak for repair
3) The after leak-repair - back to vacuum for evac and hold test before refill
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 9,224
Likes: 1,798
From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Same with left core thermometer, right core thermometer and evaporator thermometer.
If you have any remaining pressure (you should hear it) no need for vacuuming.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Very strange, the reading on both LOW side & HIGH side are 80 PSI? AC compressor was up and running, temperature around 74.
Is there an explanation for why the low-side gauge is showing so much pressure?
Is there an explanation for why the low-side gauge is showing so much pressure?
