Need Help Electrical Gremlins! Need Diagnosing Tool Help
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
2001 E430 Sport
Need Help Electrical Gremlins! Need Diagnosing Tool Help
Hi All,
2001 E430 sport 167,000 mi.
Rather than search for posts for the following Electrical issues, I simply need to know what tool I need to purchase to diagnose the following issues.
Head Lamps Stopped working intermittently now stopped working all the time. Not the bulbs
Passenger Side Brake Light intermittently now all the time in wet weather. Not the bulb
Reverse Lights stopped working. Not the bulb.
Low oil light stop engine intermittently when cold but not when hot. Oil it two clicks/notches from full. Oil is full.
Weak/dim light right turn signal and slightly delayed from hand controls.
Passenger Mirror reverse stopped working but the mirror is operational.
Intermittent engine light.
I Don't even know where to start. I know this car has bus that all of these modules run off of but have no idea how to tell what the problem is. If there is a website or book that I can buy that will explain how these systems work I can use that as an overlay. I'm also looking for advice on what equipment/diagnosis equipment I'll need to get started.
Also any additional info would be great. I'm an enthusiast and am very interested in getting her tip top..
2001 E430 sport 167,000 mi.
Rather than search for posts for the following Electrical issues, I simply need to know what tool I need to purchase to diagnose the following issues.
Head Lamps Stopped working intermittently now stopped working all the time. Not the bulbs
Passenger Side Brake Light intermittently now all the time in wet weather. Not the bulb
Reverse Lights stopped working. Not the bulb.
Low oil light stop engine intermittently when cold but not when hot. Oil it two clicks/notches from full. Oil is full.
Weak/dim light right turn signal and slightly delayed from hand controls.
Passenger Mirror reverse stopped working but the mirror is operational.
Intermittent engine light.
I Don't even know where to start. I know this car has bus that all of these modules run off of but have no idea how to tell what the problem is. If there is a website or book that I can buy that will explain how these systems work I can use that as an overlay. I'm also looking for advice on what equipment/diagnosis equipment I'll need to get started.
Also any additional info would be great. I'm an enthusiast and am very interested in getting her tip top..
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,939
Likes: 178
From: Seattle WA
99 E320
since all of those components you mentioned use electricity, i'd first check the primary
power supply, the car battery. take a measure of it at rest, as well as under load. report
back.
another thought is that you may have water entry into the critical and vulnerable section
beneath the rear seat. so may as well pop the seat and carefully feel, smell, look for
moisture.
bad ground. you'd have to gain access to a resource like MBUSA's WIS software (or
pay subscription with MBUSA) to identify where the ground points are located.
main light control/knob is known to fail
outside mirror in reverse: you didn't mention if the left/right selector knob is in the left
or right position (should be right button depressed)
power supply, the car battery. take a measure of it at rest, as well as under load. report
back.
another thought is that you may have water entry into the critical and vulnerable section
beneath the rear seat. so may as well pop the seat and carefully feel, smell, look for
moisture.
bad ground. you'd have to gain access to a resource like MBUSA's WIS software (or
pay subscription with MBUSA) to identify where the ground points are located.
main light control/knob is known to fail
outside mirror in reverse: you didn't mention if the left/right selector knob is in the left
or right position (should be right button depressed)
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
2001 E430 Sport
Thank you for getting back to me. The battery is new, however I haven't tested it.
I have checked for water underneath the passenger side rear and it is AOK.
I will check the main light control knob as well. For a while I had only one headlamp then no headlamps, then one again then none. So I'll check that as well.
I will look into bad ground as well. I'll have to look at the subscription cost. The shop up here is quoting 54.00 per half hour to chase it down, then parts and labor, so I'm pretty exposed to rape there.. hard to say okay when I have hardly any prior experience with them.
Not sure on outside mirror, but will test now.
In terms of the testing equipment, are we talking a volt meter? Any recommendations?
I have checked for water underneath the passenger side rear and it is AOK.
I will check the main light control knob as well. For a while I had only one headlamp then no headlamps, then one again then none. So I'll check that as well.
I will look into bad ground as well. I'll have to look at the subscription cost. The shop up here is quoting 54.00 per half hour to chase it down, then parts and labor, so I'm pretty exposed to rape there.. hard to say okay when I have hardly any prior experience with them.
Not sure on outside mirror, but will test now.
In terms of the testing equipment, are we talking a volt meter? Any recommendations?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,939
Likes: 178
From: Seattle WA
99 E320
www.ebay.com/itm/322229503645 is a clone, I'm told. i didn't know that at first and
purchased it. it has been working very well on my Intel 4790K Windows 7 desktop for
the past half year. does pretty much the same as the MBUSA subscription. operates
in virtual mode in the background which some people say exploits vulnerability
and may allow invasion. i don't know but wanted to mention it.
for the price, it has worked very well.
MBUSA
volt meter considerations is pretty easy, in my opinion. since we're only using
it for lightweight measures, 12 volts DC, or for continuity testing, I think that
even a $15 Harbor Freight unit should be fine depending on the settings. I
have one, but i also have a $100+ Fluke DVM . either works well with simple
auto electrics. maybe someone else will jump in with their opinion
purchased it. it has been working very well on my Intel 4790K Windows 7 desktop for
the past half year. does pretty much the same as the MBUSA subscription. operates
in virtual mode in the background which some people say exploits vulnerability
and may allow invasion. i don't know but wanted to mention it.
for the price, it has worked very well.
MBUSA
volt meter considerations is pretty easy, in my opinion. since we're only using
it for lightweight measures, 12 volts DC, or for continuity testing, I think that
even a $15 Harbor Freight unit should be fine depending on the settings. I
have one, but i also have a $100+ Fluke DVM . either works well with simple
auto electrics. maybe someone else will jump in with their opinion
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,494
Likes: 131
From: Cape town
not a merc
To be honest. You can buy all the tools and books you require but without the Technical know how, you will have a hard time trying to solve these issues. Pay an mb Indy and get it sorted. Before you cause more issues by doing things that can cause more damage. One Tip. Change your light switch and check further.
