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Hi folks. I have a MB W210 E300TD 1998. I have a strange problem when the engine is warm. When i put in N or P that it shake a littel, but if i put it on D or i turn the Climate Controll on the shake disapire... Its very strange... Pleas can you give me an idea what is going on on my MB... Thnx
I have checked motor mounts and they look good... There is no shake when i push the gas pedal (higher rpm)... its everythiing ok only in idle without AC...
I ditto MM.
They are very hard to judge unless you find the way to measure the height.
But those hydro MM are not long-lasting, so if in doubt - replace them.
But even the rpm move on dashboard when is in idel... they shake to... So i dont think there is any relation betwen motor mounts and the rpm on dashboard
There is no power loose, milk trace in the cooling system or black/blue smoke... I have just spoke with a mechanic and he say the is in the FIP (Fuel injection pump). He put the water outside the pump when engine was warm for about 10-15 min with engine on and the shake (rpm to) disapear... He say that i need to replace my whole fuel presure pump... Can i do something with the pump or my only posibility is to replace that part....
Those IP are bulletproof so chances that you need one are next to nothing.
Water running over leaky fuel lines will seal the miniature leaks as water is more dense than diesel and definitely more dense than air.
Find a mechanic who can actually find the problem or DIY.
Post the picture of your fuel tubings.
Some of fuel lines operate with vacuum, so leak means air in fuel, not like with gasoline fuel leaking outside.
Temperature and load affects the engine management, so it can make the difference how engine vibrate.
Still - get on the job and don't overthink the issue.
You need to check for air bubbles at high idle.
Anyway, your tubings are yellow/brown when they should be clear.
Your leak hose has bad cracks and shows wetness on it, what likely is diesel penetration.
Last time I check set of tubings run about $60 so not a big deal and you really need new lines. Also get new SOV oring.
Also get the grommet for booster vacuum pipe. If the pipe get cut, you will be for nasty surprise.