E-Class (W210) 1995-2002: E 200, E 220D, E 240, E 290TD, E 300TD, E 200, E 240, E 280, E 320, E 420, E 430 (Wagon, Touring, 4Matic)

How to replace Fuel Filler Door Lock Actuator W210 E430 1998

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Old Oct 20, 2020 | 03:59 PM
  #1  
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W210 E430 Sport
Question How to replace Fuel Filler Door Lock Actuator W210 E430 1998

Good Afternoon everyone:

My fuel door lock actuator is getting a little noisy when locking/unlocking - I picked up a OEM replacement Fuel Filler Door Lock Actuator P/N: 2108001175 at www.autohausaz.com for about $30 bucks.

I did a few searches and was unable to find any threads about how to replace it, I assume that you just have to remove some of the trunk liner on the passenger side to gain access - Does anyone have any tips on removing the liner to minimize damage?

Thank you,


My 1998 E430 Sport

The Fuel Door Lock Actuator P/N# 2108001175
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Old Oct 20, 2020 | 10:30 PM
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raymond g-'s Avatar
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I can actually see it in my trunk but hard to take a photo. I'm replacing the shocks and springs.

It isn't difficult. Just proceed with thought and care:
  • remove trunk liner bottom
  • remove black nylon push pins (kung fu grip of the pin or flat blade screwdriver). pops right out....leaving in place
  • the second part of the plastic push pin: the socket. it has a plastic serrated neck to grip the liner but also pops out with flat blade
  • I acutally have one of the body liner removal pliers - press handle to spread
  • there is a big liner tub which comprise most of the back trunk vertial portion
  • the TOP of the liner (beneath the rear deck) is attached via sheet metal hook/loop into a hole/slot in the trunk liner
  • the part you need to remove/also is the one behind the fuel filler door
  • the FUEL DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR is located in a recess aft of the fuel door

I have no experience swapping one out but it doesn't look difficult. BUT...the yellow vacuum hose does get a little brittle with age so use great care as you try to pry it off the actuator. if the hose fractures, there still should (should) be enough slack for you to amputate the split hose and reattach the main hose.




the liner is reasonablly sturdy and you'd have to really ham fist it to screw or damage it. industrial strength reinforced cardboard with fuzz
note that it seems to indicate 10 mins replacement


Last edited by raymond g-; Oct 20, 2020 at 10:34 PM.
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Old Oct 21, 2020 | 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by raymond g-
I can actually see it in my trunk but hard to take a photo. I'm replacing the shocks and springs.

It isn't difficult. Just proceed with thought and care:
  • remove trunk liner bottom
  • remove black nylon push pins (kung fu grip of the pin or flat blade screwdriver). pops right out....leaving in place
  • the second part of the plastic push pin: the socket. it has a plastic serrated neck to grip the liner but also pops out with flat blade
  • I acutally have one of the body liner removal pliers - press handle to spread
  • there is a big liner tub which comprise most of the back trunk vertial portion
  • the TOP of the liner (beneath the rear deck) is attached via sheet metal hook/loop into a hole/slot in the trunk liner
  • the part you need to remove/also is the one behind the fuel filler door
  • the FUEL DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR is located in a recess aft of the fuel door

I have no experience swapping one out but it doesn't look difficult. BUT...the yellow vacuum hose does get a little brittle with age so use great care as you try to pry it off the actuator. if the hose fractures, there still should (should) be enough slack for you to amputate the split hose and reattach the main hose.




the liner is reasonablly sturdy and you'd have to really ham fist it to screw or damage it. industrial strength reinforced cardboard with fuzz
note that it seems to indicate 10 mins replacement

Thank you for sharing all this knowledge Raymond!

Gonna purchase one of those body liner removal pliers on amazon - Thinking about this kit:
Body Liner Removal Kit Body Liner Removal Kit

I was also gonna order some replacement black nylon push pins and socket pins - Is there a specific MM size that is used more commonly on Mercedes? I found tons of kits like
this one this one
, but want to make sure I get plenty of the size most common to my Benz.

The consensus on the reviews for these fasteners is that they are not as flexible as the OEM ones, and are pretty brittle, so I want to make sure I have plenty of back-ups so I am not forced to spend a bunch more money at a local auto part house when I most likely break a few taking the car apart

Also, on the vacuum line yellow connection you mentioned, does that just pull off? and then just push onto a barb fitting on the actuator? I am at work and do not have the actuator in front of me.

Thank you again for all the information and schematics
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Old Oct 21, 2020 | 03:43 PM
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raymond g-'s Avatar
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my caliper indicates the female socket has an outer shaft of a shade over 8mm (8.3) so expansion once the male push pin is inserted
should expand it roughly 8.5< else it would not secure. These push pins seem pretty reusable. The ones which I've found more likely
to break or flall out of reach/sight into an unreachable crevice in the body frame are the space needle shaped ones which hold liners
to the metal bodywork inside doors, headliner

the car interior/liner plastic hardware and expander appears to be a good deal. i think I paid that much just for my expanding pliers
alone. I checked Harbor Freight and even they don't seem offer as competitive a package for the price.

The pneumatic hose should just pull off It has been 20 yrs so assume that you'll be treated with a suprise of some sort, be it breakage,
split, sticky, fused etc. If it turns out you don't have to improvise, great. Again, I've not had to remove the acuator hose, though I have
pulled it off the PSE pump, front seats (I have air bladders) and the door lock previously).



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Old Oct 21, 2020 | 03:46 PM
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Awesome, will get just the kit then - Thanks for the quick reply!
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Old Oct 22, 2020 | 12:06 PM
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raymond g-'s Avatar
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Considering how your experience may help someone in the future, think about taking a few photos and/or writing about
your successful swap out of the actuator. This helps improve the forum by adding DIY information for others to reference.
Good luck !
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Old Oct 22, 2020 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by raymond g-
Considering how your experience may help someone in the future, think about taking a few photos and/or writing about
your successful swap out of the actuator. This helps improve the forum by adding DIY information for others to reference.
Good luck !
Will do, hardest part is getting time to do it since I have 8 month old twins

Will take pics and write something up, is there a preferred way to share how to's?

Do you prefer to have images uploaded directly to the board like I did in my original post? Or do you like a photo gallery on imgur.com with descriptions under each photos?

Thank you
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Old Oct 22, 2020 | 07:05 PM
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raymond g-'s Avatar
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The choice of how to post photos is up to you. From a pragmatic perspective: if you upload the photos to MBWorld, the photos will be
on the site's server. If you host it on your own account/cloud (Imgur, photobucket, tinypic etc), if your account expires, the photos
disappear as MBWorld will no longer be able to link to them. This is why some threads have expired photos though the DIY instructions
remain. Te forum member still has the authority to delete or edit the photos whichever method they choose down the road.
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Old Oct 24, 2020 | 09:35 PM
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This fuel door lock requires occasional lubrication. I would try spray silicone on the pin to see if that makes it work more smoothly before you tear it out. Mine was frozen and silicone oil spray freed it up overnight.
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