W210 Wood and Polishing it
#1
W210 Wood and Polishing it
Does anyone know what type of wood is used in the W210 Wagon? I would like to built some panels and would like to try to match it. Also, does anyone have any tips on polishing insignificant but annoying scratches out of it?
Thanks
Robert
Thanks
Robert
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'84 911 Carrera & '01 E320
I'm pretty certain that it only looks like wood, therefore polishing out any scratches is probably not an option.
I suggest this because I had my center console apart enough to see the edge of the shift surround. It appears to be a laminated metal glued onto a plastic frame. The edge of the flip-up door on the ashtray also suggests it to be something other than wood.
I could be wrong... but I'm never in doubt.
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I suggest this because I had my center console apart enough to see the edge of the shift surround. It appears to be a laminated metal glued onto a plastic frame. The edge of the flip-up door on the ashtray also suggests it to be something other than wood.
I could be wrong... but I'm never in doubt.
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#3
From what I understand the type of wood used depends on the country you live. I believe The US uses Burlwood and Zebrano. It is real wood believe it or not. Not sure what you would use to polish though.
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209/W210 Estate /W211 modded by MBENZNL
Originally Posted by Elvis Presley
Does anyone know what type of wood is used in the W210 Wagon? I would like to built some panels and would like to try to match it. Also, does anyone have any tips on polishing insignificant but annoying scratches out of it?
Thanks
Robert
Thanks
Robert
Most W210s are Burl wood..Unless its a AMG E55 or 02 W210..They have Black Birds eye maple
I Use Meguiars Plastx for polishing out scratches on the wood..Works Great!
#7
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For cleaning,I use a damp micro towel.Polishing,I used P21s Carnuaba,fills scratches,and shines real nice,and lasts a long time.Buff out with micro towel also.
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2000 E320 4Matic Obsidian Black/Ash
it doesn't matter what you use, it's still going to crack after 2 yrs... The wood on my dashboard just cracked, a day after picking it up at the dealer for service. Of course before that was the console, and before that the cup cover....
You could use car wax, but make sure you dont get it on the rest of the interior.
You could use car wax, but make sure you dont get it on the rest of the interior.
#9
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Originally Posted by cobac
it doesn't matter what you use, it's still going to crack after 2 yrs... The wood on my dashboard just cracked, a day after picking it up at the dealer for service. Of course before that was the console, and before that the cup cover....
You could use car wax, but make sure you dont get it on the rest of the interior.
You could use car wax, but make sure you dont get it on the rest of the interior.
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1997 E320 2000 ML430
I am pretty sure Mercedes uses real wood veneer. The veneer itself is relatively thin. I am pretty sure the cracking we get is only in the thick lacquer finish. I only have one crack in my 97 and it happened last year. So this two year estimate for cracking is probably a bit extreme. I read somewhere on the web that the only way these cracks can be removed is a total refinish of the trim pieces. This would involve stripping the lacquer, color match stain if necessary and re-lacquer.
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'84 911 Carrera & '01 E320
Originally Posted by JLLG
...(snip) the only way these cracks can be removed is a total refinish of the trim pieces. This would involve stripping the lacquer, color match stain if necessary and re-lacquer.
1 - Less effort, as you simply throw out the old one.
2 - A guaranteed matching color finish as compared to the 'trial-and-error" method.
3 _ A guaranteed sheen finish (again as compared to the 'trial-and error" method.
I suppose if you were to remove and refinish all of the wood it wouldn't need to have the exact finish as OEM, but let me tell you.....
It will be extremely difficult for a consumer/DIY-type to obtain and apply a finish coat that is comparable in quality, durability, and finish to OEM.
Most of the available OTC (over the counter) products will not even come close to surviving the UV rays or temperature cycling that these parts endure. Temperatures inside a car can vary from 20 below 0°F in winter to over 140°F in summer.
I work at a high-end cabinet shop and I will not even attempt to refinish one of these parts myself. Aside from the finishing issues, the wood veneer itself (if it is even really wood) is paper-thin (less than 1/64th of an inch!) and removing the OEM clearcoat without damaging the veneer surface will prove troublesome if not impossible for most consumers.
If it is a really deep scratch, replace the part and take better care of it than what was offered to the original.
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2015 E250D
Originally Posted by JLLG
I am pretty sure Mercedes uses real wood veneer. The veneer itself is relatively thin. I am pretty sure the cracking we get is only in the thick lacquer finish. I only have one crack in my 97 and it happened last year. So this two year estimate for cracking is probably a bit extreme. I read somewhere on the web that the only way these cracks can be removed is a total refinish of the trim pieces. This would involve stripping the lacquer, color match stain if necessary and re-lacquer.
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1997 E320 2000 ML430
Check these links out about wood...
http://interior.articles.mbz.org/wood/
There are several more links on the web. I agree that most owner should not even attempt a refinish. One would just have to compare the costs of refinish versus new. Has anyone priced new wood trim pieces?
http://interior.articles.mbz.org/wood/
There are several more links on the web. I agree that most owner should not even attempt a refinish. One would just have to compare the costs of refinish versus new. Has anyone priced new wood trim pieces?