In addition to some annoying rattles and squeaks in a NEW E430, I started noticing a popping sound everytime I roll to a stop after cruising for at least 3 mins. It seems to come from the Fuel door area. Any ideas?

 

Your E430 is farting!

My 98 E430 had an annoying sound in that area a couple years back. I heard it when I acceled and brake. However, no sound when passenger sat on that side in rear. I removed everything from trunk - still there. I took to dealer, went on a ride with the service tech and of course I could not duplicate the sound. They basically tightened everything in that area with a nut or bolt and the sound ended. I also had them check that humongous battery under the rear seat to make sure it was tight.

 

AHAHAHAHA! LOL
My wife said the same thing! You are what you drive! (I like rice and beans...)

 

I experience the same thing on my 02' E430 4-Matic, and on an 02' E320. It sounds like the fuel filler door lock plunger is moving in and out. Please post the reason if you're able to find out why!

 

Maybe it automatically unlocks when I roll to a stop. I'll have time to play tomorrow so I'll check it out and also re-program the locking functions.

 

For some reason I had this funny vision of you running alongside the car trying to catch the plunger in action, which reminded me of my sister having to ride in the closed trunk trying to find a squeak my dad thought he heard. Hmmm...I wish I could think of a way to test it, but kudos to you if you can solve the mystery!

 

I got a similar noise but I suspect it's the fuel splashing against the tank's walls. Could be?

 

DWang suggested I reprogram the locks after the door stopped locking automatically as I drove away. It makes sense that it's all interrelated. I had not done this particular reprogramming after I Upsoluted (chip) the car. All it is is press and hold the central locking switch for 5 secs. while the key is in the #2 position. I guess I should compile all these programming procedures into 1 list. It's all in the book but scattered in different sections.:o

 

Techbike,

I already have mine set to automatically lock the doors after I start driving, but I usually use the central locking switch on the dash as soon as I get in the car. When you say to press and hold the central locking switch, do you mean the one on the dash or the one on the key?

Thanks!

 

New E,

The one in the dash. When you get in, turn ignition on but not start the engine, locks are up, press the button and hold for 5 secs or more.

 

Techbike,

Thanks for the clarification. I no longer seem to hear the noise, but now my trunk seems to remain locked in the "selective" unlocking mode. Now when I push the remote once to only unlock the driver's door the trunk no longer unlocks. Although I've been known to forget what I just did just a second ago, I thought the trunk used to unlock even in the selective mode. Any thoughts?

 

Now you have to stand in front of one of the 2 front doors (I don't really know if this is necessary but no harm done), then press both lock and unlock buttons on the remote for more than 5 secs. It toggles between global(everything unlocks or locks with 1 click) or selective(click 1 opens driver door and fuel door, click 2 opens the rest).
Let me know if I got it right...now I hear the popping again.

 

I too heard the noise start again. Have you sent a note or called the official MB tech area? I asked them a question on another issue (my same complaint about the trunk), and they called and e-mailed a reply. Someone, somewhere knows the answer, and it's probably been engineered into the design just to give it some added character...hmm...

 

that's my appointment for a whole slew of "problems".
1. "Popping"
2. tear in the headliner.
3. rattling sunroof door (only when it's slid back).
4. squeaking in the center harness reel in the back,
5. intermittent "no CD changer" message. I HAVE one.
6. rattle/squeaking in rear headrest assys.
7. loose "SRS" plastic caps on sides.
I'm actually scared to let the dealership touch my car! When I mentioned the rattling in the back, the answer I got was, "We recommend keeping the headrests up...It's those new 17" Z-rated tires..."
Yeah, right. Blame it on the tires, not the deteriorating assembly quality.

 

Techbike,

I got a chuckle (sorry) from reading your list. Another issue I just dismissed as being a quirk on my own car I see on your list as well. That darn headrest and the squeak is just too funny. Now if you tell me it's on the passenger side...! I haven't tried doing anything to make it stop, but I imagine you've exhausted all possible self fix-it remedies. I noticed you also mentioned a tear in the headliner, which I don't have, but someone referred to the E's dash being prone to cracking. Have you heard of that?? Hopefully this time next year that item isn't on either one of our lists!

 

LOL...
I was so upset I tore out the liner in the trunk and crawled in there to look at the headrest assy. I took ye olde trusty can of WD40 and sprayed on all 3 pair of hinges. It went away for a week. Then I heard it again. WD40's probably too thin a lube to use. The car sits in an open lot all day at work and it gets HOT.
While I was in there with the liner out, I actually saw a loose screw securing a black box to the wall above the left rear wheel well! There was a rattle waiting to happen.
I tell you, my brand loyalty of 20 somewhat years and a string of MBs is slowly being eroded. I wasn't shy when I filled out the "new owner surveys" so I hope somebody actually READS these things.

 

Techbike,

I read your post last night and decided I had to try a little more diligently to figure out why my rear headrest was squeaking. Unlike prior attempts, this time I was able to duplicate the problem when the car was stationary.

The squeak in mine was coming from where the headrest posts go through the plastic guides in the rear deck lid. It was touching just enough to rub against the opening, but not impede the travel of the post. As a late night fix I inserted one of those self-adhesive felt dots in the opening to act as a cushion between the post and the guide, and I didn't hear any noise from it today. Hopefully this is where your squeak is coming from too.

With respect to the popping noise, well...hmmm...

 

Thanks! I've been busy giving my CLK's aftermarket wheels one last chance (vibration) and I think it's solved. Too early to tell before a ;ong steady drive at 70. Anyway, I haven't been hearing the squeaks but the rattle on the sunroof door/shelf is driving me bananas.

 

I was shocked...(more later)
- Popping noise is actually some sort of relief valve in the fuel system that does its thing when pressure builds. So literally, my car IS farting! LOL. They said it's ususally not that loud in the E and is usually more apparent in the SLK due to insulation. I discreetly told my service advisor (who I've known since 6 MBs ago) that I Upsoluted the car, and he said that perhaps the new ECU program fooled with the vacuum/timing/mixture that caused this valve to go hyper. He suggested wrapping more insulation around the valve. I have to find it now. I wonder if Upsolute has had this experience and if it harms the car??
- They installed felt strips around the rear perimeter of the sunroof and eliminated the rattling. The headliner is such a large piece and covers the entire roof area that a little deformity or sagging from heat/gravity will cause a larger-than-normal clearance between the sunroof and the headliner cavity.
A new headliner was ordered from Germany, also to take care of the small tear; there wasn't a single one in the US so I have to wait 3-4 weeks.
- Seatbelt reel was replaced, a new headrest assy was ordered. The center headrest posts were "deformed" causing it to rub and cause the squeak.
- SRS plastic covers were checked and tabs adjusted so they "stay".

The service dept jumped when I was in there and I was surprised. A new appt. was set up for me with a loaner car on the spot, as soon as the parts arrived; and when the appt. guy balked ( it's a 5-6 week list), he was told it was for me and if it's a problem, clear it with Charlie, the mgr.!! Huh? I felt important... I strolled to the sales dept and chatted with my salesman while waiting for my car and he told me that the Montvale office, through the regional rep, really chewed up the service manager and the foremen. They had received the questionaire I filled out after my CLK55 purchase; where I wasn't shy about telling my vibration/tire balancing story, as well as sharing my E430 delivery experience (I had 3 malfunction messages on the E430 when I took delivery, and got a ****y, incorrect response from the shop foreman when I returned). I was apprehensive about my candidness in writing but my salesman said it's an effective way to set these guys straight. With 2 cars on warranty and FSS, I felt paranoid about being branded. Sort of like our fear of the waiter who sneaks to the side and spits on the pain-in-the-butt customer's food :p

 

C-o-n-g-r-a-t-u-l-a-t-i-o-n-s!!!

It sounds like you solved the mystery of the popping noise, and were able to get quite a few major annoyances remedied. I don't hear any squeaky headrests anymore, but the general thumping sound of the headrests bouncing up and down when going over less than smooth terrain is slightly bothersome. I think I might have to use the dreaded, yes dreaded Velcro to just secure them in place.

That's interesting about them installing felt strips around the perimeter of the sunroof. It sounds like they were actually a little creative/resourceful in their fix. Perhaps they became a little complacent and needed a jolt like your survey to "inspire" them to remember what superior customer service is about. You not only got the response you needed, but probably helped other customers out as well.

This kind of off the topic, but let me get your opinion. I have the Bose sound system, and the speaker in the left driver's door rattles a bit. I read the literature on the Bose website, and it essentially gives you the impression that you can crank up the sound and the system can handle it. The rattle occurs on bass notes, but I really don't have it at too loud a level. I was going to wait until my first service (I have 2,000 miles now), but do you think this is something I should try to get handled under warranty?

Thanks again for continuing to update me and the rest of us on this thread, as there's nothing like practical suggestions and stories of success!

 

Speaker rattle? I have cranked up my system; and as a matter of fact, I set the bass up a few notches as I like the fuller sound in my music. I don't have any of that. I suspect it may be a damaged speaker cone if it only happens on one. It's not uncommon. This happened to me on a 560SL and had to replace the speaker. Unfortunately, it was out of warranty and in hindsight, it may have been cheaper to replace both speakers with a better aftermarket set (they were Beckers). I suggest getting it changed. The servive advisor may know right away when you show it to him.

 

Techbike,

I scheduled service for next Wednesday and mentioned the speaker as one of the items. The primary service is a four wheel alignment since I hit a couple of huge potholes, but what surprised me is the relatively inexpensive cost for the dealer's service. You probably received something in the mail as well, but one of the services is a four wheel alignment for $79. Not a bad deal!

 

I'm sure they'll find something else to fix...
I haven't gotten the mailing but I wonder if they will do it on my CLK with aftermarket 19's. I'll call today because I know they use the latest Hunter machine with lasers and all.