In case your smart key broke
I manage to buy a used smart key, play around with it enough to switch out the board & chip, and YAHHOOOO, it works on my car (both window/door, and start engine).
Save myself at least $150 for a new key, and one life time of the key (you can replace key only 8 times for a car, dealer confirmed).
Last edited by zam2000; Feb 20, 2005 at 12:04 PM.
I manage to buy a used smart key, play around with it enough to switch out the board & chip, and YAHHOOOO, it works on my car (both window/door, and start engine).
Save myself at least $150 for a new key, and one life time of the key (you can replace key only 8 times for a car, dealer confirmed).
Cool! very useful information!
Mine broke the dealer tried not to use a slot, ordered a direct replacement, someone screwed up and it disabled the second one. They took the car in and ordered another as a "additional",everything fine. The person who designed this should be in the space program, keys are coded by the factory and the remote has to talk to the system to program itself (20 min to turn) (20 to start) to unlock the ignition, but will work on the doors out of the box. If the system is replaced it ships with a coding key (and new remotes), that has to be returned to the factory.
The technical theory takes eight pages...
PS to get to the "batteries" pull out the hard key, push the little gray bar inside the opening, and slide the board out of the housing.
Mine is a 98. From 98 on, the W210 use smartkey.
I thought your car had a switch blade key? no?
Please clarify.
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There's only one chip: the whole board.
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Jim
Jim
I'll respond. After you take the end of the key off and remove the batteries, there was a little white plastic keeper "bar" across the circuit board. I removed that with a dental pick. The circuit board will then slide out. It was easiest to perform this surgery on the "new" key since my old one was still working. With my new surgical confidence, I then removed the board from the old working key and rebuilt the new key with the old board and white plastic keeper bar.
It will lock and unlock the doors and operate the doors/sunroof mode. But it will not unlock the ignition or turn to start the car. I have read posts that mention that the car must "program" the key. Can someone give me detailed instructions on how the process works?
Blair
Two: you will not be able to use the board from the smaller one in the larger one. I immagine you could order the new? style but there is no reason to since the key does not wear out.
Three: if the remote you found under the seat unlocks the car it might be the correct one, but if the dealer ordered a replacement instead of an additional one the replacement will invalidate the one being replaced. I know, my dealer ordered the wrong one and it took my other remote out of service forever.
Four: these remotes are infrared and electronic and neeed to transmit their code to the car which sometimes takes 45 minutes. They light up, awile later they turn but the engine will not keep running and finally work.
The only value those remotes on E-Bay are is for housing replacements, yes they work but not on your car. Parking attendants were good for looking in glove compartments, since some people kept the extra remote there with the owners manual, rental cars were a good source since they always stashed the manual and the remotes behind the trunk liner (when the car was sold they were new)
But, it seems not an easy job. The whole board will not fit, and the chips look different in size.
Anyone has idea? Thanks!
Did you mean you have two different keys, and you replaced the housing of the small one?
Ben
Last edited by Ben'z; Jul 25, 2006 at 11:37 PM.









