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I know. The plug isn't the problem. I need to know which pins are being used. That's why I would like to get a detailed picture of the connector/plug. You can email it to me.
Awesome thread. I hardwired a Passport 9500ix last night in about an hour. Ran it from the rear view mirror across the headliner, down the door-side of the A-frame pillar under the dash (after removing the torque screws) and into the switched cigarette lighter. I removed the ash tray itself and I mounted the smartcord mute button in that area. It works better and you have more room without the tray (if you can do without smoking). The hardest part of the job was getting the smartcord into the ashtray area. Thanks to all who came before me!
Hate to bring back an old subject, but I'm stumped. I drive a '12 C63 AMG sedan.
I pulled the shifter plate off the console, removed the two screws from the ash tray, but could not gain enough clearance to pull out the ash tray assembly. Need to get it all the way out for access to the cig lighter wires. Anybody have a secret they want to share?
I'm afraid to pull off the console side panels for fear of breaking them.
Is there another more easily accessible switched 12v source I can use?
Last edited by NCBob; 01-27-2013 at 11:41 AM.
Reason: Grammatical error
Hate to bring back an old subject, but I'm stumped. I drive a '12 C63 AMG sedan.
I pulled the shifter plate off the console, removed the two screws from the ash tray, but could not gain enough clearance to pull out the ash tray assembly. Need to get it all the way out for access to the cig lighter wires. Anybody have a secret they want to share?
I'm afraid to pull off the console side panels for fear of breaking them.
Is there another more easily accessible switched 12v source I can use?
For those that have the Valentine, the Savvy conection is the simple hookup.
Plug it into the OBD, run the wires and you're in business. It's switched. No splicing or tapping. Took me 15 minutes.
Thanks to Bag302 for the tip.
For those that have the Valentine, the Savvy conection is the simple hookup.
Plug it into the OBD, run the wires and you're in business. It's switched. No splicing or tapping. Took me 15 minutes.
Thanks to Bag302 for the tip.
The only catch is that the SAVVY requires the OBD-II port constantly.... if you want to use that port for other things (ie. Data Logging with Kiwi) you are probably going to have to disconnect the V1 to do it.
I tried using an OBD-II "splitter" to run both devices but the Kiwi doesn't like it and won't link properly.
If anyone knows of a workaround, I'm all ears.....
I hope you guys are aware that the OBD connector isn't intended to power devices under constant load. Same as when people connect coffee cup heater plates and monitor Christmas lighting to their USB ports. It is a data port (OBD and USB) and not a power source!
I hope you guys are aware that the OBD connector isn't intended to power devices under constant load. Same as when people connect coffee cup heater plates and monitor Christmas lighting to their USB ports. It is a data port (OBD and USB) and not a power source!
Mack,
As successful as Valentine has been over the last decade, I feel confident that he's done his research. I've done a lot of research using the OBD and have seen no problems with using the OBD for a power source. The Valentine does not draw much power. Tiny wires are used as a power source using standard phone wires. If fuses blow and or smoke comes from the OBD, I'll be sure to report it here. If the OBD is needed for another function, unplug the Savvy. Right now, I'm sold.
I've owned the V1 detectors for 20+ years, but was getting REALLY tired of the "around town mute dance" that I'd have to play with it due to constant falsing near banks, automatic doors, etc.
Being able to set a threshold at 45mph to shut it up for city driving has been a Godsend...... Peace and quiet when want it, highway protection when I desperately need it.
Ordered a 6 foot long 12v non-coiled power cable off Amazon (it was not flat as I was hoping, but round) and ran it down the passenger side headliner, into the A-pillar and used my trim tools to wedge it behind the trim and down the door side of the A-pillar, behind the removable panel on the edge of the dash that meets the door, and finally to power that I ran from the 12v plug in the center of the dash behind my glove box. Works great!
i have the weirdest problem with mine. for some odd reason, my V1 will only stay on when my headlight switch isn't in the auto position. when it's in the auto position, it turns on but turns off right after and only turns back on when my car goes under a bridge or parks under the garage.
my V1 is hardwired and tapped into the cigarette lighter as well.
Hmmmm... There's 3 wires going into the back of the cigarette plug, is it possible you tapped into the wire for the light in the cigarette lighter ring surround, instead of the red wire? Sounds like the light sensor is turning on the car's lights and that might be your hot wire for the V1 (the light in the cigarette lighter surround going on probably correlates with the V1 turning on?)
For all of you who don't know but I'm building custom made wiring harnesses for the V1! No running down to ash tray, A-Pillar or the like.
If you want one shoot me a PM for pricing and info! Power is switched so your V1 doesn't drain the battery (anything else would be stupid in the first place)!!!
For all of you who don't know but I'm building custom made wiring harnesses for the V1! No running down to ash tray, A-Pillar or the like.
If you want one shoot me a PM for pricing and info! Power is switched so your V1 doesn't drain the battery (anything else would be stupid in the first place)!!!
would you mind providing more information of your custom made wiring harnesses? i thought i'd ask here instead of a PM so you don't have to explain the harness multiple times.
The harness is built so you can use the overhead control module (part where the light switches and sun roof switch is located) for switched power. No soldering or clipping wires required.
Nice, clean approach to hook up the best radar detector that money can buy on earth in the best engineered cars on this planet
Many thanks to both the author and contributors on this post. I was able to hardwire my 8500 X50 this evening with minimal fuss. I tapped into the +12v sw behind the cigarette lighter using a Passport Hardwire kit. I ran mounted the remote switch on the passenger side of center console for easy access. I ran the wires up the passenger side and tucked into A pillar and headliner.
Thanks again all, very happy with the final product!
Has anyone gone in from "below"? I get perfectly fine reception having my 9500ix mounted just above the dash, and I prefer it there for a few reasons.
So bypassing the placement discussion, how best do I route the hardwired power? I had two thoughts right off:
1.) Go through the center mounted speaker, but that would require making a notch in the grille, which seems a bit risky, but probably not as risky as option 2.
or
2.) Drill a hole through the dash along the recessed vent line where the defroster vents are.... but I'm not sure what I'd be getting into with that.
I'm also thinking about scrapping the plain hardwired power cord that I have, and getting the "smart" cord so that I have the little "silence/memorize" button a bit more within reach, and mounting that in the ashtray, but not sure if it's worth it.
Anyone gone this route, or have useful information?
For anyone else that wants to install it low.... five minutes with a Dremel tool this past weekend, and I had a nice clean little notch in the center speaker grille, and snaking the smart cord to the lighter was easy as pie. Mounted the remote next to the lighter and I couldn't be happier!
09-18-2011, 04:04 PM
Bob
