Tranny problem???
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4 wheeled car.
Tranny problem???
My father's W211 is acting up. I haven't experienced that problem as I haven't driven the car much, but it happened to my sister and my dad when they drove the 211 at different occasions. They said driving at low speed li, the car would be in the appropriate gear, running at low rpm. I guess it's when the foot is off the gas pedal the car would, according to them, drop in 1st gear or maybe brake by itself and jerk the car as if the driver was hitting the brakes repeatidely as one would do to shake off a tailgater. Anyway, this is some weird **** and I have no idea what it could be. I guess I should drive it for a while to experience it myself and figure out exactly what the hell it does, but did this ever happen to anyone? The car is under warranty but I don't know what to tell them to fix. 2003 W211 E320, 40k miles, starmarked.
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Originally Posted by The Godfather
I guess it's when the foot is off the gas pedal the car would, according to them, drop in 1st gear or maybe brake by itself and jerk the car as if the driver was hitting the brakes repeatidely as one would do to shake off a tailgater.
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Originally Posted by konigstiger
The ECU software needs to be updated.
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Originally Posted by The Godfather
The car is up to date on its recalls...you'd think they'd know if it were outta date and would do it.... hmmmm
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Originally Posted by konigstiger
This problem was/is common to the 03 e320 however it has not been classified as a recall or service campaign. Actually dates back to P-B-07.00/28f FEB04 where the problem is described as “lack of power” and/or “hesitation caused by two-footed driver (i.e.: as if or like the driver depresses accelerator and brake pedal at the same time)."
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Originally Posted by The Godfather
Well son of a .... So I guess I can just go and ask that they flash the ECU to the latest update and that's all? That number P-B-07.00/28f FEB04 is something they should know in reference to this?
#7
Ask them to check for coolant in the transmission fluid. In the E-class they have a radiator design flaw that can allow coolant into the transmission fluid. I had this problem and basically the car jerks when in low gears and gets worse later on and then it won't matter in which gear your in.
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If the condition is not intermittent and can be produced at all times:
P-B-27.55/50e MAR06 Harsh Engagement Possibly Followed by Droning/Buzzing Noises Light Acceleration – caused by incomplete adaptation of the torque converter, the transmission (EGS) ECU software or glycol contamination of the automatic transmission fluid.
P-B-27.55/50e MAR06 Harsh Engagement Possibly Followed by Droning/Buzzing Noises Light Acceleration – caused by incomplete adaptation of the torque converter, the transmission (EGS) ECU software or glycol contamination of the automatic transmission fluid.
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This problem was/is common to the 03 e320 however it has not been classified as a recall or service campaign. Actually dates back to P-B-07.00/28f FEB04 where the problem is described as “lack of power” and/or “hesitation caused by two-footed driver (i.e.: as if or like the driver depresses accelerator and brake pedal at the same time)."
If the condition is not intermittent and can be produced at all times:
P-B-27.55/50e MAR06 Harsh Engagement Possibly Followed by Droning/Buzzing Noises Light Acceleration – caused by incomplete adaptation of the torque converter, the transmission (EGS) ECU software or glycol contamination of the automatic transmission fluid.
P-B-27.55/50e MAR06 Harsh Engagement Possibly Followed by Droning/Buzzing Noises Light Acceleration – caused by incomplete adaptation of the torque converter, the transmission (EGS) ECU software or glycol contamination of the automatic transmission fluid.
i'm gonna go and mention these to my mechanic when i take the car in for Service C. this is really starting to get on my nerves.
my mechanic said it could be water in the fluid but i already had the tranny replaced? u guys don't think the dealer kept the same radiator that i had before?
#10
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I think the DTB says to replace the radiator among other things for repair.
Check to see if your radiator has the dentil type crimping.
Check to see if your radiator has the dentil type crimping.
#12
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Check this thread, post #12.
On my car, I can see the crimping by looking into the engine compartment from the passenger side at the bottom corner of the radiator.
From what I've read, you should see a label by looking under a rubber gasket above the radiator, from the engine compartment looking towards the front of the car. Look at the picture in the link with the Mobil 1 sticker upside down to give you an idea.
On my car, I can see the crimping by looking into the engine compartment from the passenger side at the bottom corner of the radiator.
From what I've read, you should see a label by looking under a rubber gasket above the radiator, from the engine compartment looking towards the front of the car. Look at the picture in the link with the Mobil 1 sticker upside down to give you an idea.
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Check this thread, post #12.
On my car, I can see the crimping by looking into the engine compartment from the passenger side at the bottom corner of the radiator.
From what I've read, you should see a label by looking under a rubber gasket above the radiator, from the engine compartment looking towards the front of the car. Look at the picture in the link with the Mobil 1 sticker upside down to give you an idea.
On my car, I can see the crimping by looking into the engine compartment from the passenger side at the bottom corner of the radiator.
From what I've read, you should see a label by looking under a rubber gasket above the radiator, from the engine compartment looking towards the front of the car. Look at the picture in the link with the Mobil 1 sticker upside down to give you an idea.
for the label, i looked at the area the picture is showing (by the mobil 1 under the rubber flap) and there is no label
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
#14
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thank you. i will check crimping.
for the label, i looked at the area the picture is showing (by the mobil 1 under the rubber flap) and there is no label
and there never was to begin with (if i remember correctly) even before they changed my tranny. i will look at other areas again.
for the label, i looked at the area the picture is showing (by the mobil 1 under the rubber flap) and there is no label
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
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so i moved up the plastic rubbery thing covering the radiator on top and found this info:
a211 500 06 54 (MB part number)
r134a (???)
B symbol (minus the line on left side of top circle)
17027 2 (???)
20/02/04 (i'm guessing manufactured date)
so from what i can tell, i have the behr radiator.
now my next question is, can i still have the crimping issue even with the behr radiator???
if not, then it would probably be:
P-B-07.00/28f FEB04 where the problem is described as “lack of power” and/or “hesitation caused by two-footed driver (i.e.: as if or like the driver depresses accelerator and brake pedal at the same time), OR
P-B-27.55/50e AR06 Harsh Engagement Possibly Followed by Droning/Buzzing Noises Light Acceleration – caused by incomplete adaptation of the torque converter, the transmission (EGS) ECU software
again thank you for everyone's help.
a211 500 06 54 (MB part number)
r134a (???)
B symbol (minus the line on left side of top circle)
17027 2 (???)
20/02/04 (i'm guessing manufactured date)
so from what i can tell, i have the behr radiator.
now my next question is, can i still have the crimping issue even with the behr radiator???
if not, then it would probably be:
P-B-07.00/28f FEB04 where the problem is described as “lack of power” and/or “hesitation caused by two-footed driver (i.e.: as if or like the driver depresses accelerator and brake pedal at the same time), OR
P-B-27.55/50e AR06 Harsh Engagement Possibly Followed by Droning/Buzzing Noises Light Acceleration – caused by incomplete adaptation of the torque converter, the transmission (EGS) ECU software
again thank you for everyone's help.
#17
Be careful about the name appearing in that cutout. The part closest to the fans is the air conditioning coil. That has nothing to do with the tranny. The one on mine says Behr but that IS NOT the radiator. The crimping is more reliable. I believe you can get a look at it down near the bottom of the radiator on the passenger side. Search this forum for the pics. Someone did an excellent photo doc on the difference.
#18
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Clinton, are you sure the condensing coil is closest to the fan? I could swear when I looked at my car the condensing coil was fore of the radiator just like every other setup I've seen.
If you see R134a on it, you're looking at the condensing coil. Like Clinton said, look at the crimping to determine if it's a Behr radiator.
If you see R134a on it, you're looking at the condensing coil. Like Clinton said, look at the crimping to determine if it's a Behr radiator.
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#21
[QUOTE=Efivehundred;4056505]Clinton, are you sure the condensing coil is closest to the fan? I could swear when I looked at my car the condensing coil was fore of the radiator just like every other setup I've seen.
I am completely wrong, The condensing unit is first in the airflow. In my effort to prevent confusion, I created more. I am VERY sorry (and embarassed), The radiator is BEHIND the condensing coil in the airflow. Still when you see 134 mentioned on the part, that is referring to the HVAC refrigerant.
I am completely wrong, The condensing unit is first in the airflow. In my effort to prevent confusion, I created more. I am VERY sorry (and embarassed), The radiator is BEHIND the condensing coil in the airflow. Still when you see 134 mentioned on the part, that is referring to the HVAC refrigerant.
#22
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There's no need for you to be embarrassed. I didn't want to call you out on it but didn't want erroneous information out there. MB should be the one embarrassed for not replacing the radiators that were known to be faulty.
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Here's some picture of the Behr Radiator Crimp