What the hell is going on with my tranny?
so any VALEO radiator is at high risk of breaking?
or just on vehicles manufactured before 09/03 ?
Please help, thanks!
The Valeo radiator has dental type crimping. Very distinctive and different from Behr. My E320 falls under the 065 chasis number mentioned above but it has a Behr unit. Possibly replaced in during the lease.
See posts 1 and 13
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...placement.html
Can you tell me what is a dental type crimp? Can you tell me which picture in the above post shows the crimp?
Thanks!




007 E350 (I was watching casino royal the other day actually, DBS ddddrrrrooooolllllllll), I have never heard of it happening on an E350. You most likely do not have the valeo radiator but the updated one (I think it's Baer or something). Also, I have never heard of it happening on an 05.
On a different note, I noticed a pronounced "whine" in my 2003 5 speed tranny yesterday. It was in W mode. I changed to S and it disappeared. Anyone have any knowledge about that? I exchanged about 1/2 of the fluid with the correct Mercedes branded fluid about 2000 miles ago. I was careful to replace only what came out, and a new pan filter.
I am beginning to wonder if that was wise. Changed at 39000. Now has 41,000
Model 203.040/061/064/065/081/084/261/264/281/284/740/747/764
Model 209.365/375/376/465/475
Model 211.065/070/076/083/265/283
Up to Production Date 09/2003
Harsh Engagement Possibly Followed by Droning/Buzzing Noises During Light Acceleration Between Engine Speed of 1200 – 2500 RPM
1. The first picture shows where to find the rubber flap that is between a top metal piece and the radiator. See where the finger is pointing.
2. The second picture is a close-up look of this rubber flap.
3. The third picture shows how the flap is lifted exposing the label on top of the radiator.
4. The fourth picture clearly shows the radiator label printed on it a circle around letter B indicating this is a Behr radiator.
Good luck!
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
I have 64k miles on my 2004 CLK500
with a manufacturing date on the door of 01/04
my chasis etc. is:
ModelCLK 500Chassis2093751F103607Engine113968 30 563640Transmission722633 05 071411Order0 4 705 15460Delivery date26.01.04
The dealership denied the fact of a faulty radiator in certain
models and claimed that all radiators are suceptable to failing
and leaking into the transmission..
Please tell me if I should have this changed by and indie or not..
thanks much!
1. The first picture shows where to find the rubber flap that is between a top metal piece and the radiator. See where the finger is pointing.
2. The second picture is a close-up look of this rubber flap.
3. The third picture shows how the flap is lifted exposing the label on top of the radiator.
4. The fourth picture clearly shows the radiator label printed on it a circle around letter B indicating this is a Behr radiator.
Good luck!
. I think the crimps looked more Behr than Valeo. There are no right angle folds at the end of the crimps. The plastic of the radiator definitely looked more Behr than Valeo with the series of bumps made for the wavy crimps. It must be an earlier version of Behr where they used to notch the crimps instead of one continuous wave. May I celebrate now?
where did you get your benz serviced under the CPO warranty? Tysons Benz (HBL) i have an 06 E500 and wonder if i should be worried about the glycol problem.
Did the service people give you problems to get the repairs done under CPO?
i am trying to fine the behr Radiator but no luck can some one help me out please
thanks you for any info
which appears to be the same radiator they use on the 203 series MB.
Anyway of checking if this is an updated one or the original?
Thanks
Symptoms are when slightly accelerating (while driving between 20-45mph) seems like car would upshift slowly accelerate then downshift and back to normal driving, almost like someone not able to properly drive a manual car.
While car is on the go, no problems at all , also no problems if driving manually choosing gears.
Dealer wont bother with the re-adaptation and says I need a new Torque converter.
I am willing to replace but wanted to check with you guys if it will solve the problem (I have SL500 2004 with 7g-tronic) uses same torque as 211.
Do i need to replace T/Q or simply re-adapt at another dealer ?? Please PM me DTB's
Help is greatly appreciated
Symptoms are when slightly accelerating (while driving between 20-45mph) seems like car would upshift slowly accelerate then downshift and back to normal driving, almost like someone not able to properly drive a manual car.
While car is on the go, no problems at all , also no problems if driving manually choosing gears.
Dealer wont bother with the re-adaptation and says I need a new Torque converter.
I am willing to replace but wanted to check with you guys if it will solve the problem (I have SL500 2004 with 7g-tronic) uses same torque as 211.
Do i need to replace T/Q or simply re-adapt at another dealer ?? Please PM me DTB's
Help is greatly appreciated
This is gonna cost me $$$ 1,800$ for the torque alone without labor...
Anyway i hope this resolves my problem gonna take the car tomorrow..
SoCalCLK did ur old (bad) torque seem to make the tranny upshift directly after u press on the gas pedal (that's where you feel there's no power in the car) then feels like it would pick up after some shaking (or vibration??)
Thanks for confirming its the torque was afraid to replace without resolving the issue. Just want to make sure I have the same problem u used to have.. u can also feel it after a turn because u dont have your foot on the gas and while/after turning u slightly press the gas pedal and it does it... lol.. weird problem never happened to me (and only at 40,000 miles)
By the way your brabus rims are beauutiful
Anyway i hope this resolves my problem gonna take the car tomorrow..
SoCalCLK did ur old (bad) torque seem to make the tranny upshift directly after u press on the gas pedal (that's where you feel there's no power in the car) then feels like it would pick up after some shaking (or vibration??)
Thanks for confirming its the torque was afraid to replace without resolving the issue. Just want to make sure I have the same problem u used to have.. u can also feel it after a turn because u dont have your foot on the gas and while/after turning u slightly press the gas pedal and it does it... lol.. weird problem never happened to me (and only at 40,000 miles)
By the way your brabus rims are beauutiful

Yes, I had the same symptoms: Started with 1) the shaking and rattling, even on the fwy, everytime my car shifted. At first I thought it was my alignment, etc. but it was the tranny/torque convertor. 2) The upshift, when I mashed the throttle, otherwise, it would not shift at all, or shift very hard.
Before you take it into service, search the Internet for a 15% or 20% Off coupon for service, (that translates into a potential $300-360 savings) after you get the work done, call Mercedes-Benz USA, and they may be able to help you get a partial refund, in addition to any coupons.
Yes, I had the same symptoms: Started with 1) the shaking and rattling, even on the fwy, everytime my car shifted. At first I thought it was my alignment, etc. but it was the tranny/torque convertor. 2) The upshift, when I mashed the throttle, otherwise, it would not shift at all, or shift very hard.
Before you take it into service, search the Internet for a 15% or 20% Off coupon for service, (that translates into a potential $300-360 savings) after you get the work done, call Mercedes-Benz USA, and they may be able to help you get a partial refund, in addition to any coupons.
Thanks for the tip man.. will save myself some money...
By the way do you know what caused this problem of the torque converter going bad?
I dnt have any glycol or radiator fluid leaking dealer said it just goes bad after a while (40k miles!! only though) maybe I could take some preventive measures for the future..
1. The first picture shows where to find the rubber flap that is between a top metal piece and the radiator. See where the finger is pointing.
2. The second picture is a close-up look of this rubber flap.
3. The third picture shows how the flap is lifted exposing the label on top of the radiator.
4. The fourth picture clearly shows the radiator label printed on it a circle around letter B indicating this is a Behr radiator.
Good luck!
I did not see a definitive response to UsedMB’s post #63. Is it a Valeo or a Behr?
Thanks, Richard
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...iator-r-r.html
I did not see a definitive response to UsedMB’s post #63. Is it a Valeo or a Behr?
Thanks, Richard



. I'm going to check under my hood again tonight. Thanks again!