High Heat From Rear A/C Ducts w/ A/C On
This ocurrs intermittantly in my car and my dealer really has no experience with the problem occuring in other cars since they work properly when the techs look at the cars.
Is there a positive cure for this ??? ... a TSB? ... a part number?

Do you have the answer MbenzNL Steve?
Last edited by Barry45RPM; Jul 27, 2006 at 06:33 PM.
Barry, if you had gone the route suggested (PM) can you imagine how embarrassed the service dept. would have been? Nevertheless still an ace in the hole that’s readily available if, and when needed. The way I see it you’re covered at least till year’s end with the gratuities, no?
Good luck.
Will watch the thread for part numbers/ bulletin... then its off to the svc dept for the repair. The heat is incredible and completely overpowers the A/C.
I don't want to embarass the Svc department since they are SO GOOD to me... and yeah, I am covered at least till New Years with gratuities. But I don't mind taking care of those that take really good care of me.
Will watch the thread for part numbers/ bulletin... then its off to the svc dept for the repair. The heat is incredible and completely overpowers the A/C.
I don't want to embarass the Svc department since they are SO GOOD to me... and yeah, I am covered at least till New Years with gratuities. But I don't mind taking care of those that take really good care of me.
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Rear A/C Intermittently Blows Warm Air in Cooling Mode or No Warm Air in Heating Mode.
Check the heat exchanger shut off valve, M16/32. DTCs 9026 (M16/32 open) and/or 9027 (M16/32 short circuited) may or may not be stored. A test via “actuations” in DAS may indicate that the driver side SAM is malfunctioning. In any case, perform the following test. Prior to replacing the driver side SAM, perform the following test.
1. Remove connector M4 from the driver’s side SAM.
2. With a multimeter, check the resistance between pin 9 and pin 12 on the connector just removed.
3. If the resistance for M16/32 is less than 10 ohms, replace the heat exchanger shut off valve. Do not replace the driver’s side SAM.
4. If the resistance for M16/32 is 10 ohms of more, the heat exchange shut off valve is OK. Continue to diagnose the system as needed.
Heat exchanger shut off valve part # A211 832 00 84
However, I have a stupid question, I'm having a hard time figuring out which one is connector M4 on the SAM. I have searched, and I suspect it is something obvious that I'm missing, or I'm just too inexperienced to figure out? Can someone help?
Using SDS, Dr-Side SAM has a fault: 9026 "Component M16/32 (Heat exchanger shutoff motor) or the lead has a short circuit". My AC and heat seems to be fine, but I would like to determine if the problem is the SAM or the heat exchanger shut off valve.
Would appreciate some help on where connector M4 is on the SAM: do I need to remove anything else on the SAM to get to connector M4? Looking at the nest of wires with my old eyes, I couldn't easily find M4, and I didn't want to moving wires around without having some idea of what I was looking for...
I pulled the driver side SAM with the help of the pictures above, and checked resistance on pins 9 and 12 on connector M4 per the instructions above, and got 90 ohms (hope I was doing it correctly)... So I assume my valve is fine, and the problem was elsewhere (maybe the SAM...).
I was taking the car to the dealer for SBC replacement under warranty, so I thought I would simply have them diagnose and possibly fix this fault depending on the issue. However, the Dealer said when they scanned it there were no other issues?
Is it possible there was (or is) a bad connection somewhere, and when I messed with the SAM, the connection is now properly seated?
I plan to keep an eye on it, but for now my 9026 fault is gone...
Lee







