19 inch wheel/tire weigh 60lb per corner.. will it slow down the car a lot
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19 inch wheel/tire weigh 60lb per corner.. will it slow down the car a lot
i want to upgrade from weak 16" stockers to some 19inch rims & tires, but according to the info at tirerack, the wheel/tire combo i want would weigh almost 60lb per corner!! (29lb for rim + 29lb for tire)
i'm not sure how much 16" stockers weigh but i'm sure not 58lb.
i've read of unsprung vs sprung weight and how it can affect acceleration, braking and gas mileage. is 58lb too much?
i'm not sure how much 16" stockers weigh but i'm sure not 58lb.
i've read of unsprung vs sprung weight and how it can affect acceleration, braking and gas mileage. is 58lb too much?
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Originally Posted by ProV1
. . . i'm not sure how much 16" stockers weigh but i'm sure not 58lb. . .
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2015 S212
I'd bet you are going to gain about 10lbs at each corner. Yes, it will make your car seem less responsive. 19s are for looks and not performance. Pick your poinson and move on.
Most cast rims will be about that weight. The only difference is in the amount of metal between a 16 and a 19 AND in the radius of that weight. The farther out, the stronger the effect, so that is why 19s become less responsive.
Most cast rims will be about that weight. The only difference is in the amount of metal between a 16 and a 19 AND in the radius of that weight. The farther out, the stronger the effect, so that is why 19s become less responsive.
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i want to upgrade from weak 16" stockers to some 19inch rims & tires, but according to the info at tirerack, the wheel/tire combo i want would weigh almost 60lb per corner!! (29lb for rim + 29lb for tire)
i'm not sure how much 16" stockers weigh but i'm sure not 58lb.
i've read of unsprung vs sprung weight and how it can affect acceleration, braking and gas mileage. is 58lb too much?
i'm not sure how much 16" stockers weigh but i'm sure not 58lb.
i've read of unsprung vs sprung weight and how it can affect acceleration, braking and gas mileage. is 58lb too much?
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was '03 E320 - now - '04 S4
With respect to 19" wheels - if you choose a set of forged wheels instead of cast wheels you can save a good deal of weight and get wheels that are probably going to be much stronger as well.
A heavy car like the W211 + cast 19"s + moderately bad roads often = bent wheels.
I ultimately went w/ 19s for the bling factor on my audi but they are only 21lb each. (BBS RS-GT)
A heavy car like the W211 + cast 19"s + moderately bad roads often = bent wheels.
I ultimately went w/ 19s for the bling factor on my audi but they are only 21lb each. (BBS RS-GT)
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From: Michigan, USA
'05 E320 CDI, '07 VW Touareg V10 TDI, 2007 Porsche GT3
The OEM 225/55x16 Michelin MXV 4 tires on 16x8 cast rims on our CDI weighed 50# each (by actual measurement). The BBS forged 18x8" RS-GT wheels with Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 245/40 tires I installed weigh 48# each. Not a major improvement, but at least a change in the right direction. I was amazed to find that this tire/wheel combo provides:
-A better ride
-Much better handling and braking
-No apparent loss of acceleration
-Fuel economy loss of 5 - 8% (!)
You are very wise to consider the consequences of the weight change. It appears that most folks that do an upgrade consider only appearance and clearance problems. The tire/wheel combo is both unsprung and rotating mass, and can compromise both ride and acceleration/braking if the new equipment is significantly heavier. I don't know what you have now, but the estimate of a 10# per wheel/tire sounds to be in the ballpark. This is a bunch - 20% or so!
If it were me, I'd look for something lighter. Forged wheels do, indeed, tend to weigh less and be stronger per pound than cast.
Consider: The appearance difference between 18" and 19" will be almost imperceptible, but I'll bet you can tell the difference of 10#/corner from a performance standpoint.
Good luck.
-A better ride
-Much better handling and braking
-No apparent loss of acceleration
-Fuel economy loss of 5 - 8% (!)
You are very wise to consider the consequences of the weight change. It appears that most folks that do an upgrade consider only appearance and clearance problems. The tire/wheel combo is both unsprung and rotating mass, and can compromise both ride and acceleration/braking if the new equipment is significantly heavier. I don't know what you have now, but the estimate of a 10# per wheel/tire sounds to be in the ballpark. This is a bunch - 20% or so!
If it were me, I'd look for something lighter. Forged wheels do, indeed, tend to weigh less and be stronger per pound than cast.
Consider: The appearance difference between 18" and 19" will be almost imperceptible, but I'll bet you can tell the difference of 10#/corner from a performance standpoint.
Good luck.
Last edited by khaug; Sep 25, 2006 at 02:43 AM.
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Karl, thanks for the very insightful reply, really helps a lot. I'm curious why you are getting worse MPG ..? increased radius?
BTW, where in MI are you? i'm in A2 - GO BLUE!!
BTW, where in MI are you? i'm in A2 - GO BLUE!!
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From: St. Louis, MO
C300
See also this link, in which the author notes that the "Bridgestone B381 ... has a measured rolling-resistance coefficient (RRC) of 0.0062 (2002)—one of the lowest on the market. The Michelin Pilot Sport A/S ... has a rolling-resistance coefficient of 0.0133 (2002)—one of the highest." http://www.hybridcars.com/blogs/hyview/tire-labels
The Goodyears must really stick to the pavement! It would be nice to find a better tire than the Michelins as far as handling characteristics that also has low rolling resistance.
Lou
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From: Michigan, USA
'05 E320 CDI, '07 VW Touareg V10 TDI, 2007 Porsche GT3
Very nice post by Lou eloquently says what I was going to say.
This is a real mpg difference, not artifactual. I carefully measured the OE tires and the Goodyears, and their circumferences were within 1/4", which is trivial.
Alas, the Goodyears have become so noisy in the past several thousand miles that I'm considering replacing them with probably 70% of their original tread depth still present.
I'm in Lansing, BTW. Go Spartans!
This is a real mpg difference, not artifactual. I carefully measured the OE tires and the Goodyears, and their circumferences were within 1/4", which is trivial.
Alas, the Goodyears have become so noisy in the past several thousand miles that I'm considering replacing them with probably 70% of their original tread depth still present.
I'm in Lansing, BTW. Go Spartans!
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Please keep us informed what you decide to get, and if you extract any rolling resistance date from the manufacturer.
Lou
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'05 E320 CDI, '07 VW Touareg V10 TDI, 2007 Porsche GT3
I suppose it could be an alignment issue, since I've never had the car aligned. Should have alignment checked before I dump a set of perfectly usable/very expensive/otherwise desirable tires, I suppose. Besides which, I don't really know where to go with replacements. My GS-D3s currently have 7-10K miles on them.
I have a strong suspicion that the lower the DOT wear rating, the higher the rolling resistance. I'd about settled on a set of Bridgestone R050 Pole Position tires, until I looked at their wear rating, which is 180 as compared to 240 for the GS-D3s! Don't want to lose still more mpg, as that's what I bought a diesel for!
Oh yeah, BTW, my Goodyears are labelled "Made in Germany", and carry a "Z" (not "Y") speed rating!
Regards,
I have a strong suspicion that the lower the DOT wear rating, the higher the rolling resistance. I'd about settled on a set of Bridgestone R050 Pole Position tires, until I looked at their wear rating, which is 180 as compared to 240 for the GS-D3s! Don't want to lose still more mpg, as that's what I bought a diesel for!
Oh yeah, BTW, my Goodyears are labelled "Made in Germany", and carry a "Z" (not "Y") speed rating!
Regards,
