Racing Brake Fluid?
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2003 E500
Racing Brake Fluid?
Last week I participated in a track day at Spring Mountain Motorsports Park outside of Vegas. After each session my front brakes had smoke pouring out of them and after the last session, the Brake Failure Warning light lit up. I let the car sit for about 30 minutes and everything was and still is fine. I am assuming I cooked the brake fluid. Has anyone changed over to a racing type brake fluid and if so, any recommendations. BTW, 2003 E500 stock brakes and pads, 18in AMG wheels w. BFG G-Force KDW.
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209/W210 Estate /W211 modded by MBENZNL
I Would advise you to NOT use the Silicone/Synthetic Brake fluids as they Will NOT absorb moisture in the brake system..and with SBC cars we do NOT need any more problems...
Since you track the car ..Its Time to Upgrade the brakes...
I Installed the Large Eight piston caliper set up on the front and four piston rears..Ala AMG E55 what a HUGE difference!
If Not go for a set of slotted/drilled AND Cyro treated rotors with a High performance pad (Porterfield) It WILL Work a LOT better than the stock set up
Since you track the car ..Its Time to Upgrade the brakes...
I Installed the Large Eight piston caliper set up on the front and four piston rears..Ala AMG E55 what a HUGE difference!
If Not go for a set of slotted/drilled AND Cyro treated rotors with a High performance pad (Porterfield) It WILL Work a LOT better than the stock set up
Last edited by MARK CUMMINS; 09-27-2006 at 06:59 PM.
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2003 E500
Thank you for the response. I probably will not track the car enough to justify the brake change, was just looking for a quick fix before StarFest. Just in case I change my mind, what is the approx. cost for the E55 switch?
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209/W210 Estate /W211 modded by MBENZNL
Body Kit/Brakes/Exhaust/19AMG Multipiece rims ala SL65
But The brakes make a HUGE difference ..Cost was $$$$
![EEK!](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
And the Labor to swap out the front end as the spindles are different size
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sold - w211 e320, f250, rx7 race car
My dealer worked up a quote for me a few weeks ago, total parts (including spindles I believe) was around $3k and that was wholesale. Rotors, calipers, pads, sensors, spindles, etc front and rear. I have the breakdown in my car but it's at the dealer for paint. Labor shouldn't be too bad.
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'05 E320 CDI, '07 VW Touareg V10 TDI, 2007 Porsche GT3
I've done performance driving instruction for 20 years. I currently run ATE Blue Racing or gold (alternating each time I do a fluid change, so that the change is visible) in my old 911.
If your car is a "garage queen" and hasn't had regular brake fluid changes, this is probably all you'll need, although your description of smoky brakes makes me wonder! Brake fluid absorbs water, which lowers the boiling point. This creates a braking system with vapor in it, which will yield a "long" pedal and poor braking performance.
If you haven't gotten your brakes really hot before, there's a breakin period involved in which the binder in the pad cooks out of the friction material. This can produce smoke and brake fade temporarily, until the volatile component of the pads cooks out. This and the need for fresh DOT4 fluid are undoubtedly at the root of your problems.
Once you change to fresh,(DOT 4) brake fluid ,I'll bet your problem goes away. ATE is reasonably priced and needs to be changed only once per season if you do lots of track events.
BTW, "change" means, evacuate all the fluid from the reservior, refill with fresh DOT4, then bleed each caliper until you have fresh fluid coming out. There are some that say not to use ATE gold/blue unless you will be changing it at least once/year.
Good luck.
If your car is a "garage queen" and hasn't had regular brake fluid changes, this is probably all you'll need, although your description of smoky brakes makes me wonder! Brake fluid absorbs water, which lowers the boiling point. This creates a braking system with vapor in it, which will yield a "long" pedal and poor braking performance.
If you haven't gotten your brakes really hot before, there's a breakin period involved in which the binder in the pad cooks out of the friction material. This can produce smoke and brake fade temporarily, until the volatile component of the pads cooks out. This and the need for fresh DOT4 fluid are undoubtedly at the root of your problems.
Once you change to fresh,(DOT 4) brake fluid ,I'll bet your problem goes away. ATE is reasonably priced and needs to be changed only once per season if you do lots of track events.
BTW, "change" means, evacuate all the fluid from the reservior, refill with fresh DOT4, then bleed each caliper until you have fresh fluid coming out. There are some that say not to use ATE gold/blue unless you will be changing it at least once/year.
Good luck.
Last edited by khaug; 09-28-2006 at 12:12 AM.