Proper way to break-in new rotors?
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Eurocharged 2004 E500, Eurocharged ECU/TCU 2005 SL600, 2010 Caddy SwaggerWagon
Proper way to break-in new rotors?
I just put new slotted/drilled rotors on all 4 corners with new pads up front. Do I need to break these in a certain way or can I just let 'er rip and call it a day?
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2004 E320
I follow these break-in procedures whenever I change my brake pads. You should ask your shop if they already broke-in your pads/rotors for you.
All brake pads have to be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against. Even though Hawk Performance burnishes the pads in the factory, a transfer film must be generated at the pad and rotor interface for optimal performance. Whether it is new or used rotors, you must follow the bed-in steps listed below to maximize brake performance.
After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
After step 4 your new brake pads are ready for use.
All brake pads have to be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against. Even though Hawk Performance burnishes the pads in the factory, a transfer film must be generated at the pad and rotor interface for optimal performance. Whether it is new or used rotors, you must follow the bed-in steps listed below to maximize brake performance.
After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
After step 4 your new brake pads are ready for use.
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2004 E320, 2006 Infiniti G35X, Yamaha VMAX 700 (Snowmobile)
I had the wife's Infiniti done due to a recall and was told that the new rotors must be brought up to temperature in a prudent manner to burn off the contaminants on the rotors, about 100 miles of normal driving should do it. Not sure of course if this applies to I-rotors or not.
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From: So Cal
2010 RRS ; BMW K1200R; 14 E350 ; 14 RRS on order
The only really bad thing you can do with new rotors is to get them really really hot and then poor water on them. you'll warp them really quick.
Sooo, if you live someplace cold, then take it easy on the heat. And if you're gonna wash the car make sure to let the rotors cool waaay down before water.
Sooo, if you live someplace cold, then take it easy on the heat. And if you're gonna wash the car make sure to let the rotors cool waaay down before water.
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00 MB ML55, 91 Toyota Supra Turbo(sold), 06 E500(gone), 03 BMW M3
Since everyone has thrown in there own opinions, I will throw in the directions porterfield uses, and also the same steps I have taken for my W163, which is notorious for squealling, and since I have used these directions, never again have I had to deal with less then perfect brakes.
-20 gentle slow downs from 30 to 5mph, then 10 to 20 normal stops from 35 allowing a half mile cool down between stops(I give a generous amount of cooling time, but never a half mile, depends on weather too)
never come to a full stop while braking, as sometimes completely stoping while bedding will transfer material from the pad to the rotor which will eventually lead to rotor warp. Be careful not to heat the pads up too quickly as it will harden the brake face and negatively impact performance. While coming to a complete stop you may want to engage the emergency brake.
This is my own interpretation of what porterfield suggests, and it has worked great for myself.
-Pete
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Eurocharged 2004 E500, Eurocharged ECU/TCU 2005 SL600, 2010 Caddy SwaggerWagon
Screw it!
I'm just gonna drag my feet outside the door. Flintstone style, baby.
Thanks for the input guys.
I'm just gonna drag my feet outside the door. Flintstone style, baby.
Thanks for the input guys.
