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- Mercedes-Benz E-Class: How to Replace headlights with HID
Guide to diagnose trouble and recommended solutions
HID, fog lights, headlight install guide 211 E series may work on other series models
#227
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Location: Minneapolis, St. Paul, MN
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2008 E350 4Matic
HID Kit
I hope you don't mind if I ask you a couple questions about your installation on HID fog light on your car.
I want to do on mine also but cautious about it. Did you have any errors on the comand system after you installed it? Where did you buy your HID fog light kit from? There are a tons of it on ebay and not sure which one is right for ours. They are all claimed to be. Thanks!!!
I want to do on mine also but cautious about it. Did you have any errors on the comand system after you installed it? Where did you buy your HID fog light kit from? There are a tons of it on ebay and not sure which one is right for ours. They are all claimed to be. Thanks!!!
#228
What are all of the electrical taps and sleeves you used?
I'm really a novice to this so i'm not sure what they are called, but they seem to make adding the capacitor a lot easier if you accidentally put it in the wrong direction it seems those connectors can easily come off for you to correct it.
I'm really a novice to this so i'm not sure what they are called, but they seem to make adding the capacitor a lot easier if you accidentally put it in the wrong direction it seems those connectors can easily come off for you to correct it.
#229
MBWorld Fanatic!
Just solder it, it's much easier than taps and will be vibration resistant. Just make sure you wire it the right way which isn't hard at all.
#230
#231
MBWorld Fanatic!
If you use the T taps and wire them incorrectly, then you will end up having the capacitors overheat and explode relatively quickly anyway. Take my advice having had to do this twice that you should solder it not use T taps.
#233
MBWorld Fanatic!
So with the DDMTuning kit for low beams, there is a black and red wire connected to the bulb itself which plug into the socket on the car then send power down to the ballast, where it is then sent back up to the bulb at the appropriate wattage and stable current. You do NOT modify the car's wiring, you solder it to the corresponding positive and negative power wires that come with the HID kit. If that's what you're referring to with the 2 prong wires then yes you're correct.
#234
HID Fog Lights
So here's a weird thing. I had changed my fog lights before using DDM Tuning HID Kits. I think for the money, they can't be beat, specially with the warranty they give (although they make you test it to see which part of the kit is not working well). I had 55W HID kit with Error Eliminator 4 and didn't have any issues whatsoever until a few months after I installed the kit. It worked flawlessly, until it started to flash intermittently and sometimes, I even get an error message Left Fog Light in the IC. I had another 55W 3K kit lying around so I replaced it. The funny thing, the left Fog Light keeps flashing, while the right one stays on. If I replace the bulb, the flashing is like a strobe light, if I change the ballast, the flashing is less frequent, if I change the EE, it'll stay on for a few seconds, then turn off, then turn on again, then turn off.
Finally, I got tired of having to diagnose which is which, so I bought a CANBUS ready kit (although 35W only), but it has been working fine since. I no linger get an error message nor do I get the on-off-on-off issue.
By the way, it was the same issue with my 08 BMW 5-series, it would not stop flashing until I replaced it with a CANBUS kit.
I hope this helps others who encounter this issue.
Finally, I got tired of having to diagnose which is which, so I bought a CANBUS ready kit (although 35W only), but it has been working fine since. I no linger get an error message nor do I get the on-off-on-off issue.
By the way, it was the same issue with my 08 BMW 5-series, it would not stop flashing until I replaced it with a CANBUS kit.
I hope this helps others who encounter this issue.
#235
MBWorld Fanatic!
I'm guessing a capacitor would help in that case, I have the issue sometimes with my driver's fog light on the 35W DDM-Tuning kit but it's largely been a non-issue once the bulb warms up for 30 seconds or so - I am not running capacitors on my fogs. However, I had many of those weird transient unexplainable issues with my 55w low beams. Which CANBUS ready kit did you buy?
#236
Luminous Lighting Accessories. I've always had capacitors and/or Error Eliminators (same thing really - just Plug & Play for the EE), but it still didn't help for the Left Fog. The Right Fog was ok all the time.
#237
MBWorld Fanatic!
Error Eliminators are resistors, capacitors help act like a start up battery so the ignitors can spark the bulb then pull a stable current so you don't get flickering or on/off problems. Same exact issue with my low beams.
#238
The Error Eliminators sold by DDM are capacitors and not resistors. I've opened them up already.
#239
MBWorld Fanatic!
Really? Someone from DDM told me they were resistors. Interesting... idk I think either way the lesson here is to go with CANBUS ready kits.
#240
Thanks for a great tutorial!
I am having a strange problem. I am using a 55W canbus HID kit for low beams. Before capacitors the left side did ignite approximately 5 seconds after right side and I also got error message on left side. This always happened during cold start, never on warm start.
After I soldered 4700 uF 35 V capacitors I never have any error message, but now the left side does not ignite at all on cold start. If I turn the lights off and on it will ignite on the first or second try.
I have tried to change sides of ballast and lamps and it is always the left side that will not ignite.
Any ideas how to solve this? Thanks.
I am having a strange problem. I am using a 55W canbus HID kit for low beams. Before capacitors the left side did ignite approximately 5 seconds after right side and I also got error message on left side. This always happened during cold start, never on warm start.
After I soldered 4700 uF 35 V capacitors I never have any error message, but now the left side does not ignite at all on cold start. If I turn the lights off and on it will ignite on the first or second try.
I have tried to change sides of ballast and lamps and it is always the left side that will not ignite.
Any ideas how to solve this? Thanks.
#241
MBWorld Fanatic!
Welcome to the problems associated with aftermarket HIDs that made me abandon the challenge altogether, you are describing the exact problem I had that caused me to uninstall my HIDs in the long term and get some Philips DiamondVision bulbs, never figured it out.
#242
Welcome to the problems associated with aftermarket HIDs that made me abandon the challenge altogether, you are describing the exact problem I had that caused me to uninstall my HIDs in the long term and get some Philips DiamondVision bulbs, never figured it out.
Did you (or anyone else) notice any FM radio interference after the capacitor mod?
#243
MBWorld Fanatic!
You summed up the issue completely, it will work well for part of the year, but never 100%, and when the temperatures become cold outside, the system is even more unreliable. It's a pain in the *** and whatever car I get next will definitely have HIDs or hopefully LEDs from factory, aftermarket lighting on cars that are so sensitive just doesn't seem to work, I was at a loss even with the BOW3 error eliminators. Someone suggested some fix regarding a CANBUS connection issue but no idea, never got the chance to try it.
I get my audio through my AUX cable and occasionally CDs, so honestly never listen to the radio, that's interesting though never heard that as a complaint but I can see how it's feasible
I get my audio through my AUX cable and occasionally CDs, so honestly never listen to the radio, that's interesting though never heard that as a complaint but I can see how it's feasible
#244
It is just a matter of finding the right CANBUS HID kit for your car. I have installed many of these kits and have had issues only with a W211, a W204, and an E61 BMW. These cars are very sensitive to the HID kits. None of the Error eliminators from DDM Tuning worked for these cars. They kept sending me different Error Eliminators but none worked. I went with a CANBUS kit, and they have worked very well for me.
The light output of HID is what kept me going back to find the right kit. For the E61 and W211, they were only for the fog lights but I kept looking for a kit that worked as the difference was night and day (sorry no pun intended). For the W204, it was for a headlight conversion kit, and most kits worked except when the switch was in the auto mode. All the cars I have, all have HID kits for the fogs and those that came with halogen headlight have been replaced with HID kits. None of them have start up or blinking issues anymore.
Try looking for kits with Umnitza, they may have one that'll work for you or have a return policy that will give you peace of mind trying. For CANBUS kits, I go to a local place close to me who sells them, and I have had very good luck with them.
The light output of HID is what kept me going back to find the right kit. For the E61 and W211, they were only for the fog lights but I kept looking for a kit that worked as the difference was night and day (sorry no pun intended). For the W204, it was for a headlight conversion kit, and most kits worked except when the switch was in the auto mode. All the cars I have, all have HID kits for the fogs and those that came with halogen headlight have been replaced with HID kits. None of them have start up or blinking issues anymore.
Try looking for kits with Umnitza, they may have one that'll work for you or have a return policy that will give you peace of mind trying. For CANBUS kits, I go to a local place close to me who sells them, and I have had very good luck with them.
#245
I finally installed the HID EXTRA KIT for the fogs (can-bus type), all they do is flicker.
Bought d1s and fogs in matching temps, they don't match either.
Anyone else have this problem from them?
Bought d1s and fogs in matching temps, they don't match either.
Anyone else have this problem from them?
Last edited by a100steaksauce; 06-21-2015 at 11:21 AM.
#246
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Northern California
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09' E350 AMG Sport, 09' C300, 03' Honda S2K
That a very idea, but would it be safe being the ballast stays in the headlight housing? If it is safe I am definitely be going this route instead of finding a clean spot around the engine bay.
GOOD NEWS!!!!
I just finish install a HID kit and been testing for the past weeks.. This kits does NOT require a capacitor like other kit. Its "plug and play". Only modifcation you would need to do was enlarge the stock bulb hold to fit the HID bulb. I place the HID ballast inside my headlights (there's plenty of room) for a clean oem look. Most important it DOES NOT display the error code or required you to visit the dealership to turn on the HID option (=$$$$)... Oh.. NO FLICKER with engine off and on!!!!.
Here's pictures with only one HID installed on passenger side
both installed:
Closer shot of the lights:
Finally, shot of my gauge.. look mom... NO ERROR
Enjoy.. any questions you can post here or pm me...
I just finish install a HID kit and been testing for the past weeks.. This kits does NOT require a capacitor like other kit. Its "plug and play". Only modifcation you would need to do was enlarge the stock bulb hold to fit the HID bulb. I place the HID ballast inside my headlights (there's plenty of room) for a clean oem look. Most important it DOES NOT display the error code or required you to visit the dealership to turn on the HID option (=$$$$)... Oh.. NO FLICKER with engine off and on!!!!.
Here's pictures with only one HID installed on passenger side
both installed:
Closer shot of the lights:
Finally, shot of my gauge.. look mom... NO ERROR
Enjoy.. any questions you can post here or pm me...
#247
SPONSOR/MBworld Guru
Shouldn't be an issue unless the resistance is built in the ballast. If so, heat could easily become an issue. The new Morimoto XB35 kit compartmentalized the components so you can fit slimmer ballasts as described, and leave the canbus component outside where more airflow can help dissipate heat. Let us know if interested.
#248
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09' E350 AMG Sport, 09' C300, 03' Honda S2K
Just baught a kti from OPt7 Boltzen kit, that says it has all the canbus and error code eliminator that all built in the ballast, if it doesn't work it a 30 return with no hassle free so I decided to give it a shot. I just know that some ballast runs hot and not sure if it was worth the risk of actually sticking this ballast in the headlight housing itself, but if it does fit and is safe, I really like that idea since all wires would be absolutely hidden. Where is the most common area that you guys put the ballast on the W211? thanks everyone
Last edited by charliele729; 10-17-2015 at 04:03 PM.
#249
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Location: New York City
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2014 ML63
Hi guys, winter time is coming up and would like fix my lighting system, I read this thread and read the thread to convert to from non HID to Factory HID, but ain't get a straight answer, I have a w211 e350 2006 with non factory HID's.
I would like to replace the entire headlight with factory HID's, do I get non adaptive ones or adaptive ones? plug and play besides going to the dealer to activate Xenon System on?
Thank You in advance
I would like to replace the entire headlight with factory HID's, do I get non adaptive ones or adaptive ones? plug and play besides going to the dealer to activate Xenon System on?
Thank You in advance