wolffox

I had nothing but problems with my original equipment MB brakes ( please read my prior history). I was going to sell the car because the brakes were so terrible. I now have 43000 miles on my 2005 E320 CDI and my brake problems are gone. In November 2007, I replaced the 4 rotors with original equipment MB rotors and replaced the MB pads with Akebono ceramic pads. Instantaneously, the shimmy, squeaking, and brake dust disappeared. I didn't want to say anything sooner because I read that brake shimmy could occur approximately 3000 to 5000 miles after installation. I have approximately 9000 miles on the brakes and they are everything that Akebono promised. The problem was with the pads and I drive the car as I always did. My rotors still look smooth and brand new and I can't believe the wheels don't get dirty from brake dust. I would strongly recommend the Akebono brake pads to anyone who has experienced a similar problem to mine.

benzmodz

Sounds like a problem with the wheel bearing or suspension setup. That would cause undue strain on the rotors due to the possible wobble or shake in the setup.

Wheel bearing damage can happen after just one nasty encounter with a large pothole and usually the slower the speed the worse the damage.

Have the wheel bearing replaced and the rotor. These are really throw away items and dont cost that much that it would really matter. You are better off with AMG brakes anyhow. That would make your mothers car look really cool.

In any event I hope the dealer was sensible enough to replace both front rotors and pads. You might want to check that.

lkchris

I'm making a point to never wash our car with brakes hot.

SPNJHockey

+1 !!!

LB Bnz

I think going to another dealer may be your best bet...and ask for an upgrade in brakes (sport/AMG)....

The SBC issue should be covered under warranty...

something is just not right....our brakes should last longer than what you've experienced.

good luck...

vettdvr

This is an interesting discussion. Our E500 has the origional rotors at 80,000 miles and only pads have been changed. No warping or shimmy. But I only use MB pads and change them myself while measuring the rotor thickness. At 80,000 miles I have 50% of the wear limits remaining. I might get one more pad change before changing rotors which at my estimate will be over 100,000 miles and I will use factory rotors.

PeterLech

I know this is an old thread, but I think this is important information to share:

In my experience, warped rotors are often caused by uneven torquing of the log bolts or lug nuts. Whenever I get lazy and do not retorque my wheels, thinking Costco/dealer/tire store must know what they are doing, some time later my rotors have warped.

It has never happened when I torque the bolts myself afterwards. This has happened on my Honda, Porsches, BMW and now the E350.

Torque wrenches are cheap at Harbor Freight. IMHO, it is the evenness of the tightness, not the absolute foot/lbs that is critical to prevent warping, so a 2-5% inaccuracy of a cheap torque wrench is acceptable - certainly a lot better than a torque stick used on an impact wrench.

irondad

Care to explain the cause and effect, because that seems like a pretty illogical stretch.

PeterLech

Sure. Years ago, I had a Ford van, and used to remove and reapply the wheels using a impact wrench with no problems. Weight was not an issue then, and the rotors and other brake parts were big and heavy. I bought a second gen Honda Accord in 2002, did the same with the wheels, and guess what - the rotors warped. I bought a torque wrench and had no more problems except when I did not use it. I have checked lug nut torque post shop wheel R & R since then and found a wide variation in tightness.

Cheap insurance, and takes very little time. I torque in 2 steps, 60% and then 100% of the factory spec in an every-other bolt rotation. I disagree with Costco who torques in sequence of 1-2-3-4-5.