Hey All,

I'm thinking about replacing my rotors to slotted/drilled ones...I'm not going to BBK just want the look when I put the rims on really. Can anyone recommend some to buy? Anything I should look out for when buying the rotors?

Thanks for the help!

 

Try here :www.irotors.com.I put them on my C230K, no problems.

 

I put these on my E500 and they were warped in about 5 thousand miles. I would stay away from them. I too wanted a slotted/drilled rotor for aesthetic reasons. I am now on my 3rd set in the last the 10K miles. I've since purchased MB OEM rotors and pads. I would stay away from the other stuff for our cars. I know it's not what you wanted to hear but I've already done it, and paid dearly for it. I don't know if it's the SBC system or what, but I've had nothing but back luck with non-OEM brake parts.

See previous post about iRotors:

https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...hlight=irotors


My .02

 

Porterfield has Drilled, Slotted rotors the set I have are Zimmerman rotors look great and work great haven't had a squeek since installed.

 

You might want look into the 2007-2008 sport package rotors; they are drilled, look relatively cool, and are OEM quality. Just be sure they are the correct size for your car.

 

If I remember correctly, did your rotors warp again after you swapped back to OEM?

 

The events are as follows:

44K miles - Original OEM warped - swapped with iRotors
50K miles - iRotors are completely toast - sapped with OEM spec rotors, but not purchased from MB
56K miles - OEM spec rotors are warped - purchased OEM rotors from MB. Awaiting installation

 

I thought we discussed this in another thread that your rotors warped probably due to lug bolts being torqued way beyond the reccomended 95lb torque.

As an FYI, though not available yet for the MB, the best rotors I installed on my Ford Expedition are IMHO cryogenically coated slotted rotors; unbelievable. No rust; great stopping power and always look brand new. I used akibono ceramic pads.

 

Yep, we did. And those were the OEM spec rotors. The OP was asking about slotted/drilled and someone mentioned iRotors. I was stating that my experience with iRotors was not a good one, as they were extremely warped at 5K miles and had nothing to do with over tightened lug nuts.

 

Thanks for the clarification because I thought that since you experienced warpage from both iRotors and OEM, that led me to believe that the quality of each piece was not that far from one another.

 

No problem, but keep in mind that the set of rotors after the iRotors were not OEM, but rather OEM-SPEC rotors. However, the last set that I purchased were true OEM rotors from a dealership. Those are sitting in my garage awaiting installation.

 

Hey Benzo, so you went back to OEM's an not drilled slotted rotors? I definitely don't want to spend $$$ and have the rotors warp after 5k miles. That's such a waste of money.

Thanks for the heads up on iRotors!

 

Yes sir. I just purchased true OEM rotors and pads about a week and a half ago. I'm debating whether or not to do the job myself. My hookup at the dealer who did this for me under the table is no longer an option.

By the way, if you want to go OEM again, PM me. I have a hookup on parts

 

Porterfield will also cryo treat the Rotors, As I understand Zimmerman Rotors are OEM standard or better and do come from Germany.

 

NICE!

 

Any problem with the rotors rusting? I had this happen on a set of Brembo rotors I bought. While the rust on the brake contact surface goes away as soon as you use the brakes, the rust on the "hats" and the rotor edges remains, and those areas are somewhat visible through some wheel designs.

 

I have not had any problems, of course it has been pretty dry here in NorCal. I just ordered new pads for the rear from Porterfield. The brake dust reduction is noticable.

 

cyro treating anything is just a gimmick.

 

http://www.cryogenicsinternational.com/rotors.htm
What is Deep Cryogenic Treating / Stress Relieving?
Any cast or manufactured part has some built in internal stresses and brake rotors and pads are no exception. This is why rotors can warp just by sitting on the shelf.

The most effective way to completely eliminate these stresses is to do it in the controlled environment of a computerized deep cryogenic treatment system. CI’s controlled deep cryogenic treatment system and process is capable of treating a wide variety of materials, such as ferrous and non-ferrous metals, metallic alloys, carbides, plastics (including nylon and Teflon) and ceramics. The entire process takes between 36 to 74 hours, depending on the weight and type of material being treated. In the case of steel and its alloys, cryogenic treatment removes the built-in kinetic energy of atoms, which is the energy of motion. There is a normal attraction between atoms that makes them want to get together. But their energy of motion keeps them apart unless that energy is removed by low temperature cooling.

This special process is not a surface treatment; it affects the entire mass of the brake rotor, drum or pad being treated, making it stress free and stronger throughout. The hardness of the material treated is unaffected, while its strength is actually increased. This eliminates the danger of heat cracks, chipping and breaking. An additional benefit of the CI process is the elimination of vibrations caused by stresses in the rotor.

In steel, the CI treatment at temperatures of (-320°F) transforms soft austenite into hard martensite. This transformation improves rotor surface wear and heat resistance; more miles can be driven before costly changes are required. This reduces the changeover rate of the rotors, thus improving the over-all life, and saving on vehicle downtime and labor. In general, a forty percent reduction in heat is seen after brake rotors, pads, and calipers are deep cryogenically treated.

 

Explain.

 

Anybody know anything about these rotors?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...spagenameZWDVW

 

Many of the low priced exotic rotors on Ebay start life as low priced OEM "equivalent" replacements which are "improved" via drilling, slotting, or some combination thereof by these rotor companies. While appealing to look at when new, the rotors were never designed for these "improvements" and will perform accordingly. I would venture that some may actually be dangerous due to large amounts of metal being removed which they were never designed for. They will also rust after the thin spray on coatings wear off.

Unless you plan to do track days with your E, I would stay with OEM brake parts.

 

Well said and I couldn't agree more. Either stick with OEM or get HIGH quality aftermarket. Stay away from the eBay specials. This is coming from somebody that has already fallen for this twice. I'm now back to OEM for a reason.

 

Freezing to align the metal molecules... Kind of like using a magnet to align the gas molecules for greater gas milage. I still dont buy the science and its a debated topic like if humans have caused global warming.

Back in the day I used to race electric R/C cars, a few people would swear by using cyro treated motors. If it made a difference in the life of the motor it had to be small since they didnt last any longer than the rest of us.

Ask them if they can treat your knifes also.