- Mercedes Benz E Class How to Replace Fuel Filter
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
HERE IS E320 Cdi Fuel Filter Change Procedure
MB in Walnut Creek CA quoted $180 for the labor not including misc. clamps.
Dealer quote for fuel filter $75.
My cost $45 for the fuel filter from mileoneparts.com
1) REMOVE DRIVER SIDE PLASTIC ENGINE COVER, YOU WILL NEED TORX DRIVE

2)AN OLD DIRTY FUEL FILTER (89K MILES ON IT).

3)UNDO THE FUEL LINES. YOU WILL HAVE TO USE NEEDLE NOSE PLYIERS TO TAKE OFF THE OLD CLAMPS. I REPLACED MINE WITH REGULAR FUEL CLAMPS FROM AUTOZONE, SO FAR THEY WORK GREAT!

4)UNDO THE TORX SCREW ON THE BRACKET AND REMOVE THE FILTER. I ALSO REMOVED THE BRACKET TO SAND IT DOWN AND PAINT IT.

5)GENTLEY PULL OUT THE WATER SENSOR FROM THE OLD FUEL FILTER. CHANGE THE SEALS AND INSTALL IN ON THE NEW FILTER. APPLY SOME DIESEL ON THE SEALS SO THE SENSOR WOULD SLIDE IN EASY.

6)NEW FUEL FILTER WITH SENSOR INSTALLED.

7)REINSTALL EVERYTHING BACK. THIS IS THE FINISHED WORK WITH ALL THE FILTER AND ALL THE CLAMPS REPLACED, BRACKET REPAINTED.


8)THAT'S IT FOR THE HARD PART, NOW PUT THE KEY IN POSITION 2 AND HOLD IT THERE FOR 30SEC. RETURN THE KEY TO POSITION 0 AND START THE CAR.
Last edited by BLACKCDI; Oct 31, 2007 at 10:36 PM.
Noticed you installed the old part number 646 092 06 01. It has been superseded by 646 092 07 01 according to the EPC (MBUSA's online electronic parts catalog available at http://www.startekinfo.com). But the changes might be small or unimportant....
Noticed you installed the old part number 646 092 06 01. It has been superseded by 646 092 07 01 according to the EPC (MBUSA's online electronic parts catalog available at http://www.startekinfo.com). But the changes might be small or unimportant....
Will install the new one in 30k miles
The 06 01 was the newer part number than the original filter. Thanks for the ETK website, this is what I've been looking for!
Why can't there be a simple and free version of this BMW http://www.realoem.com website for MB parts?
Hate going to the dealer every time I have to find out the MB part number I need

Why can't there be a simple and free version of this BMW http://www.realoem.com website for MB parts?
Hate going to the dealer every time I have to find out the MB part number I need

Alternatively for filters and such, one could also use the fast moving parts catalog, a much simpler, but free version.
http://www.mbwholesaleparts.com/fmpc/parts/index.jsp
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Alternatively for filters and such, one could also use the fast moving parts catalog, a much simpler, but free version.
http://www.mbwholesaleparts.com/fmpc/parts/index.jsp
Last edited by BLACKCDI; Nov 2, 2007 at 01:13 AM.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Thanks
As far as the clamps go, I would think that the original ones are more guaranteed to stay over long term than the ones tightened by screws wich may come loose with time as either the hoses dry up and shrink or the screws themselves come undone.
I have heard that sometimes the original ones break or are hard to work with, but new ones from the same place you bought the filters from would probably be a good idea.
Screw-type clamps will either be undertightened or overtightened. There is no published torque spec for screw-type clamps.
Last edited by BLACKCDI; Nov 27, 2007 at 11:20 PM.
Yeah those sping loaded things are quite thin and I could see them rusting out and failing as you said. In fact I have read several posts where people say that they fell apart while they tried to remove them. That's not a good confidence as to their potentially expected life.
The screw clamps have been around for quite some time. Maybe as a matter of safety the screw head contact with the clamp can be potted (use nail polish for example), so as to prevent the screw from getting loose.
As everything else a routine inspection is always a good idea.
Last edited by guanabara; Nov 28, 2007 at 04:24 PM.
Last edited by jimbo1mcm; Mar 8, 2008 at 07:26 AM.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CLIC-...QQcmdZViewItem
Last edited by jimbo1mcm; Mar 8, 2008 at 04:58 PM.
The biggest challenge was simply loosening the rubber hoses off the inlet and outlet for the filter. I did buy a Clic-R wrench off Ebay for roughly $22.50 and that helped tremendously but the hoses still take some work to get off the fittings. The wrench had an auction title of "VW/Audi/Mercedes Benz Clic-R Collar Pliers Tool Clamper".
I am amazed that the local dealer was going to charge me 3 hours of labor and another $50 in parts. All in it was going to be roughly $350. When I went to the dealer parts counter to buy the Clic-R clamps to replace the filter myself the guy came back and shared that a mechanic had told him that the book value is 3 hours but they often spend more time than that and they wouldn't recommend a shade tree mechanic try this particular fix. I now wonder if they didn't want me to learn how easy of maintenance this actually is because it would make them look bad!
So, if you are handy and don't want to give up much of your annual savings in fuel costs, definitely replace the fuel filter yourself every 2 years or 20,000 miles!
Regards,
Trevor
The biggest challenge was simply loosening the rubber hoses off the inlet and outlet for the filter. I did buy a Clic-R wrench off Ebay for roughly $22.50 and that helped tremendously but the hoses still take some work to get off the fittings. The wrench had an auction title of "VW/Audi/Mercedes Benz Clic-R Collar Pliers Tool Clamper".
I am amazed that the local dealer was going to charge me 3 hours of labor and another $50 in parts. All in it was going to be roughly $350. When I went to the dealer parts counter to buy the Clic-R clamps to replace the filter myself the guy came back and shared that a mechanic had told him that the book value is 3 hours but they often spend more time than that and they wouldn't recommend a shade tree mechanic try this particular fix. I now wonder if they didn't want me to learn how easy of maintenance this actually is because it would make them look bad!
So, if you are handy and don't want to give up much of your annual savings in fuel costs, definitely replace the fuel filter yourself every 2 years or 20,000 miles!
Regards,
Trevor
It's good that you replaced the CLIC clamps with new ones, as WIS specifies. Use of screw-type clamps is prohibited and really stupid, as the only guarantee that comes with them is that you'll either get them too tight or too loose.
I recently got a free filter on the OM642, as my paid-for installation at 20K miles failed a little less than a year later. A little diesel leak goes a long way as far as smell goes.
The first diagnosis was a defective filter, but then they eventually ended up replacing every hose attached to it (warranty). The mechanics at my dealership are top notch and award winners, and I agree 100% with the DIY caution you were given.
Every other service is indeed the change interval.











