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What I didn't understand is the price for oil and oil filter change (£244 - Service A with visual checks). I can get Shell 5ltr oil for £29.95 (if I get two it'll be lets say rounded fig of £60.00), Oil filter, Air filter, Fuel filter and charcoal activated pollen filter all costs £57.00 (OE NOS: OIL 6421800009/AIR(set) 6420940404/FUEL 6460920001/ POLLEN 2118300018); total of £117. Another point to be noted; MB service site also suggest in Service A or B, it will be on MB dealer discretion if they use genuine parts or not.
Then why does MB charge so much? I simply don't understand.
What I didn't understand is the price for oil and oil filter change (£244 - Service A with visual checks). I can get Shell 5ltr oil for £29.95 (if I get two it'll be lets say rounded fig of £60.00), Oil filter, Air filter, Fuel filter and charcoal activated pollen filter all costs £57.00 (OE NOS: OIL 6421800009/AIR(set) 6420940404/FUEL 6460920001/ POLLEN 2118300018); total of £117. Another point to be noted; MB service site also suggest in Service A or B, it will be on MB dealer discretion if they use genuine parts or not.
Then why does MB charge so much? I simply don't understand.
the first $150 an hour of service comes with;
a free $1 cup of coffee,
a free $2.50 bagel,
a free $30 rental car,
a free $75 18 months of roadside service.
Now the second $150 hour of service is a complete rip off!
I keep reading people say they drained 8.0 to 8.5 quarts from there car. I have never, after changing a whole lot of oil, been able to drain out what i put in. I always check, in car that have dipsticks, the oil before i drain. Once i put the oil back in the car i use the container from oil i just put into the vehicle. I have never experienced the container being as full as it was when the new oil was in the container, I just change my oil on my E500 and the indicator did not indicate it being low. I put in 8 quarts. When i put the old oil in the containers, i only could fill the 1 5 quart container and 2 of the single quarts totaling 6 quarts. This has been my experience on all oil changes i have done. I only drive the recommended miles between changes. How is everyone getting out what they put in? I know on my other cars the dipsticks says full before i start and i never fill my containers.
I put in 8 quarts. When i put the old oil in the containers, i only could fill the 1 5 quart container and 2 of the single quarts totaling 6 quarts. This has been my experience on all oil changes i have done. I only drive the recommended miles between changes.
(Well, 5+2=7, not 6, but that's still less.) Your filter housing will have some in it.
I have a different issue: 8.5 quarts used in the oil change, but oil level readout in a level, running E500 shows 7.1 litres on the dash.
What's the normal dash reading for oil level? It isn't telling me that that's too low, but I'm wondering.
Great stuff on oil changes! However, I am mystified by what oil viscosity to use. I am in NY state and my local dealer says 0-30 or 40 synthetic. I bought a bunch of Mobil One 5W-30at Costco thinking it would be OK for the climate - I didn't know they even made viscosities as low as 0. Can anyone help on this?
Thankx
Great stuff on oil changes! However, I am mystified by what oil viscosity to use. I am in NY state and my local dealer says 0-30 or 40 synthetic. I bought a bunch of Mobil One 5W-30at Costco thinking it would be OK for the climate - I didn't know they even made viscosities as low as 0. Can anyone help on this?
Thankx
assuming that you have a gasoline engine, here's the list of approved oils and viscosities: http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.5_en.html . If you have a diesel, look at Sheet 229. 51. The bottom line is that certain mobil products at 5w30 are approved, but the only mobil 1s that they seem to approve are 0w40 or 0w30 and 5w40. If you have a 5w30, maybe it's one of those other named mobil products on the list. I think you'll find that most of us use quite happily the Mobil 1 0w-40 euro formula. You can get that at Walmart these days.
Can someone confirm the engine oil pan drain nut torque is 30Nm or 265 In Lbs or 22 Ft Lbs on a W211 M112.9 (2095 E320)?
The MB WIS calls something a "oil drain screw in oil pan" but I'm not sure if this is the actual engine oil pan drain bolt or not? It also calls it out as a 14mm when mine was a 12mm and I never got to 22 Ft Lbs I was afraid I was going to strip it.
Can someone confirm the engine oil pan drain nut torque is 30Nm or 265 In Lbs or 22 Ft Lbs on a W211 M112.9 (2095 E320)?
The MB WIS calls something a "oil drain screw in oil pan" but I'm not sure if this is the actual engine oil pan drain bolt or not? It also calls it out as a 14mm when mine was a 12mm and I never got to 22 Ft Lbs I was afraid I was going to strip it.
Can someone confirm the engine oil pan drain nut torque is 30Nm or 265 In Lbs or 22 Ft Lbs on a W211 M112.9 (2095 E320)?
The MB WIS calls something a "oil drain screw in oil pan" but I'm not sure if this is the actual engine oil pan drain bolt or not? It also calls it out as a 14mm when mine was a 12mm and I never got to 22 Ft Lbs I was afraid I was going to strip it.
There, you have a third name: drain screw/bolt/plug......same thing. Key word is DRAIN. The bolt is 13mm and torque is 22 ft/lbs although you can go slightly less with a new washer. 12mm for engine drain is very unusual. Ensure you are not mistakenly attacking the transmission pan drain screw, which is smaller. Cavaet: I am going by the Eng. 648 series on model 211 and the older 126's
Originally Posted by Cambz
Anybody actually know what the oil drain bolt torque specs are?
There, you have a third name: drain screw/bolt/plug......same thing. Key word is DRAIN. The bolt is 13mm and torque is 22 ft/lbs although you can go slightly less with a new washer. 12mm for engine drain is very unusual. Ensure you are not mistakenly attacking the transmission pan drain screw, which is smaller. Cavaet: I am going by the Eng. 648 series on model 211 and the older 126's
Thanks Brbhan,
I did an oil change last night and the bolt head is 13 mm, my mistake. Also transmission drain pan is a Allen wrench/key so there's no way to confuse the two.
On the torque spec I know the WIS calls for 22ft lbs but with the Mobil1 0-40 oil on the threads I feel the bolt slips to easy on the threads and you have to over tighten the bolt to achieve 22ft lbs with oily threads. I did test the torque before removing the bolt and it was more than 22ft lbs. When reinstalling the bolt I compared different torque settings against the feel of hand tightening the bolt starting at 15 ft lbs and going up, and I feel that 20-21 ft lbs is about the right torque with oily threads.
Quote: "..........I did test the torque before removing the bolt and it was more than 22ft lbs......"
Keep in mind that 22 fp on warm oil pan will feel like 30 when pan cools off
What happens if you change the oil filter first? If you remove the oil filter, will oil spill all over the place? Or just keep some newspaper and rags handy be prepared for just some dripping oil as you remove the oil filter?
You answered your own question in the latter half of same.
With engine OFF, oil is NOT under pressure and will, therefore, not 'spill all over the place'. Just sneak in a plastic bag to catch drips as you pull out the filter assembly.
Filter can hold about half qt of oil.
Brands such as MANN are supplied w/three O-rings that should be replaced on afore-mentioned assembly..
Generally, it is beneficial to air out (remove) filter assembly as well as loosen engine oil fill-cover. Reason: allows air to replace drained oil, thus aiding the procedure.
Caveat:: my comment/knowledge is limited to 2006 211 diesel engine.
Originally Posted by Sam52
What happens if you change the oil filter first? If you remove the oil filter, will oil spill all over the place? Or just keep some newspaper and rags handy be prepared for just some dripping oil as you remove the oil filter?
you clearly have a garage!!!! (I would do the same thing if I had one too!!)
what kind of mileage to you get with your car? is it quick?
I wish that they would put that engine in the wagon.
Yeah I live in a condo with U G parking so DIY is out of the realm. I heard to make sure you do NOT overfill. There is a SB about this. MB motors do not like to drink more than they are supposed to.
I'm not sure if I post in this thread but I initially wanted to use a fumoto valve on the drain pan but because of the lip it wasn't a go.
I just did an oil change while changing out the thermostat and temp sensor. I installed a Stalbus oil drain valve a year or so ago. (Should have taken a picture the other night when doing the oil). But it's super easy. Pretty much no mess in getting your hands dirty.
I even have the same one but with a safety wire cap for my motorcycle. It's very good quality. I still prefer fumoto however, this is a nice alternative.
01-02-2015, 12:09 PM
