MBNUT1

Changing the subject slightly how many of you with 17 in wheels find the the car wants to tramline or follow worn surfaces in the road. I drive on I75 which sees a lot of interstate truck traffic. With my Audi it would follow the grooves if you will in the road until I replaced the Dunlaps with new Michelins. The E350 is all over the road (somewhat of an exageration but it doesn't trackl as well as my A4 which is very unMercedeslike in my experience) with the OEM Contis. I concerned even with new tires the 245/45/17 are still going wander. Whats your experience/ recommendations?

vettdvr

I have noticed that when the road is grooved / worn where normal traffic rolls, it does want to track in the groove.

JK63MB

Florida roads are crowned a little higher for rapid rain removal. Find a road without a center divider and repeat your test with the car over the high point of the road.

MercBimmerman

This has to be one of the most ridiculous things I've ever heard. This and when I used to sell computer systems and customers couldn't understand after they plugged the printer in it wouldn't work. They would plug the power cord in, but didn't purchase a chord to link it to the computer

Where do they find these people to work at Mercedes dealerships? Right off the street corner.

vettdvr

Set right wheel caster my guess 1 degree more positive than left and be within total cross caster limits it will probably drive straight. Most shops want to set everything exactly in the middle of the caster limits which will guarantee a right pull.

MercBimmerman

I see. But if I had any alignment issues after the shop was finished I would take it back for them to make another adjustment. But the OP said the service associate was telling him all Mercedes pull to the right.

vettdvr

The pull to the right when everything is set in the center of the range. If this is where you set it, then it will pull right.

But if you adjust right wheel to high side but within range it will compensate and drive straight. It's is pure bunk to believe someone builds a car that won't drive straight.

MercBimmerman

So would you adjust the right front camber +/- .5 degrees until it's not pulling?

vettdvr

Yes. If the range was - 1.5 to + 1.5 and the center is 0 most shops set on 0.

There is also a total cross camber which varies for each car.

Assume cross camber total is 2.5.

You could set right side to +1.3 and left side to -0.7 for total cross of 2.0 be within the total 2.5 AND still be both L and R within the - 1.5 to + 1.5

This was example for undersanding only. You can ask what is the range on camber AND ask what is total cross camber limits to see how much range you can work with. Remember if it is -1.5 to + 1.5 the center is 0 but you don't have to set 0 that is why they give you a range so you can set it to drive the way you want.

Most shops won't tell you this they only show you green numbers to show you are "in range' but it may not drive straight. It is way easier to say "they all drive that way" than to take the time to make the proper caster settings and drive it then recheck / drive again. So this might cost you more, but it really should not.

MercBimmerman

I've also read that if your differential sub frame mounts are failing badly that, of course, could cause alignment issues. But logic or by design you would think this would happen under acceleration & deceleration.

vettdvr

My alignmentis based on car in satisfactory condition. If you have mechanical problems you must fix them 1st.

MercBimmerman

Of course, that's common sense or common practice by shops.

But the rear sub frame mounts might be something that could be overlooked since most people are familiar with ball joints, tie rods, and or control arm bushings as likely or commonly known failing parts.

Just something for one to consider if still scratching their heads after replacing all the front end parts.

chrisxiao

I put in a set of radial tyre(directional tire) at costco. MB did alighnment. Notice pulling to passenger side a lot, they rotate the tires and gets better, still pull to the side. They said it is recommended to use non-directional tire and not after market tire.

Now, when I drive a straight center lane, I notice the steering wheel will turn away from center position towards right, and the car pulls to the passenger side.

Can the SetBack be adjusted for each front wheel?

MercBimmerman

Sounds like you may have a bad lower ball joint. Of course it wont show up in the alignment, once weight is on the vehicle then it changes. If you're getting things like tracking or it follows uneven surfaces on the road and your tie rods are good then that may be the issue. No accidents right? And no dents or ripples on the frame rails?

SavMan

This is funny, in the UK Mercedes have a reputation for pulling to the left

MercBimmerman

It's because in the US our passenger girl friends are getting too fat.
We need RHD.

bashar94

I have been facing the same problem where the car is pulling to the right.
I got the car into the MB agency, and they fixed the readings(Toe, caster and camber), but the pulling is still. It is really frustrating and is driving joyless!!!

vettdvr

sure and they probably tell you everything is in the green and center of range. And there is your problem. I have written on this too many times before. Go to a real shop that can align a front end and this can be fixed. The problem is MB dealers put everything on center but don't build 100% of their cars identical. Increase the right front caster, stay within total cross caster.

MBNUT1

The other possibility is that it is the tires. I have had pull problems that were corrected by the tires.

vettdvr

I changed 3 sets of tires only alignment fixed mine. IF you have tire pull you have a defective tire and it should be replaced.

K-Mac

Ex-factory there is only front and rear Toe adjustment for virtually all Mercedes 1968 to current models (and same with Chrysler Crossfire and 300C etc).

We saw the need and were the very first company to manufacture precisely adjustable front Camber and Caster bushing kits with twice the adjustment range of the basic one setting offset bolts.

Then for the rear, K-MAC Camber adjuster kits, which have the advantage (unlike upper adjustable arms/DIY kits) of not moving the top of the tire outwards when adjusting to resolve premature inner edge wear - which is an important factor to prevent tires scuffing outer fenders if wide profile tires/rims fitted.

Another advantage with K-MAC rear kits - unlike spherical bearings used in these upper arm kits, there is no harsh metal to metal contact and 20 years of the proven design - there’s certainly no squeaks.

Also all K-MAC rear Camber adjusters include extra Toe adjustment which is essential to compensate accurately for the new Camber facility!

The K-MAC patented design front kits replace the 4 main suspension bushes - the unique 2 axis/self aligning design also doubles the load bearing area thereby increasing wear life and also steering and braking response.

Similar design is used for the 4 main rear K-MAC bushings.

Result is precise single wrench front and rear (ongoing) adjustment to return vehicle to factory specs to improve traction, compensate for steering pull, costly inner edge tire wear through altering height, fitting wide profile tires, load carrying, curb-knock damage and/or the advantage of being able to alter specs, improve lap times on track days and with genuine K-MAC you also do not need to purchase special fitting tools.

Product confidence with K-MAC is further assured by our total, ongoing commitment to motor racing – all out 10/10ths competition testing keeps K-MAC products always at the forefront re cutting edge technology, proven strength and durability.