When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
2006 E350 W211 110,xxx miles
This is the second time in 3 weeks this display popped up. 1st time I was driving, raining, mid 80's temp in Tampa Bay area. 2nd time wife driving sunny mid 80's clear day. Both times only symptom was tightness in steering. Display went away steering returned to normal. I did a little research on possible issues. I connected my ICarSoft I980 this morning and did a automatic scan and a individual scan on ABS and ESP and no faults. I'm not looking to fix something that's not broken but trying to stay ahead of a failure. Any comments on why???
Second, I saw where the ABS/ESP can be turned off but the experts suggest not to. I've been driving for 50 years and most vehicles I drove didn't have ABS-ESP control. Would this car act any differently than a car manufactured without ABS/ESP if I turned it off?? Can it be easily turned back on?
My main issue is the cost of a replacement ABS controller thingamabob. "IF THE ABS SYSTEM FAILED CAN I JUST TURN IT OFF AND CONTINUE DRIVING??
I think you're way overthinking things. Sure you may have driven for 50 years without ABS and ESP, but you know what happened without those? People got into accidents although you might not have. Just less accidents in general with those systems than without. We're just talking probability here, not your specific case. And the probability is that the ABS won't go although there are occasional reports on it. The complicating factor here is that you have SBC which is covered by a 25 year extended warranty. If you have a brake problem, they might replace the ABS as part of the entire repair. If it's ABS only, then maybe not. You do have the worse year, not only do you have the balance shaft issue, but M272 will also run into issues with the intake manifold at some point, you should make sure the oil separator/breather cover gets changed out as that may contribute to the oil gumming up the intake flaps which require is why you'll need to change the intake manifold at some point. You also have the expired 15 year extended warranty on the fuel tank.
I changed the brake pedal switch on the weekend and it seems to have solved the brake warning issue on the dashboard. Hopefully that warning light stays off.
Hi HINRG65... no, my fault did not have any knock-on impact on the power steering. It's just a theory but the power steering on my 2004 car feels all angry and old fashioned like it might be hydraulic power steering. Potentially it was something they changed on later w211 models?
Can someone please advise correct part number for 2006 E350 BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH. I've tried to source and told that these part number, A0015459609, A0015454409, do not apply to this model & year. TIA
Can someone please advise correct part number for 2006 E350 BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH. I've tried to source and told that these part number, A0015459609, A0015454409, do not apply to this model & year. TIA
Post your vin or get a knock off copy of the WIS/EPC on eBay and look it up yourself with EPC.
When I bought my replacement switch the supplier (aftermarket parts retailer) said there were two types available. One was £8 and the other was £25. I bought them both and then returned the one I didn't use. In my case it was the cheaper one which is similar to what you can see in the diagram above.
Thanks to those who responded to my messages on this issue. I replaced the rear brake light switch, part# 011-545-40-90, and the ABS and ESP lights are gone and no further power steering limp mode. This board is invaluable and thank you.
I have a similiar problem with my 2004 e500. Changed pads/rotors to sloted/drilled rotors front and rear. After reviewing threads posted here, decided to tackle brakes myself rather than get raped. Rears went on fine-no problem. I made the mistake of taking the four torx head bolts out of one side of the front caliper. After realizing I had made a mistake-I decided to go ahead and finish job. Put everything back together, changed other side without taking caliper apart, changed pads, etc. Filled brake fluid reservoir and turned key on. When I went to put car into reverse, got two warning messages that braking system wasn't working properly-needed servicing. I think I may need to bleed brakes probably due to air in line when I took caliper apart but I don't know how to go about it. Secondly, I didn't change sensors because they were not worn(only one sensor on right rear-no left rear sensor present-is this normal?) Could this be a contributing factor to my error messages? Thanks-I am really learning a lot about my car on this website-more so than anyone I have talked to-thanks again. Also-can anyone tell me where the SBC switch is located and whether or not it needs to be deactivated while working on brakes. Several people on this forum have said yes, others no. I didn't on mine simply because I didn't know where it was.
just start from drivers side rear the n go to passenger side rear then drivers side front and then passenger side front. You will need a helper to pump brakes 3 times and on third time open fitting on brake caliper tell them to hold it to floor on third pump and tell the not to let it up till you tighten fitting. Repeat on remaking brakes. Check fluid after each brake
I am currently a service consultant at a Mercedes Benz dealer in Florida. If you are experiencing "Brake Visit workshop" illuminating in red its most likely either your brake pads have worn to the wear sensors or the SBC unit (Sensotronic Brake Control) has failed and is due for replacement. Just so you know MBUSA has an extended warranty on this part for most 211 models. This will even cover vehicles that are way out of warranty. Shoot me your vin and mileage at DZupkosky@courtesycars.com. I will run your vin and tell you if it is a covered component. Most dealer will have you sign for a diag charge of about $120 but if it is that component then have saved about $1000 in the long run. 99% of independant shops have no idea what they are doing when replacing/diagnosing MB models equipped with this high tech braking unit. If you try the do it yourself method of replacing your brake make sure you disable this unit by a computer SDS or by unplugging the SBC unit. I've also heard there are some systems out there that are made just to disable and enable this system. Make sure the independant knows what they are doing otherwise they will do an unneeded job and you will have the same error message and you will have to visit the dealer. Hope some of this info helps
Hi just wondered if you can do me a favor.
My SBC in my 2006 has a fault code dealership says unit needs replacing VIN is WDB2110702A875781 can you confirm the correct SBC part number for this vehicle.
many thanks
I am trying with MB for them to replace it . I live in New Zealand and I know MB NZ have replaced these in the past but they have declined me at this stage though I am going to push them on it as they didn't give a reason. Over here we have a thing called the small claims court that I may resort to. I may also call MB Germany.
Anyway if it all fails I will need the part number if its not too much trouble. Many thanks
"If you are experiencing "Brake Visit workshop" illuminating in red its most likely either your brake pads have worn to the wear sensors or the SBC unit (Sensotronic Brake Control) has failed and is due for replacement."
Swing and miss. My dealer told me the same thing and after an express visit had my vehicle lined up for $8000+ of repairs. I authorized a valve cover gasket change. They broke the cover and put it all back together for $1300. Oh boy. Poop on me.
6 mos later doing my own piecemeal work:
Bad SAM causing CAN failures The ECU and SAM were not communicating engine, transmission and ESP codes resulting in dash warnings. I used this dx tool: https://www.youcanic.com/scanner/
The scanner consistently skipped over engine, trans and ESP suggesting CAN communication issues. All of the CAN communication is routed through the central gateway module. Working directly with the YOUCANIC rep I was able to logically eliminate the usual suspects.
Ebay for used SAM from Lithuania...$45 delivered in 2 weeks. Swap out and after clearing old codes x2 OBD, ECU and SAM communicated and no fault codes present.
$45 for new SAM, $150 for ECU diag, $550 for YOUCANIC=$745 and I keep the OBD. You know, I've never worked on a car in my life. I'm white collar ignorant and Ray at YOUCANIC saved me $1000's and the job got done.
Can your dealership beat that?
What I have learned:
Don't fly blind. Get a OBD. I suggest YOUCANIC. One can work with pros whose suggestions are for your situational context. STAR dx won't talk to you.
If a repair shop does not want to deal with your MB they will not admit it. They will inflate the estimate making it financially prohibitive to proceed. If you proceed Lord knows what you will be in for. If you decline, shops will let you drive away in an unsafe vehicle maintaining plausible deniability of malfeasance.
MB is a good brand and isn't what the local independents prefer to deal with. MB doesn't run on dark energy regardless of what any shop,dealer or otherwise, says. It's a car but if you're a noob like me get suited up with some diag tools and assemble a trustworthy posse of advisors. I had a local shop help me with brake issues for $1000 that other shops estimated starting at $3500 up to $5000++.
Just to confirm:
You would recommend 'youcanic'?
Was there a steep learning curve?
No to the steep learning curve.
Yes to YOUCANIC.
Downside: The YOUCANIC scanner algorithm performs differently than the AUTOZONE-type scanner. I experienced different DTC's from different scanners. For example, the YOUCANIC scanner reads: "930E Stored&Current Synchronization of the DTC memory cannot be ensured" while the local AUTOZONE gave me a variety of P2314 P2315 P2316 CAN bus timeout DTC's. The specific PXXXX DTC's are more helpful as they lead me to specific modules to pull, test or replace. In my situation, the car has frustrated my key smith and the scanner has been skipping specific CAN-C modules. I can't inactivate the SBC system or airmatics as there is no communication...which renders the YOUCANIC no better than a cheap scanner. The CAN system needs fixing though the YOUCANIC isn't very helpful AMT IRT the auto parts store scanner.
The ATUOZONE scanner skipped DTC's that YOUCANIC located.
YOUCANIC scans in position one: vehicle on, engine off. Other scanners function with engine on. There's a difference in how they analyze the vehicle which I don't fully understand.
The YOUCANIC scanner is specific with the DTC's it reads. I've saved a lot on little switch replacements. The moral of the story: YOUCANIC works, and works on all my vehicles, is cheaper than STAR-system though get a second opinion scanner.
My EIS is suspect. The key smith has had problems and the keys are fussy. YOUCANIC did not indicate an EIS fault. AUTOZONE did. The ECU and front SAM check out good.
ECU-PRO offers analysis on EIS which takes a week or so. The car runs and that's good enough for me ATM. I'll pull the EIS when the weather warms and ride my bike to work.
Have a great day!
Last edited by Doingmybest; 02-20-2024 at 08:31 AM.
06-10-2015, 12:06 PM
