Here we are a year later (wow time flies), and it's interesting to notice that Canadian Tire now makes crystal clear that the Eliminator Ultra version is AGM (saying so right on the front of the battery), and makes a clear differentiation between the "flooded" and "AGM" batteries in its size and model list. Everyone can now see the 14-BS Motomaster Eliminator Ultra in its recent size chart: http://s7d5.scene7.com/is/content/Ca...sspecs14349_en

They were probably hurting themselves by not making the AGM aspects of the Eliminator Ultra clearer in their marketing. I'm impressed with how our friend esaldanha has negotiated the issues with his wagon in Canada, where this forum can be a little short on the kind of information that makes it so valuable ("go to this store and get this part number for this price", etc.), and is now enjoying his ride!

 

For what it's worth in these very cold, battery-challenging times:

From now through 2/28/15, PEP BOYS is offering the BOSCH H8/Group 49 Platinum Series Battery for 35% off, if ordered online and picked up in the store. Use code SECRET35 at checkout. That makes the battery a little more than $130 plus tax. And there's also a rebate from Bosch.

That's one good deal for an excellent AGM battery for our cars.

 

Thats a good deal might just do it as my battery is showing its age on the cold mornings.

 

The SECRET35 buy-online-pick-up-in-store deal has been extended until 3/7. I was thinking about the AC/Delco Group 49 at Amazon for $145, but this is a better deal for the Bosch Platinum AGM H8/Group49 for just $130 when you input that code at checkout.

 

I was planning on going for the diehard gold 14-bs agm since it supposedly is fully compatible...ie no bending brackets, no swapping out nuts or replacing them, until I read the reviews on this battery. out of 10 reviews 9 were 1 star. pretty poor. so now im looking for an aux battery that is threaded so I can use all the original bolts, etc. I have a local autozone but if im not mistaken, theCTX14-BSFP, you have to use some nut with it and that it isn't threaded.

I read on one of these posts that the interstate battery will fit my needs.

I just want to verify the model number of that interstate battery
earlier in the thread I saw Interstate CYTX 14-BS and later on someone named bigben swapped it with an interstate battery but he didn't specify the model. does anyone know if this particular interstate battery is threaded and is a straight swap out with no mods needed?

thanks

will

 

Use the Yuasa agm from Amazon mentioned above. Perfect fit. You use the nut from the bag that comes with the battery, which perfectly fits the Mercedes screw on the wire. It's super easy and it's a great battery. I used it and would do it again, although likely won't have to bc the Yuasa is top of the line. Ytx14-bs.

 

thanks for the reply, but that's what I want to avoid. I want to use the same bolts without any mods, or replacement parts and be done with it.

 

I say this respectfully: that's just silly. It's a nut. It goes in the post. It's not a "mod". It's not a bolt or anything that requires changing anything about the MB setup. You ARE using the same bolts. There are no "replacement parts". It is JUST AS EASY. Heck, you are unhooking all sorts of stuff, pulling things out, making sure you connect things up to the correct polarity, etc. Unless you have some physical handicap that would preclude you from inserting a nut into a battery post, in which case you shouldn't be doing this in the first place, I wouldn't be concerned about this in the least.

For as long as it took you to agonize about this issue and type your question, you would be done with it.

But to each his own, I guess.

 

ok, I guess I misunderstood the way these new batteries are installed. where does this nut go? does it drop in the metal terminal housing like with the sear die hard, which makes it essentially like the fiamm bolting.

 

Exactly. The terminal post has a square hole on the side of it, and you just slide the nut in there. In my car, the leads (wires) for the battery are connected to a metal piece with a bolt (or screw) through it, and that bolt stays permanently attached to that metal piece, although it spins freely. You just put that bolt through the top of the terminal in the new battery (which terminal has a hole in it), the bolt goes through the nut, and you turn the bolt until it tightens the nut against the top of the battery terminal and forms a secure bond. It's just as easy as if the top of the battery terminal was threaded.

 

ok then, sounds good. will get it.

thanks

 

btw, how long did you charge your battery for? I just got it today, filled the acid and try to find in the directions how long I should charge it for. directions are a bit vague. I figure overnight @ 2 amps should be ok?

thanks

 

Yeah, you can do 6 amps for one hour, or 1.5 amps for 5-10 hours. Do you have a float charger (i.e. one that turns off when the battery is full?). If so, you can leave it overnight. If you don't have one that has a green light to show you when it's full, or if it doesn't turn off when it's full, I would give it no more than 5 hours at your 2 amps. Better to err on the side of not frying it.

I had a 2/6/10 amp automatic (i.e. turns off by itself) charger, and gave it an hour at the 6 amp setting.

Glad it came and you are almost in business!!

 

yes my charger does 2/6/10 also but im not sure if this charger turns off by itself...so youre right best not take a chance so ill remove it after 5 hours

thanks

 

If you want to let me know the brand and model, I can look it up for you. I have the specs on a lot of brands and models.

 

all I can find on the charger is that its a sears. I cant find a model number. the good news is that it says automatic on/off charging system right on the front. so I guess I didn't have to worry. by the way I was wrong about it doing 2/6/10 amps. it says 2/10/60 start. this charger is fairly old. maybe 10+ years old.

thanks for your help

 

Ah! That's a big one then -- and a jumpstarter, too! So 2 is what you want, because 10 would likely be too much for the little battery. For the big battery, 10 is fine. 60 is really only for jumpstarting.

 

I replaced the secondary battery, fully charged, reading 12.7 but the VisitShop light keeps coming on. Any advise?

 

I have some post that reference the fix for Battery visit workshop as replace auxillary battery. That was my solution for 2003 e320. However, it required a Star to reset the code.
Once code was reset, problem is solved.

 

its a whole lot of guessing on here but the real problem CHECK BATTERY POWER RELAY OR BATTERY CONTROL MODULE HOPE THIS HELP The technician was working on a Mercedes. A red battery symbol with the message “Visit Workshop” was displayed in the message center of the instrument cluster. The battery and the alternator have been replaced with no results.

When the technician called Identifix, I asked if testing had been performed on the Battery Control Module (BCM) with a factory-compatible scan tool, and if the front battery had been tested with an electronic battery tester. The reply: “There’s a battery under the hood? Where is it??”

Starting in model year 2003, Mercedes came out with a new E-class model with the Mercedes chassis designation 211. One of the new features of the 211 is the Dual Battery System. A main systems battery is in the trunk of the car and an auxiliary battery is located under the hood, underneath the cabin filter at the right rear corner of the engine compartment.

The Dual Battery system uses a BCM, located next to the systems battery, that is in charge of the usage and the diagnostics of the auxiliary battery. It also monitors the voltage of the systems battery along with the amount of charging system output. The BCM uses the information to perform tasks in relation to both batteries. During normal operation, the BCM will perform a battery voltage test of the auxiliary battery. Depending on this voltage, the BCM can operate what is called the auxiliary battery relay. When this relay is energized by the BCM, the auxiliary battery becomes connected to the vehicle’s main battery. This, in turn, allows the charging of the auxiliary battery until the BCM turns off the battery relay. After that, the auxiliary battery will be disconnected from the vehicle. The BCM will then monitor the battery voltage and charge rate of the systems battery.

During a low voltage condition of the systems battery, the BCM is capable of prioritizing consumer shutoff operations in stages, in order to help the systems battery regain its voltage more quickly. During “stage 1” of shutoff, a message displayed on the instrument cluster states that the system is in consumer shutoff operation, and items such as the rear window defroster and heated seats will stop functioning. If the BCM determines that this is not enough to restore correct voltage of the systems battery, the BCM will then perform “stage 2” of shutoff. At this point, the driver may notice that any components plugged into their accessory outlets will stop operating, along with reduced blower motor speed operation.

Next is the “emergency mode.” For example, if the alternator fails to operate or if the systems battery voltage becomes too low for the operation of the vehicle’s electrical system, the battery control module will not only activate “stage 2” but also activate the auxiliary battery relay to connect the auxiliary battery to the vehicle’s electrical system.

Why add all these extra functions on a car that works just fine with one battery? One of the main reasons is that the Sensotronic Brake Control (SBC) brake system on the 211 series vehicles is part electronic and part hydraulic. This brake system has no substantial connection between the brake master cylinder and the rest of the brake system. The SBC system uses an electrical pump that will pressurize the brake system for operation. If there is an electrical failure of the vehicle’s charging system or an accident which damages the systems battery or alternator, the use of an auxiliary battery is needed to help maintain proper brake operation, and bring the vehicle to a safe assisted stop.

How do you know what to look for? Testing of the Dual Battery System requires the correct tools. The BCM operates on the vehicle’s data bus giving out valuable data that can be read with your scan tool, such as alternator charging current. It also stores fault codes along with maintaining a memory of consumer shutoffs. Not only is this system used in the 211 chassis but also in the 219 chassis, also known as the CLS class. The wiring diagram on the next page shows the BCM and its components.

In this Hotline subscriber’s case, a voltage test of the auxiliary battery found it to only have a rest voltage of 10 volts. Testing it with an electronic battery tester showed it to be faulty, so the battery was replaced. After the next key cycle, there were no more warning messages in the instrument cluster.

So the next time a 211 E-class comes in the door with a red light on the instrument cluster, be sure to check the other battery under the hood.

 

But if any of the diodes is bad you most probably can detect AC current at the battery, or who says othewise?
Car was fine, had to change all freeze plugs. Inspected alternator and brushes were at the end. New ones fitted. I got the red battery light from then. Everyone insisted on the regulator. It seemed almost impossible to be the regulator, i didnt even moved it but, i fitted a new one. Still red light. Will change the belt and tensioner tomorrow, its not in good shape. Lets see how it goes.

 

There are no "magic" batteries. Mercedes does not have access to "magic" battery manufacturing nor internal production of "magic" batteries. The batteries that Mercedes sells are "common" AGM (absorbed glass mat) lead acid cells.

The batteries only differ in capacity and shape. They degrade over time and use just like the starter (Main) battery. The best batteries (as tested by Consumer Reports) are fresh ones. So the more volume that the supplier does, the better the battery the consumer will get. A Walmart fresh battery can outperform whatever a stale Mercedes battery sitting the shelf for a year can offer.

So why does Mercedes even offer a battery?

Why not simply list the common name for the battery on the case? On the battery compartment? In the service manual?

These are a philosophical questions for Mercedes.

For the W211 owner, take a look at the common;

14-BS Battery replacment (12V 14Ah Sealed) Maintenance Free Battery.

 

You absolutely want an AGM battery in there, although it will "work" with a regular battery. But given that it's right under the air filter/intake, you're better off with an AGM battery, which isn't going to vent gas.)

Best deals:

(The YUASA is probably also the hands-down best battery, but if you buy it from Amazon, make sure it's "sold by and shipped from" Amazon, not some Marketplace seller)

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...erm=14+battery (reasonable if you order online and pick up in store, taking advantage of the 25 percent off)

 

I ,tried to replace the auxiliary battery, didn't pay attention, and connect the wire wrong and made a short,

now I get the message that the aux,battery fuse or relay does not open,what could be, and where is the fuse or relay,located?
please let me know ,thank you

 

I had both my batteries replaced in my 2005 SL500 and the red battery and visit workshop error messages still appear. Anyone know how to clear?