- Mercedes-Benz E-Class: Warning Lights
Important information to help you understand your Mercedes-Benz
Red battery message ( Visit workshop)
Low Battery convenince features disabled &
ABS Malfunction &
ESP Malfunction &
the steering wheel becomes hard -
I checked the battery read 12.3 V on the instrument cluster (in the special menu where we get dyno mode)
Alternator charges as follows: (Is this normal ?)
13.4V from 0 to ~20 mph
14.2V from 20 mph onwards
Low Battery convenince features disabled &
ABS Malfunction &
ESP Malfunction &
the steering wheel becomes hard -
I checked the battery read 12.3 V on the instrument cluster (in the special menu where we get dyno mode)
Alternator charges as follows: (Is this normal ?)
13.4V from 0 to ~20 mph
14.2V from 20 mph onwards
My $$ is still on the main battery. But my wife
tells me I am wrong all the time so I might be wrong on this one.
Just measured all voltages before starting the car this morning:
- Aux Battery (with one terminal disconnected): 12.6 volts
- Main Battery (with Aux Batt terminal disconnected): 12.48 volts
Here's my concern:
Old Aux battery (Fiamm) lying in the garage also had 12.58 volts
Old Main Battery (MB) also lying in the garage also had 12.4 volts
I also noted: while unlocking the doors SBC pump clicked thrice but didn't buzz brakes lines - I remember it ALWAYS used to buzz upon unlocking ... This has been happening since brakes were bled w/o disconnecting this darn pump
I never had this problem till I bled the darn brakes without disconnecting SBC pump - heeelp guys, maybe the SBC pump is drawing excessing current ? Thats why drains the battery in stop & go traffic ??
Just measured all voltages before starting the car this morning:
- Aux Battery (with one terminal disconnected): 12.6 volts
- Main Battery (with Aux Batt terminal disconnected): 12.48 volts
Here's my concern:
Old Aux battery (Fiamm) lying in the garage also had 12.58 volts
Old Main Battery (MB) also lying in the garage also had 12.4 volts
I also noted: while unlocking the doors SBC pump clicked thrice but didn't buzz brakes lines - I remember it ALWAYS used to buzz upon unlocking ... This has been happening since brakes were bled w/o disconnecting this darn pump
I never had this problem till I bled the darn brakes without disconnecting SBC pump - heeelp guys, maybe the SBC pump is drawing excessing current ? Thats why drains the battery in stop & go traffic ??

The current leakage test done by MB showed 30 mA when cars totally shut down - they said its normal
what else could be eating up the battery ? & I know my problem starts when I sit on the brake for long & bleeding did something to either the relay or God know what..
Last edited by 007_e350; Feb 21, 2010 at 11:05 PM.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
The current leakage test done by MB showed 30 mA when cars totally shut down - they said its normal
what else could be eating up the battery ? & I know my problem starts when I sit on the brake for long & bleeding did something to either the relay or God know what..

Last edited by 007_e350; Feb 22, 2010 at 09:59 AM.
If the dealer isn't putting in the correct battery you will have this problem.
Verify the battery part number at the parts counter if necessary to confirm you have the correct battery. Others have bought new batteries that "fit" and have the same issues you have. New doesn't mean,, correct,, meet specs, or old battery never used on the shelf.
Interesting to find out my old MB battery still had 12.48 volts..
It is possible to have 14.2 volts with a diode pack bad. However if your alternator is a 90 amp and 1 diode pack is bad it will only be putting out 60 amps which means it will take longer to charge the battery. On short trips this won't be enough to keep the battery charged but on longer drives it might be able to keep up.
Also, I remember when I was putting in the driver side parking lamp (4 months ago), the housing wont go into the headlamp & I believe I turned it a little too much (maybe 3 full circles or so) ... the battery issue started after that over months ... is there a way to check any shortage in that line ?
Also, I remember when I was putting in the driver side parking lamp (4 months ago), the housing wont go into the headlamp & I believe I turned it a little too much (maybe 3 full circles or so) ... the battery issue started after that over months ... is there a way to check any shortage in that line ?
The proper way would be to use testing equipment that will actually measure and look for the 3 individual pulses from the alternator to confirm it is working. What this means is you should take it somewhere with the proper test equipment to verify the alternator. If your battery is in a low state of charge for this test it will draw high amps from the alternator and indicate low voltage. This is a precision test. If you find noone who can do this test I would recommend a good dealer. If you aren't having success with your current dealer you will have to find another.
For the light you had an issue with. I do not have enough information to answer that question without more information. However consider the light is off with the car off therefore no power. Shorts normally blow fuses or trip breakers/fuseable links. If you have none of these and the light works normally it is 'probably' not a problem.
Might consider another dealership. Remember you still have a problem you brought to MB and it hasn't been resolved. You might see your local dealer and ask for MB direct help.
Thanks
I swapped out the alternator too last night - The Red Battery/Alternator msg is gone but at night I get low voltage alongwith ESP & ABS malfunction warning... When I rev it, it goes away too ... My old battery read 12.6 in the garage tonight, so battery wasn;t the issue ?? Why is the new battery also showing low battery after a month ?
Wound up keeping power to it by running jumper cables from my girlfriend's Passat, to little 18-gauge alligator clips, and then clipping those to the lowest point I could find on the AMG's battery cables.
Worked like a charm!
I swapped out the alternator too last night - The Red Battery/Alternator msg is gone but at night I get low voltage alongwith ESP & ABS malfunction warning... When I rev it, it goes away too ... My old battery read 12.6 in the garage tonight, so battery wasn;t the issue ?? Why is the new battery also showing low battery after a month ?
Verify your aux battery voltage again engine off to make sure it is fully charged.
Last night I noticed 2 things:
1- With only park lamps on: when I increase the RPM to 3k, they're ok - but when the RPM drops from 3k to 600 I see flickering - tried this a couple of times saw it everytime...
2- With the car shutoff and even with alrm system armed, no accessory works except the command sys .... I hit seat adjusters they dont work but Radio, CD still works -- could this be a mafunction ?
Last night I noticed 2 things:
1- With only park lamps on: when I increase the RPM to 3k, they're ok - but when the RPM drops from 3k to 600 I see flickering - tried this a couple of times saw it everytime...
2- With the car shutoff and even with alrm system armed, no accessory works except the command sys .... I hit seat adjusters they dont work but Radio, CD still works -- could this be a mafunction ?





