ifrichard

Hi UsedMB,

I have read and reread that thread. Yet, I still do not know which radiator I have. It looks like some photos may even be mislabeled. Does STAR TekInfo have the answer?

Thanks, Richard

UsedMB

Hi,

I thought the pictures were pretty obvious which radiator we have. The first two pictures were the Behr radiator (good radiator). I circled the plastic bumps on the radiator that were used for the wavy crimp. The third picture was the 2004 radiator with the similar plastic bumps that I also circled in red. The fourth picture was the Valeo radiator (bad radiator) with straight plastic ledge for their version of the crimps.

To me it was obvious that the plastics of the 2004 radiator was originally designed with the wavy plastic bumps that was designed for the notched wavy crimp. Along the way, a manufacture engineer redesigned the crimp for cost saving by eliminating the notches. In the engineering point of view, the new wavy crimp also seem to be stronger than the old notched version.

Luckily, the crimps were not the cause of the failures. Failures were internal leaks ... so the 2004 radiators are fine.









UseMB

pelletman

The problem I had was the torque converter, all the 722.6 converters are a problem, google 722.6 shudder and read the two articles by Ed Lee of Sonnax. This is your problem. I guess it could be caused by coolant, our 9/2003 build date had the newer radiator, and blackstone didn't find coolant in the fluid. This transmission is in all those Sprinter vans and they are all having problems too. About $300 plus some misc parts to fix problem myself.

UsedMB

Hi Pelletman,

Since I don't have the know how to do it myself, where can I get this modification? Can I buy an exchange converter and return the core later after a swap?

I remembered once making a left turn into a freeway ramp and needed to accelerate to freeway speed. The car just went wild with downshift, wicked forward surge, and upshift. At the time, I said to myself: "This car is obsolutely unruly". I didn't ever get that from all the cars that I ever owned in the past. After reading a lot on this forum, I learned to set the car to "comfort" setting to minimize this problem. There's still a little bit of jerkiness, but it is much more managable.

Thanks!

UsedMB

pelletman

Deltrans in Newark DE. www.deltransinc.com I'm not sure you have the same problem I was having though. If I were close enough I would have had them do the whole thing. It will be around $300 for you to have your converter rebuilt, you have to send them yours they don't have rebuilts on the shelf.

UsedMB

I just re-read the two technical articles. It sounds like this modification is only for some aftermarket performance shops. Original manufacturer is certainly not endorsing this modification with the notched clutch plate and 10 added springs to push the piston back into the cylinder when torque is not engaged! I wonder if this modification will catch-on so that it will be available for the general public before my torque converter finally needs replacing due to un-drivability of the car.

UsedMB

UsedMB

Thanks! I live in California. I guess I can send them my converter via UPS. We'll see ... I will break-down and do it when it gets worse. Right now, with the ride control at "comfort", the car is still managable!

UsedMB

pelletman

We had it go bad pretty fast, started to shudder, got worse and not really drivable, always slipping...

ifrichard

Hi UsedMB,

Sorry for the slow reply. I have been away on business and then the car went away. Mine is the third picture with the cut wavy crimps.

I will sleep much better now. Thanks.

Regards, Richard

SoCalCLK

Running strong 1.5 years after the new radiator has been in. Torque convertor going strong as well. No leaks, no shaky tranny.

SterlingG

I bought my 2003 e500 back on october 30th and then on nov 4th trans goes out completely. I had an MPP service contract and they picked up the bill on 2 stipulations, one that the trans got shipped to a place in atlanta, and 2 that the dealer that sold me the car covered the labor.

I've been in a rental for over a month and get to pick it up tomorrow. They also replaced the front lower control arms as well as a weeping rear main seal.

klpete

My 2004 E320 had the same problem at about 115,000 miles. Took it to MB of Escondido. They said it needed a new Air Mass Sensor. Didn't solve it. Back again. Trans ECU. Didn't solve it. Third trip they kept it for a longer test drive and decided to flush the trans fluid. That did the trick. After a couple of emails to my SA, Larry Hastings, and a phone call to the SM, they refunded me for the two failed repairs minus the cost of the flush. I'm happy with the compromise.

Only problem is that they never mentioned and I never thought to ask why they had to flush the fluid and if they did a glycol test. Now I'm concerned about whether the reason for the contamination was addressed.

Good luck on yours.

SoCalCLK

Hopefully your car did not have glycol leaking into the transmission, which it does not sound like it did, since the car is operating fine after the transmission flush.

They did the same steps with mine, however the car was still rattling. They then determined not only did they have to replace the leaking radiator, but also the torque convertor, which was ruined as a result of the glycol.