I've read a few DIY posts for oil change, but have a few questions.

1- I figured the best oil to go with is Mobil 1 0w-40w, pls advise if there's anything better

2- I'll be pumping the oil out via the suction method. Pls let me know if the other one's better with any major advantage over this one.

3- Is the oil filter in the front ? What type should I use (DIY post was from an E320 so I'm not sure if E350 will be the same).

4- People mentioned on posts that they checked oil level through the instrument cluster as well. I haven't anything like that in my cluster unless there's any hidden menu

Thank you

 

1. I use German Castrol 0w-30, but Mobil 1 is fine.
2. I prefer to drain so I can check out the underside of the car for leaks/damage at the same time, but suction works well and is less of a hassle/mess.
3. Oil filter is up front and on top. It looks like a black cap with about 18 corners on it. Use a fleece filter (available online or at the dealer for about $15). You will need a oil filter tool to remove the filter cap, which can be purchased at any parts store for about $3. Also, make sure to replace all the o-rings while changing the filter. The filter comes with the o-rings.

4. When at the mileage screen, if you hit the up button a few times, you should see oil level. Must be done with the engine off, and about 5 minutes after running.

 

You will also need to reset the FSS after service. Check your owners manual.

 

If this is your first time, pay attention to the graphic that comes in the fleece filter box (MANN). The LARGE O ring fits in a groove slightly below the last thread on the filter stalk. I ignored this and decided that it would seat at the top anyway. That was a messy mistake that resulted in 2 quarts of expensive oil blown all over the engine bay. Even worse, I had done this correctly three times before without incident. I chalked it up to a senior moment but I assure you I won't make that mistake again.

 

why may I ask would you want to change your own oil on this car? What about the filter?

Steve

 

I change my own because I have to drive 200 miles for dealer service and it takes 2 days to have it done. At home I can do it in under 1 hr and not have to put 200 miles on the car nor spend 2 days on the road. I also do all the maint in the FSS when required. I now have service D in 400 miles and the brakes, cabin a/c, flex plate, brake fluid flush were all completed at home on my time schedule. Now all that remains is engine oil and filter. I can do that in my shop at night and not have to make the drive.

So there are real reasons why someone would like to do their own service. If my dealer was in the same town I might let them do it as my service advisor does a great job and he knows I do some of my own maint. I have actually helped him on his truck with tech issues. So if you want to do your own maint feel free to do so but keep the proof of service. I buy only MB parts and stock up at the dealer for filters, etc so they still sell me the parts.

 

Why not?

 

i just did a oil chang today on my e500 and i used the german castrol 0-30.
i also use that oil in my ls1 camaro.
my buddys on ls1tech did oil test on most of the synthetics and the castrol proved much better than the mobil1.

 

german castrol 0-30 Didn't know it was available in US? Is it synthetic and on the MB 229.51 list?

 

I also plan to start changing my oil/filter instead of the dealer doing it. A year ago I also bought an oil dip stick from AST tools company to check my oil: Cost $60 Part #M0721 applicable for newer Mercedes models with engines 112, 113, 137 and 271. However, I've never been able to get it to go down all the way to measure the oil......it hangs up about 2/3rds down the dip stick tube and I don't want to push hard on it. The dip stick tube is the taller one closest to the left passenger side of the car, right? The lower one on the right of it under the air filter housing is the tranmission one. Wonder why I can't get this thing to work.......maybe it's the little plastic nodes along the stem in several places that are causing the friction?

 

You are correct on the oil dipstick tube. It will go to the bottom. I think there is a 90 degree turn just before it enters into the pan. But you are right it is hard to make the last turn.

 

Well, I removed the plastic tabs on the dip stick, including the bottom one. But then I had to cut and file down the tip to give it a round edge........the sharpe corners were hanging it up. So, finally, with the right pressure and angle, I got it to go all the way down and measure the oil. I think I need to put a slight bend in the stick closer to the tip to get it past that 90 degree turn more easily. I wonder what type of stick the dealers use.......I asked my Dealer Parts Dept one time if they sold the dip sticks for my vehicle and said no.