rieger

Rostov I think I had a similiar noise and they changed all the tie-rods, links bushings etc. they finally changed the control arm and that fixed the noise. It was a very small noise at very low speeds and was very hard to hear but it will eventually get louder but if you are under warranty then get them to change it out now because it takes a fairly long time to get it to be very loud.

lei

Rieger. was it lower control arm or upper control arm ?

Rostov, I will check the top mount as suggested.

rostov

I had control arms and bushings replaced already. But that noise I know, also it comes with vibration..., and this is something else. But thanks anyway!

rostov

But you have airmatics, right?

rieger

Not sure of lower or upper but I know the control arms was replaced last after they replaced everything else.
Correct I have airmatics but if the noise is very little then you may also have a leak on the airmatics but if the shock is gone then it is a very loud thud or your car will just sit on the ground.

lei

It seems that the airmatics is only for the rear. The front looks like normal strut. There is a height sensor on the front right, but don't see any air tubes to the shock.

rieger

Airmatics should be on all 4. They changed 3 of 4 of my airmatic shocks so that would indicate all 4 are airmatic. I am talking about the 500 not sure on the 350 or 300 though.

jdora

I have a noise from the front - sounds like a thump on every revolution of the wheel - it started last summer as a tick-tick-tick noise and now is thump-thump-thump and you can feel it as well from the steering wheel. Local dealer looked at it and found broken rear spring and sticky front break. Big bill for repair but noise is still there!

The noise is only discernable on a) smooth roads (like car parks) and b) between 15 and 20mph!

Any faster then road noise could mask it I think. Any roughness on the road an road noise masks it.

Any clues chaps?

vettdvr

This sounds like a wheel bearing to me. Given it matches wheel rotation. Higher speeds increase the frequency above the human hearing range and you can't hear it, but that doesn't mean it isn't there.

A bad wheel bearing can damage the spindle assembly and possibly leave the vehicle. You might want to look closely at this one.

rostov

Since you can feel it in steering wheel - while care stands still, move the steering wheel right-left rapidly, 10-20 degrees max and see if you get the same noise and play. Could me tir rod.

MercFiveHundred

I have the same rattle noise from my front too. To me it sounds like the air shock, but i had the right side already replaced. The front ball joints were replaced at 80k (now im at 120k). My only other thing i can think of is the inner tie rods? How can those be checked? I have no play on either side of the wheels.

rostov

If someone told me something like this, I would not believe it, but… I just had all 4 tires replaced, balanced, and aligned – the noise is gone!

MercFiveHundred

I would. I'll swap out the tires with a set of 19's this weekend to see what happens.

Believe this: I heard that a faulty instrument cluster did not allow the horn to work.

vettdvr

What brand of tire were you using?

rostov

The tires that I put on 1.5 years ago were Falken All season – pretty ****ty tires, but I decided to give it a try based on recommendation of the guy that claimed to be a “racer”. But I just had another chance to make sure that there is no free lunch! I got ~20K miles out of it. Those could probably go for another 5, but on one of them (RR) the metal court came out. ))
But I don’t think those were the reason for that noise.
There is only one thing could think of - I probably tolled you this sad story before, but… I took this car to the MB dealer for the alignment right after I had those tires replaced. The first time they were not able to make the steering wheel straight and car was pulling to the right, so I brought it back. Another guy performed the alignment for the second time, but told me that the car pulls a side because of the tires that grubbing the roat to much (or some BS like this, idiot)… to make long story short, I took my car to my friend’s garage, he has a lift, and right away figured out that front wheel bearings had too much play. I adjusted it and the pull has gone, the car became perfectly normal.
I think maybe they had something not tighten up enough when did the alignment, so it become even more loose and that noise came up? I am not sure what are the alignment point’s there, but I don’t have another theory at this time.

djjoonie

I have 04 E500 4matic and had the same problem for a while, so I did the followings and the noise is completely gone ...

Day 1- Replaced lower ball joints- speed bump squeaking and farting is gone, but still have the rattle.

Day 2- Replaced stabilizer bar with the bracket (Came together) and the links. - Same noise.

Day 3- Replaced lower control arm- same noise

Day 4- Replaced shock with upper control arm with attached ball joints....- Same noise $W$T$F$

........

So I changed both tie rods and did an alignment today. -- All noise gone...i probably didnt even have to change the tie rods..

I dont know if i have to be happy or angry...


Now parts for sale: perfectly fine driver side used air shock, used upper control arm.

MercFiveHundred

I PM'ed rostov to see if his sound returned. It did.

DJ, Please update us after about 1000 miles or less to see if the sound returns.

After you changed all of that, my guess is that it would have to be something with the steering rack (inner tie rods?). I'm no mechanic but i tried to carefully listen to the exact location and i cant really define where but thats my best guess. I'll carefully remove the boot this weekend to inspect.

djjoonie

It sucks to hear that Rostov got the sound back…
I will definitely let you all know how long mine lasts.
I think it was 95% the tie rod since the ball joint that was attached to it was very loose compare to the new ones. I’m not sure if it’s inner or outer, but it’s the one that looks like "C" and it attaches to the knuckle by ball joint.
I just hope mine lasts more than 1000miles!!!

djjoonie

UPDATE: NO MORE RATTLE, NOISE, THump, Dump ETC after 1200 miles city driving. so far so good.

change your tie rod and do an alignment.

iblaho

This thread ended with getting new tires. Whew.

What are some solid indications of worn bushing? Sound when breaking and turning, a feeling in the steering wheel or floor? etc...

MercFiveHundred

Thanks for the update DJ! Can i ask where you got the alignment done? Dealership? how about you, Rostov?

Iblaho,
A bad bushing might leak fluid so it can make it easier to see exactly which one is bad. Otherwise you can try to move it around to duplicate the noise. Usually a bad bushing would be heard as a thump on a change of acceleration/braking/going over a decent bump. Most common to fail is the thrust arm bushing. Our problem was noticeable on small bumps and all of our bushings were good. The sound also was more of a rattle.

iblaho

Thanks. I've experienced that on other cars. It's my first MB and I act like it came from Mars. I think I'll get a manual on DVD or similar.

bigsmile1130

clicking , rattling noise when taking off slowly from dead stop. Replaced ball joints didnot fix problem.Took car to dealer they informed me that I needed to replace 2 motor mounts and rear transmission mount.They quoted a ridicilous price of over $2200. I checked into labour times on Mitchell its approx 3-4 hour job.They said that it was 13- 14 hours. The mounts are only $325. Has anyone ever had this job done? Please report. Thanks Mike

rostov

Ok, guys, of cause it was not a tire problem. The noise came back after a month and ~1000K. And actually it became much worth. (I told you, the good noise always come out!
Yesterday I checked it again, just off ramps, and found the following:
1. The “link’s ball joint on the leftt hand side is pretty much gone – that would kind of id explain the noise that I am getting since the link is connected to the sway bar. I could not see it when the car was hanged on the lift, but it is discoverable when landed on wheels and by now it is in much worth shape.
2. On the right side, the link ball joint seems to be ok, but there is a play – I did not have anybody to help me shaking the wheel (at this time I had the car on the jack), but I have a feeling I will have to replace # 13 (big one) bushings on both sides.

Basically, the next step is to replace # 12 with all the “robbers” in it.
I will keep you posted!

rostov

That is one of not too many things that I do at the dealers.