No fluid in mounts as far as I can tell

 

The work order on my car stated, Found engine mounts leaking replaced.

So I would assume there is a fluid in them.

 

Guys,

I just changed the engine mounts - same noise. So its NOT the engine mounts. I changed the tranny mount about 2 weeks ago too.

Has anyone that had the nosie go away had it return? Bigsmile?

If anyone needs motor mounts let me know - these are my old ones that seem to be ok. PM for price.

 

I replaced my motor mounts and transmission mount about 2 months ago so far so good no noise has returned

 

Could you describe the noise please

 

I got rid of that noise - a month ago I traded my Mercedes for BMW 550i.
Got to tell you – I miss that “noise” already!

Anyhow, good luck to all of you guys fixing this issue. And hope you won’t have to fix your Es too often – I still believe these are the most beautiful cars out of whole Mercedes lines.

Will see you in ML section (hopefully for off topic chat only).

 

If your 550 reliability is better you will have made a smart choice. Keep us informed on reliability. Hope you don't miss the noise. The one thing I want to miss is the MTBF every 8,000 miles.

 

Like a big stone rattling in a plastic milk carton.

You said you changed the lower ball joint too, right? Did you get alignment afterward?

BTW - if anyone does the engine mounts, they are tough to get out.
1. Open hood, remove air inlet housing and use a 16mm short socket to remove the top bolt of the mount from under the exhaust manifold. (both sides) This is the hardest part.
2. Remove ALL underbody covers.
3. Jack car up by front cross member jacking point.
4. Put 2 ton jack stands under the two front jack points.
5. Remove 4 bolts from the power steering rack 18mm. These are two sided meaning there is a 18mm nut on the other side of the bolt. you need a wrench to hold the nut in place and use the socket underneath. These are on tight and you may need to use an extension pipe to start it.
6. Drop the power steering rack and let it hang.
7. Remove the lower engine mount bolt 13mm (i think that was it). I was missing this bolt on the passenger side and the driver side was rusted out. So i replaced them with new bolts.
8. Jack the engine up on the oil pan spot slowly. Make sure you don't go too high. U just need to slide it out but a little more height is better to have.
9. Slide out both mounts through the passenger side space made by dropping the steering rack. The passenger side should come out no problem, but the drive side will need some wiggling but should come out with out too much effort.
10. Slide the new mounts in. Be sure to align the metal stub on the top of the mount between the spot on the mount arm. Bolt the top bolts to the mount first. You may need a friend to confirm the metal stub is align properly. This will ensure the positioning of the mount.
11. Drop the engine slowly but not all the way down. Insert the bottom bolts as you may need to move the mount slightly (this is the reason not to drop the engine all the way down).
12. Drop the engine all the way down. Re-tighten all the bolts on the mounts - bottom and top - again to ensure it's tight.
13. Put back the power steering rack. Do not tighten one bolt at a time. Instead, just try to get the holding plate aligned and put all the bolts and nuts on w/o tightening. Then tightenen one by one - crossing over to the other corner (like tightening wheel lugs).
14. Lift car on cross member, remove jack stands on the side, drop car, and install the air housing.

To me, this is a 8 out of 10, 10 being the hardest. I did this with my brother so it wasn't that bad. My arms are all scratched up because of trying to get to the top bolts on the mounts.

 

hi bigsmile

is #1 what you are talking about, i have the same care you have, and on idle the engine is shaking someone told me that the engine mount need to be looked at. or can you provid the parts number and where you got it.

 

Yes, #1 looks like the engine mounnt. It is covered by a plastic/rubber shield when you look at it. #4 is the upper arm the mount that it's bolted to. I have 2 mounts that were good, but are used. If you want them let me know. They are about $200 each from the dealer, less than $100 each if you search online.

I went to another dealership yesterday, and i was told that the torque arm joint (the arm that goes from the knuckle to the front of the car) is bad and that is causing the noise. The mechanic was pretty sure it was it. Just another thing for any of you's to check. I cant check it till may in a feww weeks. Let me know if anyone can confirm this.

 

Have similar sounds from my front right (RHD). Its actually a loud clunking when I start turning the wheel quickly..as in parking in a tight space.
Its now started from the left side as well.
The shop opened the suspension up and said all was well. Changed the upper/lower ball joints, a few bushings, but the noise is now back after 2 days. Its driving me crazy.
I am also getting the light rattling front sound over rough/uneven roads..

 

Changed thrust arm and lower ball joint and it didn't fix anything.

Anyone found anything since then? LOL This is driving me nuts. No one can figure this thing out!

I'll try one time at another place...

 

i hit a huge pothole and the sound returned, i got another alignment and the sound is gone again. the sound was the tie rod when hitting the bump.

 

You got the alignment done at an MB dealer? Thanks!

 

I know this is the W211 thread, but I have a front rumbling/knocking noise noticeable when driving slowly over a bump, it does sound similar to a piece of wood in a milk carton. I changed both upper and lower control arms (bushings & ball joints), and tie rods. Perhaps it could be engine mounts?

 

I purchased the motor mounts on line from Bimmer parts. Check your sway bar links they can make noise going over bumps

 

Fixed the noise - FINALLY. It was the sway bar/mid ball joints in the center of the control arm. I changed both sides. Job took like 2 hours. SORRY, no pics, but i'll try to be detailed.

Parts:
MB P/N# 211-323-0068 about $65 each but you find much cheaper online or

NAPA parts special order http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50044+2044121. Not sure what the quality is but i went with MB parts.

Tools:
1/2" and 3/8" drive socket wrench.
E-18 socket
8mm male Hex socket
21mm socket
21mm wrench
FREE Rental Ball Joint press: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...Press/_/N-264q.
Ball joint separator:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...#ht_3202wt_958.
2nd car jack
short/stubby and medium size flat screw drivers
hammer
helper or friend
7/8" wrench or socket for the press
PB Blaster spray

Procedure
1. Remove battery cable from trunk - so the air suspension doesn't come on. Not needed for non-airmatic E320's.
2. Loosen lugs, jack up the car, remove tire.
3. using the 8mm hex socket, remove the BAS sensor bracket bolt above the lower ball joint.
4. remove the lower ball joint nut using the 22mm wrench.
5. remove the sway bar/mid ball joint nut, 22mm socket.
6. Remove the shock nut and bolt using 22mm socket and wrench. Don't take the bolt out yet.
7. Using the E-18 socket and 22mm wrench, remove the lower control arm nut and bolt toward the end. Use the hammer to poke out the bolt. Shimmy the lower control arm down and up while tugging on the bolt to remove it.
8. Use the separator to press the lower ball joint from the arm. Might have to wiggle the separator around to reach it.
9. Now remove the shock bolt from #6 with a hammer and short screw driver and then medium size screw driver.
10. You should be able to remove the sway bar link from the joint, but you can use the tire iron or a large screw drive to pry it out. BECAREFUL of the shock and brake lines.
11. You should be able to wiggle out the lower control arm now.

12. Spray PB Blaster on the joint and let sit for 5-10mins.Using the largest ring in the ball joint press and the two plates, place the press as follows:
open end of press
large opening plate
largest ring
control arm
small opening plate
bolt part of press

Lay it on the floor and begin to press the joint out of the arm with the 7/8" wrench/socket. Dont worry about the threads on the old joint being messed up since you'll be replacing it anyways. Keep pressing even though the joint may be slanted. You should hear a pop when it begins to get out of the joint. This is where a friend would be very helpful to stand on it to keep it on the floor. Remember the direction of which way the ball joint was facing so that you can install the new one in the same direction.

*One of the joints (i think the actual bad one), i pressed the joint right through the bottom and the only shell of the joint remained. No worries, use a 1 1/8" short socket to go over the shell. Use the press again and it should come out.

13. Installation of the mid ball joint into the arm is the reverse of removal - including flipping the control arm position in the press and keeping the components of the press the same. Make sure you press it in all the way.

14. With your thumbs, move the new joint facing up so that you can install into the sway bar link easier. This may be tough to do but necessary.
15. Position the control arm to fit into the lower ball joint, shock, sway bar link, and frame. Once you get the sway bar link partially in, use the nut to hold into place, but don't tighten yet. Put the nut on the lower ball joint too, but don't tighten.
16. Slide the bolt through the rear bushing where it goes into the frame. You may need to wiggle, but it should go in and put the washer and nut on. Don't tighten.
17. Slide the shock bolt through. You may need a friend to push the hub up and down till you fit the bolt through.
18. Tighten the shock bolt/nut, rear frame nut/bolt, and sway bar/mid joint nut (#13).
19. Using the second jack (or the factory jack), place the jack underneath the lower ball joint and expand. This will push the lower ball joint into the tapered hole of the lower control arm to keep it from spinning. Tighten the nut with the 22mm wrench. I found using the 22mm socket will make it spin because of the increase power. Depress and remove the jack.
20. Don't forget to install the 8mm hex bolt for the BAS sensor bracket.
21. Double check you tightened everything.
22. Install wheel and lugs, depress jack, and tighten lugs securely.
23. Get an alignment...

Before i replaced these joints, i replaced
1. Both lower ball joints
2. Engine mounts
3. Strut/front control arm
4. Inner and outer tie rods
5. Upper ball joints

The Lower and upper ball joints were worn. Engine mounts, front control arm, and tie rods were all fine. The sway bar joint were the culprits.

On another note, dont listen to the dealer when they say you cant press the joint out and that you need to buy a new lower control arm with the joint already pressed in. That's over $300 each. So i kinda saved $500 not listening to thier BS.

So relieved!!! That noise was sooo annoying.

 

THANKS!!!

 

I've noticed that when I drive my '08 E350 Sport over the neighborhood's speed humps (about 4-5" high and 12" deep/across), the front end feels like it bottoms out after crossing the speed bump; speed is maybe 15mph. Does this sound normal to you?

 

No doesn't sound normal.
Maybe your struts are bad?
What's the mileage ?

 

Sounds like a Shock going bad

 

Mileage is 14,500.

 

I got a weird noise coming from the front of my 04 w211 AMG 26k miles. I almost want to say its the compressor vibrating when pumping air into the suspension. Could the bushings from the compressor pump bracket be worn outt? Leak in the suspension somehwere causing the pump to consistently pump? Not sure on what I should do first to figure it out. Does anyone know if MB still do inspections in addition to any of their service?

 

Hi --I feel I have the same issue. Did you resolve yours?

 

Regardless of the issue, just to be clear (forgive my ignorance), all W211s have hydro-elastic or hydrostatic motor mounts correct? Is this in V6 versions or V8 versions as well, as I would think they might not be necessary in the latter due to the better engine stroke balance of a V8...