Just got finished installing slotted/drilled front/rear rotors and ceramic pads onmy 2004 e500. I bleed rear brakes, no problem. Front right brakes bled without problems. The front left-I get no fluid to caliper. Tried several times (over 6) to pump brakes and crack blleder screw-no fluid. Anyone out there have any idea what maybe causing this? The error messages on dash regarding excessive stopping distance,etc. I'm sure are related to this situation. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

Did you disconnect the sbc plug before starting the bleeding process?

 

No I did not disconnect SBC plug. I didn't disconnect when I changed brake pads/rotor either. Turned car off, waited 30 minutes, changed out pads rotors no problem. I had wife pump brakes, hold pedal, I cracked bleeder screw. Worked on right side. Left side-no fluid at caliper???

 

Sounds like the bleeder might be plugged.

 

bleeder was fine-bought a hand vacuum pump from local auto parts store($40) and sucked brake fluid from reservoir to calipers-refilled brake fluid-started car-no error messages-everything is fine-I will keep board posted on my slotted/drilled rotors from irotors. Previous post stated their stuff was junk-I'll let you know how I fare. Thanks to everyone on this website for giving me the confidence to change my own brakes-saved over $250.00 by doing it myself.

 

How do you like the ceramic pads? I will be replacing my OEM pads soon and would like to use ceramics instead, as It's my understanding that the wheels will look cleaner longer. What brand did you use, where did you get them, and what was their price?

Thanks!

 

I bought slotted/drilled front and rear rotors and ceramic pads for all four wheels for $445.00 from irotors(ebay) I haven't had them on very long-just a couple of days but I have noticed that they don't stop as good as the factory setup-I am taking it easy on them until I get some more miles on them. I will keep the website posted on their performance-I have heard the same thing regarding brake dust-should be quite a bit cleaner than the factory units.

 

Brake bleeding with SBC is a dealer only process.

 

Well, I guess that's another procedure the dealer won't be getting my money on. Brakes work fine, no problems. No error messages, nothing. I saw another post with the correct MB service manual procedure-says must have between 1-2 bar pressure on system to bleed. My little hand vacuum did that-dealer servicing is overated-kind of like the $230.00 oil changes here-what a bunch of bs-you can by a filter at Walmart for 12.00 with the orings and everything-8 quarts of mobil one at 3.00-by my math thy are seriously raping people and not even offering vaseline.

 

is there a DIY article on bleeding brakes? What tool and tool size is needed to let fluid out on caliper? Thanks.

 

Not completely true. It is entirely possible to do a satisfactory brake bleed at home; I know, I did it when I installed my Brembo GT BBK kits. First step is to deactivate the SBC - most do this by simply unplugging the SBC control unit from the wiring harness. There are also some fairly inexpensive tools available that will deactivate the SBC via the OBDII connection port under the dash. Once the SBC is deactivated, you can do a really nice one person bleed (read: no need to pump the pedal) using a Motive pressure bleeder. Get the right pressure cap, fill it with SBC spec brake fluid (DOT4+), pump the system up to 2 bar, and bleed the calipers in the following order RR, LR, LF, RF.

But if you want to a complete bleed, including the the the SBC control unit, then you need a Star Diagnostic computer to activate the various valves in the SBC unit to purge them (as well as a good commericial grade electric pressure bleeding machine.

 

Thanks for the clear explanation and gorgeous car dude!