- Mercedes-Benz E-Class: How to Repair Power to the Trunk
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
No power to trunk, 3rd brake light, or license plate lamps
If your vehicle has lost power to the trunk unit, and lights, there is a very simple fix. This is fairly common problem on W211 models. The wires get caught it trunk hardware and get severed. The dealer wanted to charge me $250 for something that took me 20 minutes and less that $10 to complete. Here's what I did.
1. Use the key to manually open the trunk.
2. Remove two plastic pins holding carpet/panel on the driver side of trunk. Pull carpet/panel away carefully.
3. Remove plastic cover on left trunk hinge by unfastening pin at top of cover.
4. Follow the wires until you find where they are severed.
5. Strip wires slightly.
6. Put a piece of shrink tubing over one side of the wires.
7. twist severed wires back together where you stripped and exposed the copper.
8. Solder the wires.
9. Pull the shrink tubing down over the exposed copper.
10. Heat the tubing so that it shrinks around the exposed wire.
11. rewrap wire so that it follows the left hinge in a manner that is will not get cut again. (I wrapped the at risk area in duct tape, not pretty, but it was effective).
12. Reinstall Panels.
Sorry for the lack of pictures, but this is a real easy fix. I hope this procedure saves some $$$ for someone.
One small piece of advice for others in the same boat - to remove the plastic pins that hold the carpet in place, pull out the center portion first. It will remove easily, and then the outer plastic circle will come out easily as well.
Thanks again.
Questions:
Do I need any auto-specific tools to do the operation or a better arsenal of household tools, including electrical, would do it?
Any warning how I can make things worse or screw up the car accidentaly?
Do warranties cover this issue (not factory warranty)?
Thanks.
Yes, many aftermarket warranties will cover the repair. Read your contract for coverage. Most warranties written as "ALL factory installed parts EXCEPT for listed exclusions..." should cover wiring replacement/repair.
Not a very good way to route those wires... Not sure what the MB engineers were thinking when they routed the wiring the way they did!
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If your vehicle has lost power to the trunk unit, and lights, there is a very simple fix. This is fairly common problem on W211 models. The wires get caught it trunk hardware and get severed. The dealer wanted to charge me $250 for something that took me 20 minutes and less that $10 to complete. Here's what I did.
1. Use the key to manually open the trunk.
2. Remove two plastic pins holding carpet/panel on the driver side of trunk. Pull carpet/panel away carefully.
3. Remove plastic cover on left trunk hinge by unfastening pin at top of cover.
4. Follow the wires until you find where they are severed.
5. Strip wires slightly.
6. Put a piece of shrink tubing over one side of the wires.
7. twist severed wires back together where you stripped and exposed the copper.
8. Solder the wires.
9. Pull the shrink tubing down over the exposed copper.
10. Heat the tubing so that it shrinks around the exposed wire.
11. rewrap wire so that it follows the left hinge in a manner that is will not get cut again. (I wrapped the at risk area in duct tape, not pretty, but it was effective).
12. Reinstall Panels.
Sorry for the lack of pictures, but this is a real easy fix. I hope this procedure saves some $$$ for someone.
I also post a video on Youtube when I follow through the wiring: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0JSfCliJA0o
Hope this helps.
The trunk release won't work this morning and then the messages about the license plate and brake lights. I was convinced that it was another 250 dollar hit.
I followed the instructions and it was exactly like it was called out here - including the brown wire!
Thanks a bunch.
Ska

Thanks again!!!
I found several wires in the trunk area that prevented my right side tag light to work, my third brake like and the trunk to close.
Thanks to all.
BTW, I have the motorized trunk closer if that makes any difference.EDIT: Fixed, took me a while to find the broke wire. But at the end, it's really not that much different than what the OP stated. The broken wire was actually located inside the very top of the tubing. I can't believe the wire will still break inside the cloth tape and tubing.
Once again Thanks go out to the OP and all other people who chimed in with photos. You have saved many people's $250 from the dealers.
Happy Holidays!
Last edited by Pekkle; Dec 18, 2011 at 02:31 PM.
This post was a huge help! The brown (ground) wire attached to the drivers side trunk hinge was frayed and almost broken. Wiggled the brown wire and the car alarm went off. BINGO! used these instructions and fixed the frayed wire and the lid closer now works!
BTW, my fuse box has no reference to which fuse does what..? Is there a legend supposed to be attached somewhere in the box?
Thanks Again,
My fix.... I went to home depot and picked up some splices, electrical tape, and small spool of 14 guage electical wire (black). They actual have a crimping tool with some splices for about $5. Nice deal. I spliced in about 10 inches of the new electrical wire. Wrapped up the spliced areas with electrical tape. I hope this will hold for at least 2 years.
I hope to upgrade to the 2014 S class.









