E-Class (W211) 2003-2009

DIY: Replacing front subframe Question

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Old Nov 23, 2009 | 10:43 PM
  #26  
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This is a great thread. I've done some work on my cars including dropping transmissions, valve jobs and timing belt replacements. But since my car is still under warranty I've been a little intimidated to mess with it. It going to need brakes. I'm gong to have to make a decision whether to step up to the plate and do in myself or let the dealer. The want $150 for labor on the front pads so it's not that bad but if I don't do it myself I'm afraid that I will be turning into a girlyman W211 owner. I appreciate the clear reminder that it's just a car.
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 08:25 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by MBNUT1
This is a great thread. I've done some work on my cars including dropping transmissions, valve jobs and timing belt replacements. But since my car is still under warranty I've been a little intimidated to mess with it. It going to need brakes. I'm gong to have to make a decision whether to step up to the plate and do in myself or let the dealer. The want $150 for labor on the front pads so it's not that bad but if I don't do it myself I'm afraid that I will be turning into a girlyman W211 owner. I appreciate the clear reminder that it's just a car.
Do it yourself. My front brake job at the dealer cost $550 the first time. I did the job the second time for $85.00. This is an easy job. I also found the calipers to be excellent quality and only 35% worn at 65,000 when I replaced the pads. I now have 91,000 miles on the origional rotors. The sensors the dealer does the fru fru about cost about $4.00 each and are plastic and just plug into the pad. easy job. DIY
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 11:05 AM
  #28  
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It is the easiest brake job I have ever seen. It took me longer to jack the car and take off the tires than to change the brakes, I'm not kidding...
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 12:38 PM
  #29  
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With the exception of the negative post, this is a good thread - pics. would be awesome!

You have my and many other DIY'ers here (and on the AMG forum I'm sure) support. Keep up the good work, and take pics!

+1
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Old Nov 24, 2009 | 01:29 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by emilner
It is the easiest brake job I have ever seen. It took me longer to jack the car and take off the tires than to change the brakes, I'm not kidding...
You are correct. Jacking and pulling the tires is the most time consuming part. I really hate doing that part.
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Old Nov 26, 2009 | 05:06 AM
  #31  
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Heres a PDF that explains how to bleed the power steering system on the W211 and several other models. You're going to have to do this after replacing the subframe. Thought it may help someone.

Also attached is a picture from this thread here of a W210 engine mount replacement. Look how he completely distorted the engine pan.. I bet that cars a total write-off.
Attached Thumbnails DIY: Replacing front subframe Question-9e.jpg  
Attached Files
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 10:54 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by W Cole
Heres a PDF that explains how to bleed the power steering system on the W211 and several other models. You're going to have to do this after replacing the subframe. Thought it may help someone.

Also attached is a picture from this thread here of a W210 engine mount replacement. Look how he completely distorted the engine pan.. I bet that cars a total write-off.
Tks!

Can we sticky this procedure?
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 02:18 PM
  #33  
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2004 E320 4matic Wagon - 55k miles
Steering knuckle and drive shaft

Took my 04' E320 4Matic wagon in for a 4 wheel alignment. MB dealer found two campaigns (wheel well and front axle bolts). This was done. The problem was that they could not align my car indicating bent KNUCKLE and DRIVE SHAFT (driver side, front). The wheel is 1/2" from knuckle, while on the other side it is 1"+. It is assumed I hit something. No other damage, either to rims, tires or anything. $3,300 estimate ($2100 parts).
Where can I find pictures of actual parts so I know exactly what this is? Also, they see that the knuckle is bent, why is the shaft also being replaced? Without a 100% explanation, they said they are replaced together?
Any help would be appreciated. How much work is invloved to get this done? Any pictures out there? Car has only 45k miles.
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Old Aug 31, 2019 | 12:46 AM
  #34  
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Excellent thread

Originally Posted by gnma
With the exception of the negative post, this is a good thread - pics. would be awesome!

You have my and many other DIY'ers here (and on the AMG forum I'm sure) support. Keep up the good work, and take pics!

+1
Great post and great replys from all. Except the lone ranger one who must be the carcop or whatever. Im starting my subframe tomorrow on my 06. E350. Looks like it will be easier than i thought.. Like a couple of people said its just a car.. Ive done several on American cars never a mercedes or bmw. But im sure it will be just the same.
Anyway thanks for the great laugh and honest replys.
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Old Sep 3, 2019 | 05:30 PM
  #35  
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2006 E320 CDI
Originally Posted by Bill Martin
Great post and great replys from all. Except the lone ranger one who must be the carcop or whatever. Im starting my subframe tomorrow on my 06. E350. Looks like it will be easier than i thought.. Like a couple of people said its just a car.. Ive done several on American cars never a mercedes or bmw. But im sure it will be just the same.
Anyway thanks for the great laugh and honest replys.
I had my subframe replaced by mercedes, insurance claim, I wanted to do it myself but I didn't have a garage. Like the original OP, they idiot tech didn't torque my lugs and the wheel nearly came off 50 miles later. Mercedes had my vehicle 18 day too.. The subframe was used but locked in good shape, Im pissed that they put on a used one, was an LKQ. Also I think its possible to misalign the subframe when installing it. One wheel is further forward by 1/4“. Although I have no noticeable tire wear between the two front tires.
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