Install instructions for airmatic compressor and relay
Thanks,
William
I own a 2004 e500 4matic wagon - I found the replacement process so far - easier then expected...
I have hit an issue - one of the connectors seems to have a wire disconnected? I am going to try and fix a workaround - until such time I can replace the connector...
however - so far - I found the process better then expected..
Air compressor is located in the driver side wheel well - front tire wheel well cover - three small bolts....to replace it.
One air line - two electric connectors (one of mine is broken)
Pictures to follow -
Instructions also state you need to replace the air compressor relay - which I am now researching....
Pictures to follow.....
I own a 2004 e500 4matic wagon - I found the replacement process so far - easier then expected...
I have hit an issue - one of the connectors seems to have a wire disconnected? I am going to try and fix a workaround - until such time I can replace the connector...
however - so far - I found the process better then expected..
Air compressor is located in the driver side wheel well - front tire wheel well cover - three small bolts....to replace it.
One air line - two electric connectors (one of mine is broken)
Pictures to follow -
Instructions also state you need to replace the air compressor relay - which I am now researching....
Pictures to follow.....

do you have pistures?..Im trying to install mine!....I got into an accident and the compressor felt...some lines got cut off...I jist want to see where everthing goes!..thank you
What you should do - is replace the 'connector' with the correct MB part - I did not do that and it was a mistake..... just go to a MB dealer - tell him what you are doing and the part is CHEAP....
good luck - I did not take pictures - thanks
Jasper
Not hard at all.
Besides, it really only goes on ONE WAY....
Not hard at all.
Besides, it really only goes on ONE WAY....
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I own a 2004 e500 4matic wagon - I found the replacement process so far - easier then expected...
I have hit an issue - one of the connectors seems to have a wire disconnected? I am going to try and fix a workaround - until such time I can replace the connector...
however - so far - I found the process better then expected..
Air compressor is located in the driver side wheel well - front tire wheel well cover - three small bolts....to replace it.
One air line - two electric connectors (one of mine is broken)
Pictures to follow -
Instructions also state you need to replace the air compressor relay - which I am now researching....
Pictures to follow.....

hi...I was wondering if you still have your old compressor?...thank you
Make sure you connected the compressor correctly. If you did - then it's either the air shocks themselves or the air lines - my guess is it's the lines. I DID have two of my lines replaced by a local guy who works on only MB - it was not that expensive. Unless your game to replace the lines - then try replacing one of the lines and see if that 'wheel' works. This will confirm it's the lines and not the air shocks. Good luck and tell us how you make out.
Jaspergoalie




Compressor rebuild kits sell for $17, so why buy another unknown, when you can rebuild yours?
You can see my topic at https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...e-rebuild.html
My pump ran but slowly over the course of 3 months quit bringing the car to ride height. I figured it was the pump and then one morning it didn't whir at all and I got the red light.
I ordered the part on Ebay for $200 which I was happy with and parked it until tonight when it got here. I finally found a jack that would slide under and got it up and the wheel off. After getting the front inner cover off it looked like this was going to be as easy as everyone said it was. I was wrong.
Two things have gone wrong; First, two of the mount bolts sheared off but still won't come off the mount pin so the pump is just hanging there and I can't get the damn things to slide down and off, then second is the air hose with the filter on it. it pulled off the other end from the pump and I cannot see where it connects.
Any ideas what to do, especially with the mount?
thanks in advance,
Rick




Can you reach the broken ends on other side?
The air hose from filter goes via a hole in sheet metal and goes under small finger there. Nothing really solid to hold it, just some shaped metal.

Mine would work sporadically but never lift the car completely. After 3 months I finally got the red light and the pump no longer came on.
I replaced the pump, easy except for the bolts breaking, and the car lifts and holds like it should.




If you hear the compressor running, that is indication that electrical part works.
Now checking out if the compressor is wear out of leak in the system would take reading the pressure build up.
With compressor rebuild kits running for $17 I think starting with new piston ring, new air filter and baking the drier granules can benefit higher mileage car regardless if there is a leak or not.
What I did was to use a hacksaw and cut the two broken studs off flush with the bracket. These are about 7mm and are mild steel so it wasn't difficult. By hand this was about 10min. I then drilled a small pilot hole (3/32) and then a 1/4" hole roughly thru the center of the stud. I was not very concerned with accuracy just close enough.
Because I live in a small town, metric hardware is difficult to get. I decided on 4" - 10-24 Stainless bolts that are threaded all the way to the head.
For each "stud replacement" I used this bolt with a washer below the head, pushed thru the bracket where I drilled the hole, then another flat washer, lock washer and nut. I tightened this to a reasonable approximation of the stud that broke.
I then ran 2 nuts up to about where the shoulder of the stud was and locked them against each other to provide something that the spring guide could jam against. I then put another fender washer on the stud, put the compressor with the rubber boot and spring on the shaft, and inserted the spring guide. Here I put a flat washer and nylon lock nut. I ran the lock nut up until the compressor was pretty level and then moved my jam nuts down.
I should have left them loose in the first place and made it easier to move them down later after the compressor was level.
At that point I could reconnect the electrics and air hose.
Something I wanted to point out for people that don't have a full shop with lift and such. Getting a cheap floor jack under the car when the air is out is difficult. I placed a series of 2x4's and 2x6's in a pyramid with an area about the size of my tires footprint about 4.5" tall, and drove up that before jacking the car up. This allowed me to get my normal jack in the lifting point under the drivers door. Remember to put a jack stand under the drive train because things move when you are working on stuff. Also, put your pyramid back after the tire is on so you can get your jack out from under the car again.




I had similar situation with it dangling, but once I star pushing it into the hole, it come pretty obvious where it has to go.




Do you see a hole in hose size in front piece of metal? Take a picture and maybe that will jog my memory as I was doing it like 3 years ago.






