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Not much trouble at all. About 30 mins each side. They are just the housing not the entire mirror. Thanks for the feedback
On a side note I do notice the new led blinker isn't as bright as the OEM. In daylight at least.
Originally Posted by LemonSqueezy
I like the mirror covers. How much trouble was it to convert it?
My idea of owning nice things is to take care of them. People who neglect their vehicle's baffle me. I'm diggin your mirror update btw, I may consider doing the same, except i'd like to have auto folding feature... I've never had auto folding mirrors on any of my vehicles
Thanks!! And I have one folding mirror coming in from Germany ($70)shipped so one more and the switch and I'm up and folding lol
Originally Posted by cmriv
My idea of owning nice things is to take care of them. People who neglect their vehicle's baffle me. I'm diggin your mirror update btw, I may consider doing the same, except i'd like to have auto folding feature... I've never had auto folding mirrors on any of my vehicles
Thanks!! And I have one folding mirror coming in from Germany ($70)shipped so one more and the switch and I'm up and folding lol
Only $70 for folding? Is that for the 07-09 style mirrors? I've looked around before and the only thing I could find was a set of motors for the folding mirror + switch for about $1000 USD. I need some more detail lol
Yes that's 07-09 but it's just the passenger side only used coming from Germany. I can get the motors from the dealer at wholesale cost but I'm choosing to be patient and find them slowly for cheap used overseas where it was an option in Germany and the UK . I have a friend looking for them as well so if I do get more then I need lol I'll keep the members on here posted.
Originally Posted by LemonSqueezy
Only $70 for folding? Is that for the 07-09 style mirrors? I've looked around before and the only thing I could find was a set of motors for the folding mirror + switch for about $1000 USD. I need some more detail lol
Yes that's 07-09 but it's just the passenger side only used coming from Germany. I can get the motors from the dealer at wholesale cost but I'm choosing to be patient and find them slowly for cheap used overseas where it was an option in Germany and the UK . I have a friend looking for them as well so if I do get more then I need lol I'll keep the members on here posted.
Interesting, do you have the part numbers for the motors, the switch and anything else necessary?
Looks good, from what I understand the"C" infront of the color code in the door jam stands for ceramic, I is supposed to prevent swirls and because of that I'm iffy about Buffing it in fear of removing that ceramic layer in the factory clear coat. Could be wrong but look into it. Don't think a clay bar would effect it though.
Originally Posted by cmriv
washed. waxed. only this side was clay-bared... front, rear, and other side clay-bared on another day....
don't mind the dirt in the groves of my ME... about that... 😏😁
Looks good, from what I understand the"C" infront of the color code in the door jam stands for ceramic, I is supposed to prevent swirls and because of that I'm iffy about Buffing it in fear of removing that ceramic layer in the factory clear coat. Could be wrong but look into it. Don't think a clay bar would effect it though.
never knew that. however i will say day and night difference in reflection and sleekness. Im going to eventually "7 step" my ride but this will do for now. Wish i could show the difference in paint clarity but only the naked eye serves justsice.
Oh believe me I know I have the black and I'm sure it looks amazing!!
Originally Posted by cmriv
never knew that. however i will say day and night difference in reflection and sleekness. Im going to eventually "7 step" my ride but this will do for now. Wish i could show the difference in paint clarity but only the naked eye serves justsice.
Well,
I had a DIY day yesterday! Call an independent and asked the charge for air, cabin filter change along with spark plugs. Quote came in at $500! Not to be rude, but hung up the phone and laughed! Called a local auto parts store and ordered filters and plugs for a grand total of $165.00. Pick them up, stopped by and picked up a sixer of IPA. Got home and 1 hr, all was completed, then had an ice cold Lagunitas IPA!!
I like the throttle responsiveness with the new plugs! NGK Lasers!
So guys I just received is BRAND NEW (take off) Amg/sport wheel with paddle shifter. And yes I'd rather the black paddles then the silver because I think they match better. The only thing is I'm going to lose my beloved burl wood wheel!! What do you guys think I should do??
OH AND BTW I PAID $145 SHIPPED!!
I know it can't possibly get any better then that!!
Last edited by W211_350WagoN; Apr 30, 2015 at 06:49 PM.
2006 4Matic wagon Elegance, Infiniti 2004 G35 Sport, 1969 Jaguar XKE (s) 1988 Camaro Convert (s)
Marker light replacement
Last night on the way home my speedo lit up telling me my right front marker lite is out. Got a new bulb this morning (Sylvania 2825). Popped the orange cover with a large flat screwdriver and there was the culprit. One twist to the left and insert the new bulb. Check to see if it works...it did. Replace the cover and JOB DONE! Really it took longer to write this than the actual replacement.
So guys I just received is BRAND NEW (take off) Amg/sport wheel with paddle shifter. And yes I'd rather the black paddles then the silver because I think they match better. The only thing is I'm going to lose my beloved burl wood wheel!! What do you guys think I should do??
OH AND BTW I PAID $145 SHIPPED!!
I know it can't possibly get any better then that!!
but damn look how much fresher that leather on the paddle shift s/wheel is
I loaded a new software map into my ECU to delete EGR and swirl motor on my 08 E320 Bluetec. The swirl motor failure sends you into limp mode. I've been working with the vendor for several months to get this load and found him through the Jeep forums who have been doing this on their V-6 and Sprinter diesels for years.
It has more if a diesel rattle, but the power transformation was amazing, she smooths out quickly and pulls hard past 80. It was a very noticeable difference in power. Fuel economy is also supposed to get much better, but I have to get my right foot calibrated away from the fun pedal before I can report that data.
Next job is the dreaded oil cooler leak, gathering tools and parts and hope to be ready shortly.
The oil cooler leak is a pain to fix GL with that did mine back in march. https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post6369327
I also did the resistor mod to get rid of the swirl motor.
Which tune did you go with that is next on my list.
Trey,
I meant to thank you for posting the pictures of your oil cooler job. I read your post earlier today and it does give me more insight to what lies ahead. What are the landmines in the job? I guess the turbo and EGR bolts will be happy where they are and fight removal, but the rest of it looked fairly straightforward. I did buy the hose clamp pliers, that should help.
I used http://www.greendieselengineering.com, started the process back in November since they were reported to be responsive with the Jeep guys. Mercedes was a tougher nut to crack since we have a different level of EPA subroutines in our script. Their old school interface module didn't play well and we worked with the newer model until we got the load to work.
He hasn't updated his website yet to reflect the MB load works but if you shoot him an email and tell him Len referred you, he will remember our journey. I worked with both Keith and Matt, great guys and highly recommended.
Best $700 I've spent in awhile, I'm sure I will recoup it in fuel after the fun wears off, it really is surprising how much better it pushes you back in the seat, can't keep my foot out of it just yet.
He also does a regen delete for the Jeep guys that could be done but would require some exhaust system modification. We throw a fair amount of fuel down the pipe just to run the regen system. The Jeep guys don't report any soot accumulation from the mod and I think it was a $100 add-on the last time I saw a post about it. PM me if you want more details about it and I will try to locate the posting.
Well a few things to think about make sure you have plenty of shop towels as it gets very very messy. Plan to spend 3-4 hours cleaning out intakes but be very careful of the plastic as you don't want to break one like I did. Also plan to leave them out in the sun for a few hours or overnight to dry out as after cleaning them out with two cans of break cleaner and rinsing them out they take awhile to dry out.
Make sure to get all torque values before starting and keep the millions of bolts organized. Take a ton of pictures so you can reference them if needed. The egr valve is a huge pain to remove (mine had been only on the car for 20k. The bolts that go onto the exhaust and the back of the turbo are probably the hardest part of the job due to the location and the angle they are set at just make sure you are using high quality tools so you don't strip something. The fuel rail is a huge pain in the *** you have to be rough with it but also careful at the same time as you have so many breakable parts. If you have any questions or get stuck on something take a picture and PM me and I will try to help out sorry it is so rambled I am on cold meds and may have had a drink with them lol
As for the tune I emailed them a few months ago just waiting to save up the money they seem to be the most recommended on the jeep forums.
Last edited by samaritrey; May 7, 2015 at 07:32 PM.
Thanks for the tips and offer for moral support Trey! Good luck with the cold or at least have fun with the meds, NyQuil will at least knock you out and make you get some rest....
So guys I just received is BRAND NEW (take off) Amg/sport wheel with paddle shifter. And yes I'd rather the black paddles then the silver because I think they match better. The only thing is I'm going to lose my beloved burl wood wheel!! What do you guys think I should do??
OH AND BTW I PAID $145 SHIPPED!!
I know it can't possibly get any better then that!!
Can't you just swap the paddles and wiring to your burlwood wheel? That was certainly possible on the w204s.
Trey,
I meant to thank you for posting the pictures of your oil cooler job. I read your post earlier today and it does give me more insight to what lies ahead. What are the landmines in the job? I guess the turbo and EGR bolts will be happy where they are and fight removal, but the rest of it looked fairly straightforward. I did buy the hose clamp pliers, that should help.
I used http://www.greendieselengineering.com, started the process back in November since they were reported to be responsive with the Jeep guys. Mercedes was a tougher nut to crack since we have a different level of EPA subroutines in our script. Their old school interface module didn't play well and we worked with the newer model until we got the load to work.
He hasn't updated his website yet to reflect the MB load works but if you shoot him an email and tell him Len referred you, he will remember our journey. I worked with both Keith and Matt, great guys and highly recommended.
Best $700 I've spent in awhile, I'm sure I will recoup it in fuel after the fun wears off, it really is surprising how much better it pushes you back in the seat, can't keep my foot out of it just yet.
He also does a regen delete for the Jeep guys that could be done but would require some exhaust system modification. We throw a fair amount of fuel down the pipe just to run the regen system. The Jeep guys don't report any soot accumulation from the mod and I think it was a $100 add-on the last time I saw a post about it. PM me if you want more details about it and I will try to locate the posting.
If you plan on doing your oil cooler yourself just some helpful tips. Heat alot of it, and lube. Especially for those bolts on the turbo and exhaust that are a pain to get to like Trey said. Brake Kleen and lost of it! DO NOT AND I ABSOLUTELY MEAN DO NOT LET ANY DEBRIS GO INTO THE INTAKE VALLEY, there's enough carbon build up there already, only reason i say that is because that little bit of debris can cause an uneven mating surface for the new cooler seals and it just leaks again. Flush the valley out with brake kleen, to me it works best. Just so you get a understanding of how labor intensive it is, job pays 16 hours. I despise oil cooler jobs
LUBE/HEAT/BREAK KLEEN. If your patient and meticulous like some, you'll be just fine!
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
Marker light replacement
