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I had to replace both side marker bulbs and sockets today, I was getting an intermittent bulb out warning for one or sometimes both sides, and when I checked I found the lights flickering. When I removed the sockets from the fixtures some water came out, and both sockets were completely corroded and green. Unlike some instructions state, you do not have to go from underneath the car on the 07-09 models, you can remove the single plastic rivet holding the bottom of the wheelhouse liner in place and peel it back to reach in and remove the bulb/socket assembly.
I chose to solder the wires to the new socket instead of relying solely on the crimp. The solder will also help protect the connection and wire from corrosion. I do need to go back in there tomorrow and apply dielectric grease around the bulb to help prevent water getting in and corroding the contacts again. Thought I had some on hand but I didn't...
Is this a common problem on the 211 chassis? It seems like they've been replaced before just by the length of the wire. Where would the water be getting in, anyways? Both lenses are intact and the rubber O-ring was present on the old sockets.
Removed right front airstrut for replacement and found upper control arm right side rubber bushing fragged (replacement in the mail) That strut unit barely clears everything trying to get it out on the 4-Matics. I'll have to publish some tips later.
Removed air compressor for rebuild using new piston ring, new filter pads/desiccant and an external Mann WK326 filter (replacements in the mail) This had a lot of moisture in it. Pulled the main solenoid on the compressor and cleaned it too. Wondering if the external multi-solenoid unit can be cleaned up inside as well...
Had friend repair control board for the Driver window switches.
Installed a backup camera to the aftermarket Head Unit.
Replace Brake light switch to stop the ESP error message.
Installed power folding mirrors. Not a hard install. I think I made it harder by over analizing a couple things and had to message a could peeps on here. (Thanks a100steaksauce/mertd93)
Anyways not bad of an install. Definitely cool now. I coded it so now they close when locked and open when unlocked/open door.
Not a cheap mod to do and makes me wonder why the hell they didn't come standard on a $60k car?? It's nice knowing that few people have this mod..lol
Removed right front airstrut for replacement and found upper control arm right side rubber bushing fragged (replacement in the mail) That strut unit barely clears everything trying to get it out on the 4-Matics. I'll have to publish some tips later.
Removed air compressor for rebuild using new piston ring, new filter pads/desiccant and an external Mann WK326 filter (replacements in the mail) This had a lot of moisture in it. Pulled the main solenoid on the compressor and cleaned it too. Wondering if the external multi-solenoid unit can be cleaned up inside as well...
Sleeper save yourself the trouble I have a brand new compressor and willing to let it go for next to nothing .pm me
Saw you previous posted offer to another member and thought he snagged it already. I already broke it down and parts are on the way or I would consider it. Thanks for the offer on the compressor!
Today I painted all 20 MB lug nuts bright silver. They were totally rusted looking. I used the same paint set up as the bright silver AMG wheel I painted the other day.
I was surprised how well everything matched using Dupli-Color High Performance Wheel Coating (HWP101 Silver) and Dupli-Color Wheel Gloss Clearcoat (HWP103 Wheel Coating) as a two step spray bomb process. Dupli-Color offers other wheel colors as well.
Last edited by Sleeper Benz; 06-13-2017 at 12:05 PM.
Bosch or NGK are both good, and both were used at the factory depending on the year/model.
thanks...but how would i know if the plugs i have on currently are with gap or how much gap? since the amazon listed are pre-gapped, do i install em as is or need to mess around with the gapping?
Replaced the front right Air Strut and Upper Control arm. That was fun with 4-Matic (NOT) Did the depleted 9V battery trick to get the air strut deflated. Used a ratchet strap to assist compression then some #12 solid copper wire to keep it that way while I finagled it into place.
Last edited by Sleeper Benz; 06-15-2017 at 10:09 AM.
Finally got a chance to take the key mark out, grabbed a flint gray touch up kit from the local Merc dealer. Used 1500 to sand the area in prep, also used it to knock the paint down after it dried, and applied paint with bamboo skewers from the kitchen (paint brush in the kit sucks). Finished the area down with 3000 followed by a compound and polish. Went to fill her up with gas after the festivities and my gas cap tether popped so I grabbed one of those as well.
Removed the shorted out ATA Siren that was blowing the 7.5 amp fuse. Cut it open to find it was all black, burnt & charred inside. No repairing that one. Ordered a $30 used one hoping to just put some new Varta NiMH batteries in there if needed. New sirens are $150+ US, Chirp Chirp.
Replaced ATA siren with a good used unit and now have my fully functioning alarm back. I was expecting a chirp, chirp , chirp when arming but it's more of a beep, beep, beep sound.
I did not have to program the used siren. It was plug & play so far.
FCP EURO's post (above) showing a new gas cap reminded me that the tether was broken on our W211. So I ordered a new cap. Removed the old cap and tossed it. Popped out the pin that secures the fast end of the tether and removed/tossed the remaining tether stub. Inserted pin through fast end of new tether and set the pin in its hole inside the gas cap/door well. Screwed the new gas cap into place. That's enough for one day.
^
It's no different than manually folding in non folding mirrors. The way the wires are routed inside the mirror bases there is no strain on the turn signal wire at all. I tested this multiple times with out the mirror covers on to make sure 100% nothing would get pinched or pulled.
Now if someone didn't follow where the wires should be clipped into and or routed I'm 100% sure there would be wires that would eventually break due to the stress of back and forth.
06-11-2017, 08:32 PM
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