Robaustin

2007 E550. Clunking sound from right front over bumps. Dealer says, "right front lower ball joint." Competent local independent says, "ball joint in right front torque strut."

Both say, "about $600."

Is this the same ball joint?

Thanks in advance and apologies for unintended redundancies.

Rob

konigstiger

Yes, they are referring to 140 in diagram.

Robaustin

Thanks much, konigstiger. Appreciate the help and the .pdf.

B16RacerN2NR

No they aren't talking about the same joint.

Dealer is saying number 20, independent is saying 140.

konigstiger

20 = lower ball joint to steering knuckle
140 = strut (incorporates bushing and ball joint)

IMHO both are recommending replacement for the same ball joint to strut with independent being more descriptive nevertheless, easily confirmed by presenting diagram and requesting clarification.

B16RacerN2NR

I'm not saying the torque strut isn't bad but if I sent a parts request to my parts department for a lower ball joint, I wouldn't get a torque strut. Also, because the joint in the torque strut isn't available alone. You have to get the entire torque strut.

Robaustin

I'll be taking konigstiger's diagram to the independent for confirmation prior to repair. Thanks!

haris12

If they both around $600 then why not take it to dealer and get it done there. in case they dont fix it first time you can always go back and get it fixed for free. Thing called miss diagnosed . I would take it to dealer but thats me.

Robaustin

Well, good question. The reason is that a while back, the car needed an alignment. The dealer tried twice, blamed it on the tires (brand new pilots), and charged $147. The independent checked the alignment, said it was way off, and did the job right. Since replacing a ball joint typically requires a follow up alignment, the independent is likely the best bet.

Dexion

Here is a solution for you since I acne still remember the symptoms of this world class suspension

If you get a clunk while going over bumps and a clunk while braking hard at low speeds. It is your lower control strut arm.

MacAutoparts on ebay has them for $74.99 and they are heavy duty versions (you can't even move the ball joint with your hand)

If you hear squeaking noises over bumps and the steering feels loose, and you can produce a squeak sound if you push down on that side of the car (your shocks will also feel weak)
That is the what we refer to as the lower ball joint. It connects the lateral control arm to the steering knuckle. This can be bought for under $50 for an oem brand quality replacement.

Also it could be the upper balljoint that sits right on top of the tire and connects the top of the steering knuckle to the upper wishbone or upper control arm. Best way to see if it is that one is to lift the car and shake the wheel to see if there is play from it.

In either case you should find out and replace them asap because bad balljoints will shred your tires and eventually worsen until its unsafe to drive.

Dexion

In order of what normally goes first to last

1)Torque strut control Arm joint
2)Lower Ball Joint to steering knuckle
3)Upper balljoint

Robaustin

Thanks Dexion. Car goes in tomorrow. I'll report the results.

Robaustin

And the verdict is... Right thrust arm. $506, though MaxCare warranty paid all but $50. No more clunking!

vettdvr

What I find interesting is my upper ball joint isn't mounted with 3 bolts but pressed into the control arm and the entire arm appears to have to come out and be replaced.? What's up with this?

I just changed my airmatic strut and disconnected the ball joint to insert the strut as per manual. I origionally thought there would be the 3 easy to remove bolts. But no. 2003 E500.

konigstiger

Your vehicle is equipped with early version left 2113302020, right 2113302120 - current 2113308907 & 2113309007.

vettdvr

If I need upper joints will I have to replace the arm and the joint?

konigstiger

You will need to replace control arm (includes joint) with current part # to comparison shop autohauz.com $154.37 each + free shipping

Dexion

You'll save money buy buying the updated arm used from a ebay or the junkyard since you'd just need the updated part.

vettdvr

The price isn't bad but it is a PITA to get to the bolts that hold the control arm in place and this is clearly why they changed the design IMO.

Gersh320

is that the part that had a blue colored oil filled bushing in 2003? Mine leaked out about 3 years ago and I have not replaced it. I do take it real easy over bumps and when ABS kicks in on snow it thunks like crazy but other than that I have experienced no loss of control or ride comfort. I really do want to replace it though.

Dexion

Best if you replace it. Higher highway speed is when you feel the loss of precision and your tires will begin to shred from the outside.

Gersh320

So it is the thrust arm then? I just want to be sure I'm replacing the right part. Thanks.

Dexion

Yes it is the thrust arm. Sometimes it is called the strut arm or lower control arm or is pretty much the only silver looking object on the lower part of the suspension

Gersh320

right on right on, thanks

thesheikh

subscribed. this may be useful in the future.