E-Class (W211) 2003-2009

EBC Redstuff Brake Pads - any thoughts?

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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 02:28 PM
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RobF15e's Avatar
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2006 Golf TDI 2007 E-320 Bluetec
EBC Redstuff Brake Pads - any thoughts?

Has anyone used EBC Redstuff brake pads? I am looking at putting them on my 07 Bluetec. I am hoping they will dust less than the current pads which foul the wheels within a week. I have 83,000 on the car, but I picked it up with 60,000 and don't know if the pads have been changed yet. A visual inspection while cleaning the rims revealed that the driver's rear rotor is starting to get grooved, so I am guessing it is time to make some changes. I am going to pull the wheels today as I change the oil so I can get a good look at the brakes.
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 08:42 PM
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E320
i know that most people are putting Akebono brake pads, i am using them as well on my 04 E320 with R1 concept drilled and slotted brake rotors and pretty much no brake dust. I agree Mercedes brake pads are horrible with dust
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 09:10 PM
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dont get EBC...I had them and they ruined my rotors twice. They are too "powerful" for rotors so they make these hot spots on the rotors
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 10:29 PM
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Another round of ICE
+4 for Akebono....I use that number as that is the number of cars I am running them on, and all are outstanding. Essentially no dust and great performance. For MB, be sure to look for the EUR version of Akebono pads, and get the right part number for your model.
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 09:27 AM
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2006 Golf TDI 2007 E-320 Bluetec
Thanks for the input. Akebono it will be. Any suggestions on perfered rotors? I noticed both solid and vented rotors available. Obviously the vented rotors are much thicker (and it seems a little bit smaller diameter) than the solid rotors. I would assume there are different calipers for the vented rotors? Any inputs?
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 09:28 AM
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get OEM solid and call it a day. You can get aftermarket too, which I am running Zimmerman. Turned out to be more $$$ then OEM! lol
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 09:37 AM
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2006 Golf TDI 2007 E-320 Bluetec
I was looking at Bremo solids from Auto Parts Warehouse. They were $60 ea for the rears. It seems that only my rear driver's side has any real wear on it. It has a good lip and some waves forming. The other three are smooth as can be. I checked the temps on all four yesterday after a drive to see if the brake at that side was dragging, but it was only 10 degrees hotter than the others. I may check it again right after performing a couple of 60-0 stops and see if it gets hotter under a heavier load. When I change the brakes I am going to take a good look at the caliper and clean/lube the slide pins.
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 09:40 AM
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2006 Golf TDI 2007 E-320 Bluetec
Currently I don't have any warning on the dash that the brakes need changing, just the fact that I am noticing a change in the rear rotor. Plus I have started to hear a little bit of a squeal once in a while when I stop.
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 05:37 PM
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I bought new front MB brake pads in August from the dealer and there is MUCH LESS brake dust than before. In fact, my rears, which i didnt change, dirtied my rims two times more than my fronts are. It's a huge difference. However, i feel like they don't stop as well, but it may be just that i have a different tire on now.
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 11:30 AM
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2006 Golf TDI 2007 E-320 Bluetec
I finally pulled the wheels and checked the brakes. I learned that vented rotors are only on the front of the Bluetecs. The rears are solid. The wheels can be a bugger to get off due to corrosion around the wheel hub so after cleaning any corrosion add a bit of high temp grease around the hub. The driver's side rear rotor and pads were not as bad as I thought. There is a bit more wear .4mm than the passenger side, but it was still well above the minimum. The pad looks like it still has 10-15,000 left. The fronts were only about half way done. I think I'll just order some new pads for the rear and turn the rotors. Then I'll easliy be able to compare the amount of brake dust between the current pads and the new ones. Thanks for the guidance. It will be a few weeks before I get around to doing the brakes. I still need to change the fuel filter (seems to be more work than it should be) and flush the cooling system. I'll flush the brake system when I do the rears. I'll post the dust comparision once I have completed the work. Now to find some good posts on fuel filter and cooling DITY.
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