URGENT: NHTSA Opens investigation into fuel leaks on the W211 E Class
For a recall the price for the parts will probably be around $200 (maybe even less) and they buy hours at the dealer at cost +10% which is about $40/hour.
So to fix this it is less that $500/car. Also keep in mind that the $3000 is amount of hours per the book. A skilled tech can do this work in much less time.
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what are people doing to get their car to pass emissions? even when i reset the light it comes back on pretty quickly. before it would take some time but now it comes back almost right away. i was talking to the guys at autohaus in Arizona and they said because i don't leak outside of the car only get the interior gas smell that i could try putting some caulking/sealer to try and stop the leak. any thoughts on this idea?
appreciate any help, i wasn't aware i was going to have to do emissions this month and now i'm worried i won't get this sorted out in time.
what are people doing to get their car to pass emissions? even when i reset the light it comes back on pretty quickly. before it would take some time but now it comes back almost right away. i was talking to the guys at autohaus in Arizona and they said because i don't leak outside of the car only get the interior gas smell that i could try putting some caulking/sealer to try and stop the leak. any thoughts on this idea?
appreciate any help, i wasn't aware i was going to have to do emissions this month and now i'm worried i won't get this sorted out in time.
You could try some JBweld or Loc-Tite or some other brand of epoxy that is specifically designed for fuel contact. Make sure your tank is below 3/4 full.....clean those areas as completely as possible then flood those areas with the epoxy. I'd leave the fuel cap off while it's curing to prevent internal pressure for the tank from messing up the seal.
The problem is that if you dump a bunch of epoxy on those senders you could create a real headache for yourself when you finally go to fix things properly...
-G
If it seals correctly then it will resolve the codes for "small evap leak"...
Not sure what specific codes you've got.
Correct solution is to replace the senders completely, that way you also get a new fuel filter (which is required maintenance anyway at 60,000 miles)... But the epoxy trick might band-aid things temporarily.
-G
I read on mine that it says "Do not top off" so once the pump stops, that is all that I put in. I don't think I have a problem.
The problem is that if you dump a bunch of epoxy on those senders you could create a real headache for yourself when you finally go to fix things properly...
-G
Once I get my old E500 back, which had this issue (presumably still does), I'll be filling out the NHTSA forms. I don't want to do it until I for sure have the car back in my possession.
Filed my complaint with the NHTSA
The smell is so strong that I simply can't leave it in the garage anymore. The car now sits outside getting beat down by the weather.
As far as emissions go. My check engine light is on. If you want to pass smog disconnect the battery in the trunk for 10 minutes. Reconnect. Reset milage counter. Drive for 200 miles. Go get the smoke check. Fill up only half way at the gas pump while driving. I've done this the last three years. It usually takes 1500 miles to have the light reilluminate
As far as emissions go. My check engine light is on. If you want to pass smog disconnect the battery in the trunk for 10 minutes. Reconnect. Reset milage counter. Drive for 200 miles. Go get the smoke check. Fill up only half way at the gas pump while driving. I've done this the last three years. It usually takes 1500 miles to have the light reilluminate
http://www.nytimes.com/aponline/2014...robe.html?_r=0
Does it mean we have a 15-year warranty for that problem?




http://www.nytimes.com/aponline/2014...robe.html?_r=0
Does it mean we have a 15-year warranty for that problem?




