Anyone replaced h/k factory speakers with aftermarket?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 356
Likes: 19
From: RI
2017 S550 4matic
Anyone replaced h/k factory speakers with aftermarket?
Hey all,
Looking to possibly replace my door speakers and maybe even the factory sub in the rear deck with some aftermarket stuff. My car is a US comand, Harmon/Kardon sound system.
The reason i want to replace them is 1.) i think one of the rear door speakers is blown, and 2.) the factory speakers don't have enough range for my tastes (the old saying goes 'if it's got no highs, and its got no lows, it's gotta be bose but i think that applies to these h/k units also). Door speakers are a fairly cheap upgrade especially since these H/k cars have amps preinstalled and put out more power than normal systems.
So my questions are these:
1.) I know bose systems typically run on an odd resistance (1ohm instead of 2 or 4). Is this the case with the H/K units?
2.) Does anyone know the actual power output specs on the factory amps? This way I can identify the right speakers to get (i usually go with JL audio)
3.) any success stories/advice? Should I kick for a component system and get new tweeters also? I know it's been done but usually people replace the entire system front to back or just slap subs in the trunk. They're 6.5" speakers, so theres a billion of them out there from $20 a set cheapos to $200+ per set components.
Cheers!
Looking to possibly replace my door speakers and maybe even the factory sub in the rear deck with some aftermarket stuff. My car is a US comand, Harmon/Kardon sound system.
The reason i want to replace them is 1.) i think one of the rear door speakers is blown, and 2.) the factory speakers don't have enough range for my tastes (the old saying goes 'if it's got no highs, and its got no lows, it's gotta be bose but i think that applies to these h/k units also). Door speakers are a fairly cheap upgrade especially since these H/k cars have amps preinstalled and put out more power than normal systems.
So my questions are these:
1.) I know bose systems typically run on an odd resistance (1ohm instead of 2 or 4). Is this the case with the H/K units?
2.) Does anyone know the actual power output specs on the factory amps? This way I can identify the right speakers to get (i usually go with JL audio)
3.) any success stories/advice? Should I kick for a component system and get new tweeters also? I know it's been done but usually people replace the entire system front to back or just slap subs in the trunk. They're 6.5" speakers, so theres a billion of them out there from $20 a set cheapos to $200+ per set components.
Cheers!
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 356
Likes: 19
From: RI
2017 S550 4matic
just found a smoking deal (33% off) on a 10" kicker free-air rated sub also (2 ohm 10c102, so I just snagged that and am going to give it a shot. Anyone know how much power the stock amp puts out? The specs say it'll run anywhere from 50-150 RMS with a 300W peak, and it has a 30-500hz freq. response range so it should be a really good replacement for the factory HK sub. Plus, with almost 10mm max excursion I should get a good amount of thump out of it too 
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 61
Likes: 1
From: Concord, NC
2008 E320
I spoke to my car audio installer yesterday, doing an upgrade on my 2008 audio. They said upgrading the speakers is a major job - full rewire. They recommended removing factory sub and replacing with box in the trunk (installing a 15" JL and new JL amp). They said the factory speakers are actually pretty good when you have a good sub paired with it. They are doing the work next week... can't wait.
Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
2003 e320
I rewired and install this by myself. Changed all speakers and sub. Works cool.
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/ina-w900bt
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/ina-w900bt
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 356
Likes: 19
From: RI
2017 S550 4matic
attempted replacing the sub yesterday....wow I was in over my head. Everything went smoothly until trying to remove the driver's side rear headrest. Only thing that held me up. It's built with a sheetmetal box around it that's screwed in on the top with torx screws, but it's spot welded all the way around with a bulkhead on the left (facing the back of the car) side.
The sub I bought will definitely fit in the enclosure once I cut out the grill on the underside in the trunk to acommodate the larger magnet (because i'll have to mount it magnet down instead of magnet up like the factory unit due to the difference in height) and should make a huge difference in sound output over the factory one.
Some things I noticed about the factory unit:
-cheapo PAPER cone, couldn't even tell what the surround was made of = next to no cone excursion
-Mounted cone down, which wouldn't be a problem if there wasnt a metal basket going up into the cone further deflecting sound waves and limiting woofer excursion
-Magnet on top is covered by some paper nonsense and is REALLY small (factory magnet is appx. 2-2.5" across where the kicker's magnet is about 4-4.5"! = much more punch)
All in all Harmon/Kardon did an OK job with the factory setup, but their sub is severely lacking. I think replacing that sub should be the first move for any w211 owner looking for a little more punch out of their system. It has the potential to be much cheaper and easier than adding a box and auxiliary amp to the factory system, and employs the factory amp which has more than enough power to run the kicker 10C2.
The sub I bought will definitely fit in the enclosure once I cut out the grill on the underside in the trunk to acommodate the larger magnet (because i'll have to mount it magnet down instead of magnet up like the factory unit due to the difference in height) and should make a huge difference in sound output over the factory one.
Some things I noticed about the factory unit:
-cheapo PAPER cone, couldn't even tell what the surround was made of = next to no cone excursion
-Mounted cone down, which wouldn't be a problem if there wasnt a metal basket going up into the cone further deflecting sound waves and limiting woofer excursion
-Magnet on top is covered by some paper nonsense and is REALLY small (factory magnet is appx. 2-2.5" across where the kicker's magnet is about 4-4.5"! = much more punch)
All in all Harmon/Kardon did an OK job with the factory setup, but their sub is severely lacking. I think replacing that sub should be the first move for any w211 owner looking for a little more punch out of their system. It has the potential to be much cheaper and easier than adding a box and auxiliary amp to the factory system, and employs the factory amp which has more than enough power to run the kicker 10C2.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 61
Likes: 1
From: Concord, NC
2008 E320
My local installer (Freemans in Concord NC) upgraded mine Friday... I'm blown away by the difference.
They removed the factory sub (and gave it back to me - and I agree - this is a sub??) and installed a new sealed 12" JL with 500 watt JL sub behind the seats (not in original location), installed a Sub volume control under my cigarette lighter, and relocated my iPhone cable to the old ashtray. Blown away by the sound quality improvement!
Factory HK speakers sound much better since they aren't trying to also support the weak sub. The car thumps like I want, yet is tight. Factory speakers are quite good (not as good as my MB Quart in my W124 but still quite good). Old sub was just a pile of mush for low-end. Now I can hear distinct and different bass notes.
Cost me $1100, but was worth it. They did awesome work - looks factory installed, no rattles, etc and was done in 1 day.
They removed the factory sub (and gave it back to me - and I agree - this is a sub??) and installed a new sealed 12" JL with 500 watt JL sub behind the seats (not in original location), installed a Sub volume control under my cigarette lighter, and relocated my iPhone cable to the old ashtray. Blown away by the sound quality improvement!
Factory HK speakers sound much better since they aren't trying to also support the weak sub. The car thumps like I want, yet is tight. Factory speakers are quite good (not as good as my MB Quart in my W124 but still quite good). Old sub was just a pile of mush for low-end. Now I can hear distinct and different bass notes.
Cost me $1100, but was worth it. They did awesome work - looks factory installed, no rattles, etc and was done in 1 day.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 65
Likes: 2
From: Phoenix, AZ
2006 E55k in Blue Capri
just found a smoking deal (33% off) on a 10" kicker free-air rated sub also (2 ohm 10c102, so I just snagged that and am going to give it a shot. Anyone know how much power the stock amp puts out? The specs say it'll run anywhere from 50-150 RMS with a 300W peak, and it has a 30-500hz freq. response range so it should be a really good replacement for the factory HK sub. Plus, with almost 10mm max excursion I should get a good amount of thump out of it too
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Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
04 mercedes-benz e320 4matic
Hey all,
Looking to possibly replace my door speakers and maybe even the factory sub in the rear deck with some aftermarket stuff. My car is a US comand, Harmon/Kardon sound system.
The reason i want to replace them is 1.) i think one of the rear door speakers is blown, and 2.) the factory speakers don't have enough range for my tastes (the old saying goes 'if it's got no highs, and its got no lows, it's gotta be bose but i think that applies to these h/k units also). Door speakers are a fairly cheap upgrade especially since these H/k cars have amps preinstalled and put out more power than normal systems.
So my questions are these:
1.) I know bose systems typically run on an odd resistance (1ohm instead of 2 or 4). Is this the case with the H/K units?
2.) Does anyone know the actual power output specs on the factory amps? This way I can identify the right speakers to get (i usually go with JL audio)
3.) any success stories/advice? Should I kick for a component system and get new tweeters also? I know it's been done but usually people replace the entire system front to back or just slap subs in the trunk. They're 6.5" speakers, so theres a billion of them out there from $20 a set cheapos to $200+ per set components.
Cheers!
Looking to possibly replace my door speakers and maybe even the factory sub in the rear deck with some aftermarket stuff. My car is a US comand, Harmon/Kardon sound system.
The reason i want to replace them is 1.) i think one of the rear door speakers is blown, and 2.) the factory speakers don't have enough range for my tastes (the old saying goes 'if it's got no highs, and its got no lows, it's gotta be bose but i think that applies to these h/k units also). Door speakers are a fairly cheap upgrade especially since these H/k cars have amps preinstalled and put out more power than normal systems.
So my questions are these:
1.) I know bose systems typically run on an odd resistance (1ohm instead of 2 or 4). Is this the case with the H/K units?
2.) Does anyone know the actual power output specs on the factory amps? This way I can identify the right speakers to get (i usually go with JL audio)
3.) any success stories/advice? Should I kick for a component system and get new tweeters also? I know it's been done but usually people replace the entire system front to back or just slap subs in the trunk. They're 6.5" speakers, so theres a billion of them out there from $20 a set cheapos to $200+ per set components.
Cheers!
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