So...2007 and beyond for the E350? I really like this car... Also after the 134k mark, can it still be the balance shaft? Can the Poo16 be a smaller problem? I really like the car.

thanks all

 

Yes, there are people here who run into this problem when they have 160k. It's also possible it's a smaller problem, but most of the time it isn't. Could just be the sensor/magnets. But most people who report back say it isn't.

 

So worst case scenario, If it is the balance shaft, what would you do?
1. Repair it at an independence shop?
2. Drive it until there are major issues?
3 swap it out with a non-affected engine?

Im really at a loss of what to do.

Thanks again

 

When did you buy it? I think AZ has a 15 day, 500 mile used car warranty. Have the dealer fix it if that's the case.

As for what to do if it isn't, things aren't pretty. If you can't do it yourself, the cheapest would be at an independent mechanic. But make sure they know how to do it, someone also had a private shop do it and it didn't run quite right afterwards. You could keep driving it, but I think eventually it just won't start, you just have a few thousand miles before it stops completely, just the luck of the draw. As for replacing the engine, it's probably about the same cost, you'd have to get a 2007+ engine that didn't have the problem. But used engines are still in the $2000 range so it's probably about the same as taking it out and fixing it.

 

It’s a small dealer I purchased the car from. I contacted him yesterday (Saturday) and which he agreed to speak on Monday. Saturday was the 15th day after the purchase, but the first day code P0016 came up. We will see what happens then.
Also, what impact would changing the cam sensors have on the situation? Would that clear the code and resolve any of the concern?

Thanks

 

Well if it's not the cam sensors, then it won't fix it and you'll still get the code. It's very unlikely that's the cause. But if your dealer honors the warranty, let him fix it. It will probably cost so much that he'd be better off just buying the car back from you.

 

Cetialpha5, you’ve been very helpful. Do you know if these 15 day warranties cover a situation like this?. It’s a known issue, but the car is still running.

The car was sold “as is” , but I guess there is the 15 day warranty....does this fit the criteria? Just wondering what to expect or ask for when we speak.


Thanks again

 

Jimbo (post #422) is the best route you can take. If you don't do what's in the video to verify the mechanical positions of the cams - you'll never know 100% that it's the balance shaft. The codes do pop up in pairs (P0016 and 17 or 1200 / 1208). There is a note in the bulletin (attached) that states - "In rare cases, a stretched timing chain might be the reason for the DTC fault codes when the sprocket does not exhibit any signs of wear." That's why the check in the video is so important.

 

HE PROBABLY RESET THE CODES AND THAT TURNED OFF THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, ITS THE BALANCE SHAFT NOT THE SENSORS, DONT LET YOURSELF THINK ITS THE SENSORS, A NON MOVING PART IS NOT THE CULPRIT, COMMON SENSE SAYS ITS A MOVING PART(BALANCE SHAFT) GOOD LUCK
WAS THE CHECK ENG LIGHT ON WHEN YOU BOUGHT IT?

 

I’m going to try the example in the video...

No , the check engine light was not on at the time of purchase...I wouldn’t have bought it. It ran fine on the test drive and still does. I’m obviously concerned about the horror stories of the P0016 code.

Thanks for all your replies

 

Well they are true, my balance shaft was 50% or more gone at 45k, $6400 repair at MB, MBUSA did cover 15%. Mine was running fine too. I wouldnt bother checking the timing markers, im sure the issue is the balance shaft. Ill add a pic.

I was able to reset the codes with a cheap code reader and they came back in about 50 miles, sounds like thats what he did.

 

Not familiar with AZ law. How did it go with the dealer? Maybe you should say you're going to contact the attorney general or the state dealer licensing authority.

But yes, clearing the codes is one way to get around it, but the way to find that out is with a code reader and checking the readiness status. If it's not ready, that's usually a clue that the codes have been reset. Usually you have to go through a bunch of different drive cycles before it's in a ready state after clearing codes.

 

Mine came back after about 50 miles of normal city driving and reset them with a $30 reader. Sounds like the dealer pulled a fast one

 

What did you find out, Ronald12, and what did you decide to do?

 

What happened?

 

The dealer gave a me $2000 back on my purchase. As I said earlier, it’s a small dealer , so I was able to negotiate a small deal. I will save that money and hope for the best. I really like the car , and if I need to make that repair, I’m halfway there.

 

Thanks for letting us know. Do go ahead and get a definitive diagnosis, and if it is the balance shaft, don't wait too long on the repair.

Good luck.

 

Well at least that something but it’s not halfway there. My repair was $6400 with the 15% that MB USA covered my out-of-pocket was $5400. I checked with two independent shops that didn’t want to touch the repair.

I still think that dealer pulled a fast one and reset the code before he sold the car.

just found out today that the service agent I was dealing with is no longer there now I feel like I have no history with my local MB dealer even though they have my records

Now I am dreading the next big issue with this car the SBC unit since the recall only extended to 10 year warranty which the car is when you’re out of.

Good luck with the car but The chances it’s the balance shaft are very good

 

So Shack were there any symptoms of the camshaft before your repair? How did you realize? Did it throw codes and if so, which one(s)?

After the repair could you tell the difference in performance in the car? How many miles were on your car?

Thanks

 

Hi,
im looking to buy a CLK 280 2006, the engine code is 272940 30 332305
is this in the problem range?
thankyou G

 

272 clean point is 30 468993 so yes, 332305 is within affected range.

 

No symptoms at all at 44700 miles. Was getting around 21mpg in town. Without warning get a check eng light, read codes p0016, p0017.
Confirmed with diagnosis at the dealer $180, which was later applied to the repair.
Now the car does seam to have a slight bit better acceleration, might be due to resetting the computer and trans but
now the milage is a little poorer, lol.
Good luck but be prepared to have this repair done, otherwise you will not pass smog with a check engine light.

 

Whats the price and milage?

 

Decided to look for another one, too risky, mileage was 75,000 miles price £5,650

looked at the mot “only a month ago” and the advise was engine light on, it’s wasn’t on when I test drove the car but it’s not to say that it’s just been reset, car was very clean and very smooth, but would be nervous.

seen another one, engine number 272940 30 849881, I think this is out of the trouble range

 

Mine was not in the "recall" range.
According to the dealer, where do I find the engine number?
Why are you so set on a Merc?