ESP no crank
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 966
Likes: 268
From: Fort Worth TX
2020 S560, 2014 SLK55 (Prev. 2016 S65, 2013 SLK350, 2008 CLS63, 2006 E350, 2006 CLS500, 2005 C230K)
That quick test screen does not help much.
Try printing the summary that has all the errors fund, if the car does not even attempt to crank your answer will probably be there.
Try printing the summary that has all the errors fund, if the car does not even attempt to crank your answer will probably be there.
Last edited by VII; Jun 18, 2013 at 11:35 AM.
Plutoe,
There is a fault that showed up for the ESP. The BCM keeps coming up as a function note...I included a screenshot of the other faults as well. I am a little confused by the SAM one... I have the original SAM in the car...wipers do not work...I wonder if a connection on the bottom is not fully engaged.
There is a fault that showed up for the ESP. The BCM keeps coming up as a function note...I included a screenshot of the other faults as well. I am a little confused by the SAM one... I have the original SAM in the car...wipers do not work...I wonder if a connection on the bottom is not fully engaged.
Perhaps your transmission 13 pin connector is filled with oil causing the ECT to not get valid readings, if I'm not mistaken the ECT must put out a good signal for the eis/das to unlock itself and start the car
Super Member




Joined: May 2011
Posts: 966
Likes: 268
From: Fort Worth TX
2020 S560, 2014 SLK55 (Prev. 2016 S65, 2013 SLK350, 2008 CLS63, 2006 E350, 2006 CLS500, 2005 C230K)
You have no comm with the engine control module, forget the wipers.
Problem is the star can't help you much until you have comm, either your wiring is bad or your control unit is dead.
As a note I am given to understand you can not use a used engine control module as it is VIN linked.
Problem is the star can't help you much until you have comm, either your wiring is bad or your control unit is dead.
As a note I am given to understand you can not use a used engine control module as it is VIN linked.
You have no comm with the engine control module, forget the wipers.
Problem is the star can't help you much until you have comm, either your wiring is bad or your control unit is dead.
As a note I am given to understand you can not use a used engine control module as it is VIN linked.
Problem is the star can't help you much until you have comm, either your wiring is bad or your control unit is dead.
As a note I am given to understand you can not use a used engine control module as it is VIN linked.
i'm not necessarily saying this is the route to take with fixing your problem but yes, you must buy ECU, EIS, the key and possibly the gear selector also as one unit
The connector on the transmission is leaking...I have these in stock, it is the same as the sprinter. I have had them leak but did not realize that it could cause a no-crank situation.
these can cause all sorts of issues, be sure to soak the o rings in tranny fluid prior to installation and torque it to manual specs so you don't have to replace the conductor plate but i'm sure you knew this
my theory is, your transmission isn't sending the proper signal over the canbus to the EIS/DAS that everything is in order with the car so it can start
service the 13 pin plug, then disconnect the battery for half an hour, come back and i bet your car will start
my theory is, your transmission isn't sending the proper signal over the canbus to the EIS/DAS that everything is in order with the car so it can start
service the 13 pin plug, then disconnect the battery for half an hour, come back and i bet your car will start
the car is exhibiting symptoms similar to the no communication with ECU thing like the software you're using is suggesting, however if your ECU was bad the engine fan would run full blast (safe mode) in the event of an ECU failure so i think the problem is somewhere in the DAS/EIS or the tranny computer
Super Member




Joined: May 2011
Posts: 966
Likes: 268
From: Fort Worth TX
2020 S560, 2014 SLK55 (Prev. 2016 S65, 2013 SLK350, 2008 CLS63, 2006 E350, 2006 CLS500, 2005 C230K)
My next step would be to try another module just to see if there is communication with star.
I'm thinking this is a job for s dealer our indie who have pays laying around. Can also buy a used module but as discussed above that will only serve as diagnostic as the car will not start with it.
Spelling courtesy of Swype...
I'm thinking this is a job for s dealer our indie who have pays laying around. Can also buy a used module but as discussed above that will only serve as diagnostic as the car will not start with it.
Spelling courtesy of Swype...
What exactly happens when you try to start it? The key goes in and then rotates? What does the engine do when you try to crank, a click noise or no noise at all? I just put in a bad tcu and now my car won't start so I think it might be your tcu cause mine was doing similar things
I was having the same exact issue when I started swapping out TCU's and then the car ran great for a few days, even took it on a 300 mile trip but now I'm dealing with conductor plate issues
I figured disconnecting the battery was what did the trick for me. I was also swapping between battery's along the time frame the car magically wanted to start again
I also bought a new battery in the process
I've read elsewhere that some people suggest a no start condition can be caused by a bad alternator on an electronically laden car like a Mercedes. I know it doesn't sound right but the advice comes from some mb techs so I'd consider it
I figured disconnecting the battery was what did the trick for me. I was also swapping between battery's along the time frame the car magically wanted to start again
I also bought a new battery in the process
I've read elsewhere that some people suggest a no start condition can be caused by a bad alternator on an electronically laden car like a Mercedes. I know it doesn't sound right but the advice comes from some mb techs so I'd consider it
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2005 e320 cdi 1987 e300d 1999 vw beetle tdi 1988 Saab Turbo convertible 1973 BMW R750 toaster tank
Was the no crank problem ever fixed?
I have a 2005 CDI has the same problem cranks when it feels like it should when does not you're stuck. All lights come on etc but no starter motor or even a click. It would happen was once in a blue moon at first. One day when it did happen in front of my house I grabbed a simple test light. I found no power to the red wire outside of the fuse box that I followed to the starter solenoid. I thought well I am stuck. What can it hurt? It is just like using a remote starter switch. I went inside the car turned the key on- then ran the wire to the battery and the red solenoid wire near the fuse box and she fired right up. Now I am using a jumper wire to start it 50 percent of the Time. So hence the questions was it ever resolved? Thank you for any help on this matter.
2006 e350 no crank or intermittent no crank.. . Under hood relay ki 😉 replace
We have a 2005 E320 CDI with almost 120k on it. Several times late this summer it left my wife stranded. Three times on hot days she shut the car off returned a short time later and it wouldn't crank. Once the car cooled off it would restart with no indication there was ever a problem. Last week it did it again and it hasn't cranked since.
It has acted the same every time. All the dash lights light up...ESP malfunction is displayed...everything works electrically...no crank...no click...nadda. One of the times it did this I tried to scan it for codes and it had a connection error. I switched a few relays... no change.
I have found a few cases of this in various forums but the only one that posted that it had been fixed, didn't really know which module caused the problem. The battery module and "some other module" were replaced and the car was fixed. There are other cases of this with the cooling fan blowing full bore when the car is keyed on. In those cases it seems it is the ECM.
How do I go about testing this? Even better, does someone know what causes this?
Thanks, JR
It has acted the same every time. All the dash lights light up...ESP malfunction is displayed...everything works electrically...no crank...no click...nadda. One of the times it did this I tried to scan it for codes and it had a connection error. I switched a few relays... no change.
I have found a few cases of this in various forums but the only one that posted that it had been fixed, didn't really know which module caused the problem. The battery module and "some other module" were replaced and the car was fixed. There are other cases of this with the cooling fan blowing full bore when the car is keyed on. In those cases it seems it is the ECM.
How do I go about testing this? Even better, does someone know what causes this?
Thanks, JR
If it was a crank shaft positioning sensor issue, it would crank and not start. This is for vehicles that will not crank after sitting parked for several of minutes and takes multiple attempts to cranking the vehicle but turning key several of time before it finally does crank and start. I have found that the relay in ki position under hood has been the culprit. You can switch it with you Air suspension relay and test.
Hello guys
I have similar problem with my w211 320cdi. I drive and suddenly engine stall and starts up again after about 3 seconds.. and it happened again but no longer started itself. I stopped the car and tried to start engine myself but theres no Glow blug light and No Crank No Start. (ABS/ESP malf. Visit Workshop)
All fuses and relays are OK. In front SAM theres one Relay what dont close when i turn ignition on. Ecu just dont want to put Ground in this relay and when i manipulate the relay then i can start a car. I have some error codes like (I have bosch reader)
2133 Glow plug cyl1 Fault operation (Dont
P2311 CAN communication with engine control unit not plausible and coolant temp not plausible (when relay is open, ingition on)
9081 Terminal 61 Signal OPEN CIRCUIT
My Gearbox 13pin socket was replaced but the TCU socket was oily
I have similar problem with my w211 320cdi. I drive and suddenly engine stall and starts up again after about 3 seconds.. and it happened again but no longer started itself. I stopped the car and tried to start engine myself but theres no Glow blug light and No Crank No Start. (ABS/ESP malf. Visit Workshop)
All fuses and relays are OK. In front SAM theres one Relay what dont close when i turn ignition on. Ecu just dont want to put Ground in this relay and when i manipulate the relay then i can start a car. I have some error codes like (I have bosch reader)
2133 Glow plug cyl1 Fault operation (Dont
P2311 CAN communication with engine control unit not plausible and coolant temp not plausible (when relay is open, ingition on)
9081 Terminal 61 Signal OPEN CIRCUIT
My Gearbox 13pin socket was replaced but the TCU socket was oily

A very tiny amount of oil in the 13pin connector shouldn’t disable the car
start with the basics, have you tested fuel pressure? Sometimes a failing crank sensor can shut down a car
start with the basics, have you tested fuel pressure? Sometimes a failing crank sensor can shut down a car
I’m unsure what you mean
but testing fuel pressure is a very important step in diagnosing fuel injected cars. You can save a lot of money and headaches by renting a fuel pressure tester for free
but testing fuel pressure is a very important step in diagnosing fuel injected cars. You can save a lot of money and headaches by renting a fuel pressure tester for free
If it was a crank shaft positioning sensor issue, it would crank and not start. This is for vehicles that will not crank after sitting parked for several of minutes and takes multiple attempts to cranking the vehicle but turning key several of time before it finally does crank and start. I have found that the relay in ki position under hood has been the culprit. You can switch it with you Air suspension relay and test.
Hello, where is relay in ki postion under the hood? i dont now what it meens ki postion? my car is w211 2005 year and it have what problem not crank, not start, and show esp abs
Ten years Later - Old thread never dies
Well, just purchased an 07 E320 CDI NO CRANK NO START I have another one that I bought last year with a knock in the engine but at least it starts. I am hoping to get this newly purchased "dead" car running. So on my first day at it my ICAR Soft tells me it cant commuicate with the ECM.
Did the following - Good Strong Battery 12.5+ volts
No power at Fuse 43 or 44. !
Suspect Front Sam or ECM ground issue.
Scanned the car but did not delete any of the historical codes. ( Perhaps I should go back and do this )
Also got carried away with the Youtube video
and jumpered the start relay and all i got was a fan going full speed and a glow plug light for a few seconds but still no crank.
Don't know where to go from here. I do have a spare car same make and model just wondering if i should change both the front sam and ECU and do another scan.
What do you guys think?
Did the following - Good Strong Battery 12.5+ volts
No power at Fuse 43 or 44. !
Suspect Front Sam or ECM ground issue.
Scanned the car but did not delete any of the historical codes. ( Perhaps I should go back and do this )
Also got carried away with the Youtube video
Don't know where to go from here. I do have a spare car same make and model just wondering if i should change both the front sam and ECU and do another scan.
What do you guys think?






