engine wont turn off with key out

 

Can you give a little more information? The car? Keyless Go? Sorry, you are not making very much sense right now.

 

My car 2006 E-Class (W211) can’t stop the engine. I had driven 100miles and came back to park the car but when I parked the then the key came out but the car won’t stop, it’s still running. So I put the key back in but it won’t turn the key at all. I have two keys so I tried with that key but that did not work as well.
In the screen it says SRS restraint system malfunction visit work shop!
When take the key out with the engine running the radiator fan starts to get really loud as it goes to maximum speed . The key is put back in the ignition without turning it and the radiator fan slows down to normal and the rev counter starts working again as the dash instruments return to normal. At the end I unplugged the black cable from the battery which is at the back and then supplied the diesel from going into the engine which stopped the car but when took the key out the after the car was of the fan started to get loud again so just locked the car and left it in. When the key was in the engine the car would drive just normal.

 

Does your Car manual say any thing about removing some Fuses for an Emergency shutoff the engine ?

 

Engine of by compressing air supply ,just below engine cover two tubes to the right ,once the larger black rubber pipe compressed engine stopped.

Still havent sorted out what the problem is yet . Merc specialist checking out systems this evening.

Thanks

 

Sorry to bring up old thread but did anyone have any luck with this ?

Below is my issue.
Originally happened a few days ago, cleared itself but came back after 30 mins driving and now in the driveway currently running. Overtime i remove key i get the below.

 

Hi

I have just started having exactly the same problem as you - engine still running with key out and restraint message showing. Can you post what the problem was please = my garage appears to be stumped.
Much appreciated

 

Check your alternator , mine had on inspection fused (melted) the wires together and alternator had to be replaced -problem solved.

 

My '09 did exact same thing, alarm horn blared for 20/30 mins til it completely blew out, had to get it towed to dealership stuck in P position. Car stayed there for 2.5 weeks, i didn't get a loaner for that time and almost got stuck with a bill for a new key fob and new EIS (Electronic Ignition Switch). Haven't had any problems since except horn is still out and either blower motor or blower motor resistor is going out...

 

Sorry to dug out this old thread, But I am now having this problem.

mine is turn the key off took it out, the cluster stop working and all system stop working except the engine.

anyone experiencing this?

took the car at the dealer for weeks and doesn't found a thing.

 

To kill the engine use a pair of snipe nosed pliers (flat bit!) and clamp the larger black hose front top of engine under lift off cover. By compressing pipe and shutting off air supply, just below engine cover two tubes to the right ,once the larger black rubber pipe compressed engine stopped. Most likely your battery is low (less than 12.4 - 12.6V) and you need a battery charger on overnight or new battery, tends to happen on mine after longs runs in the rain with wipers and headlights heater etc switched on for drives over 1 hour. I think these cars prefer batteries that hold higher terminal voltages when in use under load, difficult to find though! Sometimes dust in your key fob can cause issues as well so clean that out with an air duster can of compressed air
(sometimes low voltage after long wet drives can cause my car horn to go off when car locked due to ECU not liking low voltage so have disconnected my burglar horn RH wheel housing rear, front horn by radiator and front paired horn in left hand wheel hub front of housing - sorted it) Weirdly the steering wheel calibration sorted mine for a few days, I may have couple of faults I think (mine is 2005 55 plate E320) Don't hang too many keys and weight on your key fob, causes the key barrel to wear unevenly, can cause issues on older cars - just have a tag on your key and no more weight!
Bob

 

Did you ever get yo the bottom of this?

I have the same problem.

 

More helpful if your include your year and engine and model and 4 matic or not

 

Same 2006 E280 E Class Estate W211

 

removed key. Engine is still running. Opened the hood, removed fuse box cover, removed relay (front one out of two in the back) . Engine shut off. Horn went off. Put key in. Alarm off. Put relay back in. Drove for about 10 miles. Kept car running. Did the following

To reset the ESP warning follow this procedure:

1. Start up your Mercedes-Benz.
2. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and hold it there for two seconds.
3. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right and hold it there for two seconds.
4. Repeat procedure one more time. ...
5. Turn off the car and restart it.

All good so far.

 

Not sure why you are getting an esp warning, when I removed that relay there was no earnings after.

I think I have narrowed my problem to the fuse box (Sam?) On drivers side not sealing properly. I had the problem three times in a couple of weeks.

To test if it was a leak causing the issue I wrapped the box in a silicone baking tray...

It hasn't gone wrong since...😋

 

I have found this forum to be very helpful and I'd like to share my experience in the hope that I can help others.
And at the same time, ask if someone can help me further with this problem.
Here's what happened:
1. My wife and I took a drive out of the city to get away for the afternoon and I stopped to get gas. I asked her to push the starter button to turn off the engine, which she did, but I noticed the car was still running.
2. Soon afterwards, while she went into a drugstore, I repeated the scenario, and sure enough, the engine didn't turn off.
3. When I got home, I looked it up and saw this thread. Here's what I did:
a. I disconnected the battery terminals - didn't work
b. All the fuses were tight, no burnouts or anything
c. I couldn't find the exact relay mentioned above, but I pulled out each of them in sequence - negative
d. I located the hose that's mentioned a few times. Folks, don't do this unless the stores are open and you won't be needing your car for a while.
I squeezed the hose and it was so brittle that it split, rendering the task useless. There was just no way to squeeze it shut, although I came close to doing it and the engine slowed down, but I was never successful.
I happened to have a 1/4" bold in my toolkit and pushed it into the hose. That was better, but it still didn't work.
The hose is a write-off and has to be replaced.
So, that's what happened to me. Here's how I fixed it (I'm not proud of the next part, but hey, I'm a hacker from way back)
Last week I tapped into the glovebox power and soldered in a cigarette lighter USB charger so I could have my Bluetooth receiver turn on when the car started and be able to play through the AUX port.
I had nothing to lose by trying it, so I got back in there and cut the wire: the engine stopped. Tested and re-tested: problem solved.
I'm saying all this because I believe that the ECU theories mentioned above are probably accurate.
There may be a bad ground, crossed wire, short circuit, probably anything that will cause an imbalance in the power systems.

If you're still with me, I have an urgent request, please:
I need to find a replacement for that hose. I don't even know what it's called. I had to hack it, so it's not pretty.
Can anyone identify it, please? I would really appreciate it.

 

My baking tray is still there wrapped around the SAM box on the driver's side, held in place with the cover that clips in above it.

Been there 6 months now and haven't had the issue again.

 

Problem had to disconnect the battery on my 2004 mercedes benz S Class 430 AMG Spot pkg. Need to hit my local mechanic today. Will try to give the answer
my mercedes was saying I need to delete my history then it said SRS Don't recognize my key fob . I tried shutting it down with key as well as shifter start engine and stop engine it was 2 am when this happened I was lucky I was home to have the tools to do so even though I didn't like the idea of shutting down this way . My hope is my local fantastic mechanic can help me solve this problem. Thanks for reading. Jack Mac

 

I apologize for bringing up this old thread. I had a similar issue with my car, it turns out that I had a malfunctioning fuel pump relay, the relay was short circuit and causing the current to still flow in the fuel pump. I did a lot of searches on this issue and came on in depth article which may be worth reading, search for " Car keeps Running After Engine Turned Off on YOUCANIC" and you will see an article that goes over common causes and possible fixes, you can read about it yourself. I hope this information can assist someone else with a similar issue.

 

​​I just tried this I could only find a loaf pan so I am wondering if this is similar? Yes I have attached the cover piece as well.

Sorry for bringing this back up 🙈

 

Hi how did you fix it?

 

Just fixed this problem tonight on my CLS.

I've just had the car valeted and the jet wash has obviously sprayed inside the fuse box under the bonnet.

Step 1 - Open the bonnet and on the driver's side (UK) is a fusebox. There are two slide tabs which lock this in place. You need to slide these to be able to take the top of the fusebox off.
Step 2 - On the right side of the fusebox are two relays - these are little boxes about 1" squared that are fixed into place by pins. These pull out fairly easily by hand. They are probably white-ish in colour
Step 3 - Pull out the relay closest to the steering wheel - BUT BEFORE YOU DO, NOTE THE SMALLER RELAY JUST INFRONT OF IT.
Step 4 - Having pulled the relay out the engine should have stopped. BUT NOW THE HORN IS SOUNDING VERY LOUDLY. Pull out the smaller relay just in front of the one you just pulled out. This will stop the horn.
Step 5 - Pour yourself a drink.
Step 6 - You now need an extension lead and a hairdryer. Water has got into the fuse box and needs to be dried up. Chances are you need to go at it for about 5-10 minutes to dry everything.
Step 7 - Put the key in the ignition and replace the two relays. Turn the car on. Turn off. Lock it. Open it. Turn on. Turn off.
Step 8 - Pour a second drink.

If you have any form of roadside assistance, call them out if you need to remove any outstanding error codes this fault has created and won't switch off.

Safe journey

M

 

my car started doing the same exact thing today and I don’t know where to start. Can I get any help or did you find a problem?

 

Had the same after 25 days without srarting
disconnected the horns
put new battery
key did not turn
took the EIS out and open, made the key turn by pushing up the relay contact
played with the naked switch until it started by coinsidence
later on I cleand the IR on the key
made many restarts
made the lufting easier with longer pin
still takes some play to start and I plan 1 hour before I need to go , for starting
lots of battery disconnections
To turn of the engine I pull up a big black relay in the engine SAM
slowly it looks like the engine knows my key again but it is far from being satisfactory.
I wrote MB Germany to complain, hope they take responsibility for bad software in their car....
Thanks for reading
Avi
aofek54@gmail.com
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