Hey Guys,

I did some searches and found that it's a common issue for the cam plugs leak, also dealer told me that my oil separator cap is also leaking. I believe the parts for Cam Plug was $35, while the Oil Separator Cap was $110. but the dealer is charging me $320 labor for both items. If it's something simple, I rather do it my self.

Any idea how hard is to replace these items myself?

 

My car was diagnosed with the Oil Separator leaking issue at my last oil change, they quotes me about $238 or something to replace it. I'm holding off for now since it's not urgent but a DIY would be great if it's simple.

 

Just did a cam plug on a clk550.

The part was $6 full dealer retail (big plug) and it literally takes 5 minutes to replace once the airbox is off. You literally use a medium size flat head screwdriver and pry the plug off the head. No bolts, no sealant, nothing.

to install, just put some fresh oil on the oring and pop it back in.

its that simple.

 

Hi Oliverk,

So I would assume the job/installation would be similar for an E350? The dealer said they come in packs of 3, because there are 3 on the car---is that true? How did you get just one, or determine which one of the three you needed to replace?

And from beginning to end (including airbox removal), how long would you say it took? How hard is the airbox to remove? Sorry I sound so ignorant, but I am not a big mechanical person when it comes to M-B. Totally lost

 

Thanks for the instructions. When you unplug the Cam Plug, will the existing oil leak out? If it's that easy, then I will do it myself. But I am hoping to have all the locations of the cam plugs, so I can replace them all at once.

 

Yes, job should be the same.

As far as I know, there are two on the driver side (large and small) and the air/oil separator is on the passenger side. I don't know of a third.

Including airbox removal, it took maybe 20 minutes.

Part numbers for both the V6 and V8 motors:

Large plug: A000 998 5690
small plug: A000 998 5590

They are so easy to replace, I'd just do both.

Instructions:

1. Lift up cover with star on it in the front. then pop up the back on each side and remove

2. Slide intake tubes towards radiator off the airbox

3. just lift the airbox up at the front, it sits on rubber mounts. on the rear, lift up until loose. At that point, just take the whole airbox off.

4. using a smaller flat head screwdriver, pry the larger plug off on the inside (towards the v) edge against a head casting boss. prying from the top doesn't work, but the side makes it come off. Don't go buckwild, it should come out easily. Once its loose, pry a little on each side until you can remove by hand.

5. repeat for the little one.

6. use a clean towel to just wipe the inside of the head.

7. take new plugs, add a little clean oil to the o-ring and insert into the head. Make sure all the little prongs are in the head, and push it into place.

Make sure its all the way in.

8. Reassemble airbox in opposite order.

If you see above, there should be 2 on the drivers side head, but the clk I did had the air/oil separator on the passenger side with no plugs.

If you do this with the motor cold from sitting overnight, very little oil will leak out. I did it warm and maybe 50ml leaked out. Not a big deal, but it does leak right down on to the catalytic converters so it will smell and smoke if you don't clean it up.

This is really stupid easy.

 

For the oil seperator AKA - rear centrifuge. You will need 2 parts and a 4 pack of screws (highly recommended). The M272 & M273 share the same part number for the Housing.


Part Numbers
Centrifuge = A 273 010 01 62
Housing Cover = A 272 010 06 31
T30Housing Cover screws package of 4 = 000000-001478

Tools needed
T30 socket bit
T30 Hex Key
6mm Torx OR Spline deep socket

1. Once you have removed the air box, you will be able to remove/replace the centrifuge and housing cover.

2. Remove the hose attached to the Housing Cover.

3. Using a combination of the T30 tools, remove the 4 Housing cover screws. The top screw closest to the shock tower was/is a pain due to the firewall. The Hex key worked very well for me.

4. The 6mm Torx OR Spline deep socket is where you will need to insert into the back center of the Centrifuge. My socket had to be clocked counter-clockwise to remove. Once the screw is removed, the Centrifuge will come out.

5. There is a paper-like substance inside the center of the Housing. Notice the old Housing is worn (or should be worn) compared to the new part. Once the new Centrifuge has been installed, snap the Housing onto the Centrifuge. The paper-like substance will "snap" onto the Centrifuge. Just be sure the gasket on the new Housing does not shift during install.

6. The 4 new screws can now be installed into the new Housing.

7. Reconnect the hose on the Housing and re-install the air-box.

 

Thanks OliverK and also J Dubya!

But I do have a question for J Dubya, if I only need to replace the oil separator cap, do I still need all those parts you listed above?

 

The seal / housing cover is leaking on my 06 E350 4m. I'm assuming I can just replace this part (Housing Cover = A 272 010 06 31), correct? And may I ask where this is located in the engine bay - driver side or passenger side? Should be something I can do myself. thx.

 

J Dubya

Question for ya...I just called the dealership to order the Centrifuge = A 273 010 01 62 and he said the part doesn't exist. He said the Housing Cover = A 272 010 06 31 superceeds the former, and this includes both the centrifuge and cover (said the whole thing was $72---does that sound right?). Is that what happened with you? How long ago did you purchase yours (maybe they did an update)?

He also said the four screws were $8.00--does that sound right?

 

That'sentirely up to you. I changed all parts since they all relate to each other and for piece of mind. The Housing Cap on mine definitely had to be changed due to the gasket that seals the Centrifuge on the old cap was stretched out

I don't see why not, just be mindful that if part of the leak is the Centrifuge, you'll have to go back and do the job , again. The piece is located behind the cylinder head on the passenger side.

Yep, that's exactly what happened to me. M-B changed/updated part number. My old Housing Cap had A 273 and the new has A 272. The prices for all my parts were: oil drip pan = $34.50, housing cover = $62.00 and screws = $6.80. All parts were purchased 12/29/12.

 

Wow, wonder why prices are different. Do you mind telling me what dealership you used so I can get mine to match prices with theirs?

 

Jackie Cooper Mercedes-Benz

 

I am struggle to remove the back cover. The Front cover is just lift it up but for the back cover, I tried but it did not move. Any trick or should I remove some screw??
Help please.
--John

 

nah, it sits on rubber mounts. It takes a good tug to lift it off the mounts but theres nothing else to it. some cars, like the cl550 have a metal bar that holds the cover down onto the maf in the back. that just needs to be popped off.

 

After removing slightly moisten retainers with lubricating paste, removal will be easier next time.

 

Thank you so much QuadCam

 

Your post was extremely helpful. I couldn't remove the single bolt holding the Centrifuge until l I found your explanation that it is REVERSE THREADED. I almost stripped the bolt by attempting to loosen it the wrong way but, fortunately, enough torx was left to get it off. For everyone else undertaking this project, the centrifuge is removed with an E8 external torx socket and the bolt is REVERSE THREADED. So, turn it clockwise to loosen the bolt and counterclockwise to tighten it. Of course, you are working upside down on the back of the engine which confuses things even more. To make it simple, just remember that loosening and tightening this bolt is accomplished by turning it in the opposite direction of a regular one.

 

Should I have oil in the hose going to the throttle body? Just called dealer and they asked a tech and said its normal...I already replaced housing/cover