Who has over 100,000 miles on their gasoline W211?
#301
Junior Member
So my 2006 E 350 I purchased with around 165k about 31/2 years ago. At that time the CEL was not on and I figured that I had managed to escape the dreaded balance shaft issue. At around 185k the light came on and the codeP0016/P0017 made it official. I now have 222k, drive it every day approx 90+ miles round trip to work with no performance issues. My sliding rear cover has stopped, auto backup mirror adjustment is intermittent, rear hatch struts are dead, a slow leak down on my left rear airbag, and I have developed an unusual tread wear pattern on the right rear tire that hollows out the inside corner and causes the tread to separate in several locations. The tire shop said that that alignment was good but I have had to replace this tire twice this year. I think I have figured out a way to change the balance shaft without removing the engine. I plan on tackling that this summer. I still get 22/23 mpg on highway and love the hauling cap.
#302
Super Member
Thread Starter
So you've driven 37,000 miles with a bad balance shaft? Any consequences? Worsened over time? When mine went the vibration was barely noticeable but I had it repaired within a hundred miles so I didn't have much experience driving it like that.
#303
Junior Member
No problems. It is my daily driver 90% highway. Acceleration and cruising and no vibes. I just have to get a waiver for my tags since my county in North Carolina requires no CEL. I have done a ton of research, watched numerous how to videos on changing that thing, but I do not have a garage so when I decide to tackle this project it will be truly shade-tree. I have never seen anyone change it without removing the engine.
#304
Member
So my 2006 E 350 I purchased with around 165k about 31/2 years ago. At that time the CEL was not on and I figured that I had managed to escape the dreaded balance shaft issue. At around 185k the light came on and the codeP0016/P0017 made it official. I now have 222k, drive it every day approx 90+ miles round trip to work with no performance issues. My sliding rear cover has stopped, auto backup mirror adjustment is intermittent, rear hatch struts are dead, a slow leak down on my left rear airbag, and I have developed an unusual tread wear pattern on the right rear tire that hollows out the inside corner and causes the tread to separate in several locations. The tire shop said that that alignment was good but I have had to replace this tire twice this year. I think I have figured out a way to change the balance shaft without removing the engine. I plan on tackling that this summer. I still get 22/23 mpg on highway and love the hauling cap.
#306
There's a thread entitled "How many miles on your W211?" but it has a bunch of low mile cars and doesn't differentiate between gasoline and diesel.
How far can a gasoline W211 go? I don't seem to read much about them over 100,000 miles. Do they disintegrate? Just die sudden deaths?
For example, I spoke to the service manager at the Toyota dealership and asked what kind of mileage older Sequoias are coming in with and he said regularly over 300,000 miles and if well maintained close to 500,000 miles. I know many people with similar stories, in varied cars. I know it's apples and oranges (or is it) but for those of us with gasoline cars who are considering keeping them over 100,000 miles I'm curious about what we might be getting into.
So... to aid us folks considering going over to the dark side of 100,000+ miles in gasoline W211's, those of you who have done it can you please post something along the lines of:
-Year
-Model
-Miles
-Mechanical issues
-Any other input you can give
Thanks!
How far can a gasoline W211 go? I don't seem to read much about them over 100,000 miles. Do they disintegrate? Just die sudden deaths?
For example, I spoke to the service manager at the Toyota dealership and asked what kind of mileage older Sequoias are coming in with and he said regularly over 300,000 miles and if well maintained close to 500,000 miles. I know many people with similar stories, in varied cars. I know it's apples and oranges (or is it) but for those of us with gasoline cars who are considering keeping them over 100,000 miles I'm curious about what we might be getting into.
So... to aid us folks considering going over to the dark side of 100,000+ miles in gasoline W211's, those of you who have done it can you please post something along the lines of:
-Year
-Model
-Miles
-Mechanical issues
-Any other input you can give
Thanks!
Otherwise, very tight and nice drive.
#308
Junior Member
103K miles
Bought used in 2009 at 29K, now has 103K. Bought extended warranty but cancelled it when factory warranty expired due to lack of problems.
70K Yaw sensor failed, Stealer wanted $2K to fix, reduced to $1250 when I declined due to cost! Never went back to him.
81K Evaporator temp sensor replacement solved AC freezing up on long trips. DIY
86K AC compressor replaced
< 90K Tumble flap arm failed but I chose to ignore this as they are stuck open, car passes emmissions, and mileage has not suffered.
96K. Bad oil leak from left cam plugs and right side breather
Replaced SBC battery at 57K and 99K miles with regular non-AGM motorcylce battery.
Change Mobil 1 0W40 oil (DIY) usually once at one year at ~6 to7K miles, or 10K whichever comes first. Tranny service every 39K miles.
About to replace voltage regulator to get rid of occasional low voltage warning, battery is fine.
Driven cross country 3 times, about to do it again this August. Great road car!
70K Yaw sensor failed, Stealer wanted $2K to fix, reduced to $1250 when I declined due to cost! Never went back to him.
81K Evaporator temp sensor replacement solved AC freezing up on long trips. DIY
86K AC compressor replaced
< 90K Tumble flap arm failed but I chose to ignore this as they are stuck open, car passes emmissions, and mileage has not suffered.
96K. Bad oil leak from left cam plugs and right side breather
Replaced SBC battery at 57K and 99K miles with regular non-AGM motorcylce battery.
Change Mobil 1 0W40 oil (DIY) usually once at one year at ~6 to7K miles, or 10K whichever comes first. Tranny service every 39K miles.
About to replace voltage regulator to get rid of occasional low voltage warning, battery is fine.
Driven cross country 3 times, about to do it again this August. Great road car!
#309
Super Member
109K and no mention of motor mounts being replaced? Or any suspension arms, rubber bushings torn or worn out? Struts haven't been replaced? That is amazing!
#310
Junior Member
i have 180+ on the e500 estate. just got done doing a LOF and state inspeciton. will need to do rear pads and rotors soon(er) and possibly valve cover gaskets in near future as well.
#311
Junior Member
145k and running strong (sort of)
The car runs great, absolutely no reason to turn it in. It runs well until it does. When something goes wrong it makes me panic (primarily due to towing and stealership partying on me).
Brake fluid flush once (stealer)
Steering fluid flush once (stealer)
Rear differential fluid once (stealer)
Central computer module (stealer, in fact it was alternator that I did myself)
Oil change every 5000 miles (diy)
Following are DIY with parts from FCP Euro
Three brake pad sets (two rear)
Transmission oil at 106k, 133k and then again 133k due to leak
Lower balljoints twice
Engine and transmission mounts twice
Two front suspensions
Two rear suspensions
Two rear struts
Valve cover resealing
Alternator once (dont do voltage regulator alone, does not last and results in towing)
Coolant flush at 110k and 120k (once at stealership and once myself in 10k after stealership work)
Thermostat (BorgWarner, preventive)
Coolant temp sensor (preventive, bosch I think)
4th set of tires (always go for name brand tires, dont repeat my mistake)
Thurst arm twice (will do this again with Lemforder)
Upper ball joints (once)
Lower control arm (preventive, with TRW from FCP)
Tie rods inner and outer (preventive, Lemforder)
Front sway bar link
Crankshaft position sensor
Idler pulley (preventive)
Tensioner (preventive, just pulley but put back the original, will do this again with INA)
All rotors (preventive)
Front wheel bearings (one side went bad again, but FCP use-abuse-return warranty covered it)
Ambient temp sensor
Now on 3rd battery. First battery lasted 11 years, second only 3 years (all MB batteries)
Secondary battery once
Air filter twice
Cabin air filter (once, I doubt it requires replacement, after 14 years the original one looked like new)
Cleaned throttled body once
Cleaned MAF once
I was getting 23 mpg doing 80 mph, after fixing vibration issues related to wheel bearing I am now getting 26.5 (doing 80 mph). I remember I was getting 28.5 doing 70 mph but no longer have the patience to do 70 mph
Brake fluid flush once (stealer)
Steering fluid flush once (stealer)
Rear differential fluid once (stealer)
Central computer module (stealer, in fact it was alternator that I did myself)
Oil change every 5000 miles (diy)
Following are DIY with parts from FCP Euro
Three brake pad sets (two rear)
Transmission oil at 106k, 133k and then again 133k due to leak
Lower balljoints twice
Engine and transmission mounts twice
Two front suspensions
Two rear suspensions
Two rear struts
Valve cover resealing
Alternator once (dont do voltage regulator alone, does not last and results in towing)
Coolant flush at 110k and 120k (once at stealership and once myself in 10k after stealership work)
Thermostat (BorgWarner, preventive)
Coolant temp sensor (preventive, bosch I think)
4th set of tires (always go for name brand tires, dont repeat my mistake)
Thurst arm twice (will do this again with Lemforder)
Upper ball joints (once)
Lower control arm (preventive, with TRW from FCP)
Tie rods inner and outer (preventive, Lemforder)
Front sway bar link
Crankshaft position sensor
Idler pulley (preventive)
Tensioner (preventive, just pulley but put back the original, will do this again with INA)
All rotors (preventive)
Front wheel bearings (one side went bad again, but FCP use-abuse-return warranty covered it)
Ambient temp sensor
Now on 3rd battery. First battery lasted 11 years, second only 3 years (all MB batteries)
Secondary battery once
Air filter twice
Cabin air filter (once, I doubt it requires replacement, after 14 years the original one looked like new)
Cleaned throttled body once
Cleaned MAF once
I was getting 23 mpg doing 80 mph, after fixing vibration issues related to wheel bearing I am now getting 26.5 (doing 80 mph). I remember I was getting 28.5 doing 70 mph but no longer have the patience to do 70 mph
#312
There's a thread entitled "How many miles on your W211?" but it has a bunch of low mile cars and doesn't differentiate between gasoline and diesel.
How far can a gasoline W211 go? I don't seem to read much about them over 100,000 miles. Do they disintegrate? Just die sudden deaths?
For example, I spoke to the service manager at the Toyota dealership and asked what kind of mileage older Sequoias are coming in with and he said regularly over 300,000 miles and if well maintained close to 500,000 miles. I know many people with similar stories, in varied cars. I know it's apples and oranges (or is it) but for those of us with gasoline cars who are considering keeping them over 100,000 miles I'm curious about what we might be getting into.
So... to aid us folks considering going over to the dark side of 100,000+ miles in gasoline W211's, those of you who have done it can you please post something along the lines of:
-Year
-Model
-Miles
-Mechanical issues
-Any other input you can give
Thanks!
How far can a gasoline W211 go? I don't seem to read much about them over 100,000 miles. Do they disintegrate? Just die sudden deaths?
For example, I spoke to the service manager at the Toyota dealership and asked what kind of mileage older Sequoias are coming in with and he said regularly over 300,000 miles and if well maintained close to 500,000 miles. I know many people with similar stories, in varied cars. I know it's apples and oranges (or is it) but for those of us with gasoline cars who are considering keeping them over 100,000 miles I'm curious about what we might be getting into.
So... to aid us folks considering going over to the dark side of 100,000+ miles in gasoline W211's, those of you who have done it can you please post something along the lines of:
-Year
-Model
-Miles
-Mechanical issues
-Any other input you can give
Thanks!
#313
141,000 on my 2003 E320 I have owned it for 9 months, was given the car by an older couple that was moving and did not want to make it roadworthy again.
I have replaced the:
Battery, aux battery, battery control module, battery relay, alternator, cup holder, right rear door glass (broken), fuel filter, visors, front brake pads, fixed trunk leak, cleaned carpets and replaced heater switching valve.
Next it needs a transmission service, tune up, brake flush, cooling system flush, rear axle service, oil change and a headliner. I have found no major problems with the car and try to drive it at least 250 miles a week.
I have replaced the:
Battery, aux battery, battery control module, battery relay, alternator, cup holder, right rear door glass (broken), fuel filter, visors, front brake pads, fixed trunk leak, cleaned carpets and replaced heater switching valve.
Next it needs a transmission service, tune up, brake flush, cooling system flush, rear axle service, oil change and a headliner. I have found no major problems with the car and try to drive it at least 250 miles a week.
#314
104,000 miles on my 2008 E350 4Matic. I drive about 5-6000 miles a year.
-Oil changes (DIY with vacuum extractor)
-Brake service including fluid replacement and greasing calipers
-Air filters, cabin filter
-Spark plugs at 100k
-Set of summer and winter tires (Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+, Bridgestone Blizzak WS80)
-Upgraded to SL55 wheels for summer, stock wheels for winter
-Replaced drivers seat foam
-Full detail and compound/polish every spring
Only outstanding issue is the rear pano roof shade, it seems to have come detached from the motor? and won't open. Have to drop the headliner to fix it, but if I've been putting it off while considering upgrading to the alcantara headliner found in the E63 and designo cars. Front bumper could also use a respray.
-Oil changes (DIY with vacuum extractor)
-Brake service including fluid replacement and greasing calipers
-Air filters, cabin filter
-Spark plugs at 100k
-Set of summer and winter tires (Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+, Bridgestone Blizzak WS80)
-Upgraded to SL55 wheels for summer, stock wheels for winter
-Replaced drivers seat foam
-Full detail and compound/polish every spring
Only outstanding issue is the rear pano roof shade, it seems to have come detached from the motor? and won't open. Have to drop the headliner to fix it, but if I've been putting it off while considering upgrading to the alcantara headliner found in the E63 and designo cars. Front bumper could also use a respray.
#315
Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 4
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E 400 cabriolet
2007 E 550
2007 E 550 (gas, not 4 matic), bought well kept at 34,000. Now 132,000. Keyless Go just stopped working 4 weeks ago, but otherwise nothing but well known brushings, suspension arms/joints, motor mounts-- costs not bad as either warranty at dealer or great local indie Goose here in SA. Considered selling cuz bought new cabriolet but keeping to see if can reach almost 300,00 mom's SLE reached. I am looking into upgrade of command audio as like functionality of cabriolet's system & rear view camera.
#316
Out Of Control!!
2007 E 550 (gas, not 4 matic), bought well kept at 34,000. Now 132,000. Keyless Go just stopped working 4 weeks ago, but otherwise nothing but well known brushings, suspension arms/joints, motor mounts-- costs not bad as either warranty at dealer or great local indie Goose here in SA. Considered selling cuz bought new cabriolet but keeping to see if can reach almost 300,00 mom's SLE reached. I am looking into upgrade of command audio as like functionality of cabriolet's system & rear view camera.
Search the fix.
#317
Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: San Antonio, TX
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E 400 cabriolet
Thanks
Thanks. Done so & unfortunately (fortunately?) not just start button. Great info on issue but none worked. Probably end up paying dealer unless too crazy at which time will do as did in good ole days w first 8 Benz & use key.
#319
Out Of Control!!
#320
Out Of Control!!
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: unbegrenzt
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2017 GLE350 4MATIC
Bought used in 2009 at 29K, now has 103K. Bought extended warranty but cancelled it when factory warranty expired due to lack of problems.
70K Yaw sensor failed, Stealer wanted $2K to fix, reduced to $1250 when I declined due to cost! Never went back to him.
81K Evaporator temp sensor replacement solved AC freezing up on long trips. DIY
86K AC compressor replaced
< 90K Tumble flap arm failed but I chose to ignore this as they are stuck open, car passes emmissions, and mileage has not suffered.
96K. Bad oil leak from left cam plugs and right side breather
Replaced SBC battery at 57K and 99K miles with regular non-AGM motorcylce battery.
Change Mobil 1 0W40 oil (DIY) usually once at one year at ~6 to7K miles, or 10K whichever comes first. Tranny service every 39K miles.
About to replace voltage regulator to get rid of occasional low voltage warning, battery is fine.
Driven cross country 3 times, about to do it again this August. Great road car!
70K Yaw sensor failed, Stealer wanted $2K to fix, reduced to $1250 when I declined due to cost! Never went back to him.
81K Evaporator temp sensor replacement solved AC freezing up on long trips. DIY
86K AC compressor replaced
< 90K Tumble flap arm failed but I chose to ignore this as they are stuck open, car passes emmissions, and mileage has not suffered.
96K. Bad oil leak from left cam plugs and right side breather
Replaced SBC battery at 57K and 99K miles with regular non-AGM motorcylce battery.
Change Mobil 1 0W40 oil (DIY) usually once at one year at ~6 to7K miles, or 10K whichever comes first. Tranny service every 39K miles.
About to replace voltage regulator to get rid of occasional low voltage warning, battery is fine.
Driven cross country 3 times, about to do it again this August. Great road car!
#322
Junior Member
i am at 150,000 miles, pot holes in my area are causing me to have to replace wheels and suspension components, but other wise its been great.
I have replaced the intake manifold, various intake solenoids, the oil breather, and the transmission conductor plate.
I have also had to fix a hose on my sunroof drain.
Next project is CV Boot replacement
I have replaced the intake manifold, various intake solenoids, the oil breather, and the transmission conductor plate.
I have also had to fix a hose on my sunroof drain.
Next project is CV Boot replacement
#323
Junior Member
I do my own oil service, but without a lift, trannys are a lot messier on my garage floor so I let the local Indie shop do it. Drop the pan, replace the fluid lost and replace the filter. Not a flush.
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chassis (11-17-2019)