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My 2004 E500 4matic sedan has 148k. Touchwood, only thing I've ever had to deal with is replacing the Airmatic here and there, and associated with that the air compressor for the airmatic system burned out once, Also, needed a new transfer case at around 120k miles, though I find that completely acceptable due to extensive winter/icy condition driving in areas with lots of hills, potholes, and tight turns/curves. Also recently had to replace the alternator, which again seems acceptable at 19 years old.
Aside from that it's been super solid.
Could use some TLC though, mainly, the clips that hold the marker lights have worn down to the point where they need to be secured with tape until I can fix it in a neater way. There is definitely one wheel bearing that has had it's day. And I do think it's time for another set of suspension bushings, maybe engine mounts or steering bushings/subframe bushings, really anything squishy. Would be nice to get that super tight feel back.
Mine just turned 167,000 last night. And I have zero doubt it will last another 100k. At a minimum. Car still pulls like brand new, handles like it's on rails and the Airmatic is in tip top shape. Service C is due in 11,000 miles but I'm going to take it in at 170k and have it inspected since I'm hearing a slight squeal for about two seconds at startup, either coming from the air conditioner or somewhere behind the dash. This is actually my second 2005 W211 with an M113. When I was married (2014-16) ww had a dark blue E500 4Matic that was just amazing. Never had a single issue. Not once. Plus, it had Keyless GO, Dynamic seats and the ventilated seats option, whereas this silver one I own now has heated seats only. The blue one had 145k on iy when I traded it in for a black 2010 S550 (which my ex- ended up getting...then trading in for a Lexus LS460)
Last edited by jrocco1971; 07-17-2023 at 02:03 PM.
Reason: Add pic
My son's 07 E350 just turned 233k miles (375k Kilometers).
No serious issues since intake manifold replacement at 159k miles.
Accelerator pedal replaced yesterday to address P2122 code.
Just purchased the car two months ago, but:
2002 E240
Roughly 101,242 miles (from KMs)
What has been replaced/done:
New sway bar links
New ball joints
New powersteering lines (leaking from crimped points)
New engine mounts
New spark plugs
New A/C compressor bearing
What hasn't been replaced/done:
Front shock absorbers (still usable but is significantly lower than normal height)
Ignition coils (only one weak coil but better replace them all)
Total engine care (incl. intake carbon cleaning, injector cleaning, EGR cleaning, retune)
Lead acid batteries (both main and auxillary, car flickers slightly at idle)
Just purchased the car two months ago, but:
2002 E240
Roughly 101,242 miles (from KMs)
What has been replaced/done:
New sway bar links
New ball joints
New powersteering lines (leaking from crimped points)
New engine mounts
New spark plugs
New A/C compressor bearing
What hasn't been replaced/done:
Front shock absorbers (still usable but is significantly lower than normal height)
Ignition coils (only one weak coil but better replace them all)
Total engine care (incl. intake carbon cleaning, injector cleaning, EGR cleaning, retune)
Lead acid batteries (both main and auxillary, car flickers slightly at idle)
I don't think your flickering lights are caused by old battery... more like an alternator issue or oxidized main GND engine/chassis strap.
Check the running voltage under load is above 13VDC.
This being the "high mileage" thread... around what mileage are the W211 alternator brushes getting too short:
80k
100k
110kMi <<<--- ?
120k
150k
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 07-20-2023 at 09:29 PM.
Checked the charging voltage when I had to jumpstart the car yesterday...
Multimeter read 13.68v which sounded a bit on the lower side but I'm not sure. Battery couldn't hold a charge for a day it seems, because I went to warm up the car and it's dead again.
Checked the charging voltage when I had to jumpstart the car yesterday...
Multimeter read 13.68v which sounded a bit on the lower side but I'm not sure. Battery couldn't hold a charge for a day it seems, because I went to warm up the car and it's dead again.
Why didn't you check the battery before you started the car? 13.68 might not be that bad if the car is at idle. Once you're driving it, it should be over 14.
You can get the car to display the voltage by switching to the temperature display with the car on but not running and hitting the reset button 3 times. Then you'll see the voltage before and after you start the car and it will still display while you're driving it although you might have to switch back to it.
13.7V means your alternator is doing its work to supply the car.
Do read the display as indicated by @cetialpha5 as it provides valuable information with normal driving loads operating.
Next it's s for you to decide ...:
-- if the battery is old enough to get replaced or
-- if one of the GND straps is compromised or
-- if you have a vampire draining power...
this could be why this car got put up for sale.
Look at battery date code and overall condition. It may have a bad cell with internal short (junk lead particles at the bottom of a conventional liquid lead-acid batt).
Flickering power is helping age the old undersized capacitors. Let's try to fix it.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 07-22-2023 at 03:06 PM.
Hi Folks,
I'm looking to see if anybody has replaced their exhaust system, 1 or both sides, in their W211 E350 (M272) engine car.
My son's car has 240k miles on it and is throwing a P0432 code. This indicates bank 2, downstream O2 sensor.
However, when I took the car to my indy mechanic, he said the left side exhaust system needs to be replaced. Cat back.
I've searched the general W211 forum and have found several posts regarding mods to exhaust, but no factory replacement.
Hi Folks,
I'm looking to see if anybody has replaced their exhaust system, 1 or both sides, in their W211 E350 (M272) engine car.
My son's car has 240k miles on it and is throwing a P0432 code. This indicates bank 2, downstream O2 sensor.
However, when I took the car to my indy mechanic, he said the left side exhaust system needs to be replaced. Cat back.
I've searched the general W211 forum and have found several posts regarding mods to exhaust, but no factory replacement.
I'd appreciate any thoughts,
Well they're basically stainless steel so normally they don't wear out. Take it to a muffler shop and see what they say. Also I'd replace the two upstream sensors. The downstream sensor is basically telling you the cats are shot as the readings are the same. You can get an aftermarket cat on rockauto otherwise they're super expensive from the dealer. You can't buy used ones. You can buy used exhausts though, I see them all the time at the junkyards. Try car-part.com for pick and pull yards near you and search for a particular part and see if they have any W211 in the lot. Half the time that I've been to a junkyard, the exhaust is just sitting around as they already ripped the cats out. Anyway I think on mine, there was a clamp holding the left exhaust together, took it to a muffler shop and they said they happened to have a clamp that fit it so they just welded it back on, otherwise they said it was a special order from MB that can take a while. The clamp had basically rusted away and half my exhaust was on the ground pole vault style, luckily I was able to remove the hanger in the back and stuff the rear of the exhaust in my trunk.
Well they're basically stainless steel so normally they don't wear out. Take it to a muffler shop and see what they say. Also I'd replace the two upstream sensors. The downstream sensor is basically telling you the cats are shot as the readings are the same. You can get an aftermarket cat on rockauto otherwise they're super expensive from the dealer. You can't buy used ones. You can buy used exhausts though, I see them all the time at the junkyards. Try car-part.com for pick and pull yards near you and search for a particular part and see if they have any W211 in the lot. Half the time that I've been to a junkyard, the exhaust is just sitting around as they already ripped the cats out. Anyway I think on mine, there was a clamp holding the left exhaust together, took it to a muffler shop and they said they happened to have a clamp that fit it so they just welded it back on, otherwise they said it was a special order from MB that can take a while. The clamp had basically rusted away and half my exhaust was on the ground pole vault style, luckily I was able to remove the hanger in the back and stuff the rear of the exhaust in my trunk.
Thanks for the quick reply.
I'm aware of all the points you have made and am going through the same thought process.
Getting this car back to life is plan B. Plan A is replacing the car, altogether. My son needs a dependable ride and is not as DIY as me.
Fixing the 07 E350 will be temporary. At 240k miles, something else will rear it's ugly head very soon and he really can't complain.
He bought this car 10 years ago, with 80k miles on it. It owes him nothing.
Well they're basically stainless steel so normally they don't wear out. Take it to a muffler shop and see what they say. Also I'd replace the two upstream sensors. The downstream sensor is basically telling you the cats are shot as the readings are the same. You can get an aftermarket cat on rockauto otherwise they're super expensive from the dealer. You can't buy used ones. You can buy used exhausts though, I see them all the time at the junkyards. Try car-part.com for pick and pull yards near you and search for a particular part and see if they have any W211 in the lot. Half the time that I've been to a junkyard, the exhaust is just sitting around as they already ripped the cats out. Anyway I think on mine, there was a clamp holding the left exhaust together, took it to a muffler shop and they said they happened to have a clamp that fit it so they just welded it back on, otherwise they said it was a special order from MB that can take a while. The clamp had basically rusted away and half my exhaust was on the ground pole vault style, luckily I was able to remove the hanger in the back and stuff the rear of the exhaust in my trunk.
If you literally need the cat back, meaning including the cat for my example, either go to a muffler shop and have them build the section or look for something like magnaow that might have a drop in replacement. When I damaged a cat from road debris years ago on an e55, it as either 5k for a Mercedes part or 279 dollars for a magnaflow drop in section…. I chose the magnaflow cat section. Good luck.
Just passed 150,000 miles. LOVE the car, but have spent quite a bit keeping it on the road. Replaced all four air struts, motor mounts, heater control valve, tie rods, wouldn't start yesterday = dead fuel pump probably caused by intake manifold crack they found. Still worth it, compared to trying to replace it.
Well, sound Taps please.
After 10 years of ownership and 170,000 miles, my son's E350 has thrown in the towel.
Left front coil spring broke. Which means the right one is soon to go.
Many other non-working features have help him to decide to euthanize rather than continue.
Sad to lose a Benz.
Well, sound Taps please.
After 10 years of ownership and 170,000 miles, my son's E350 has thrown in the towel.
Left front coil spring broke. Which means the right one is soon to go.
Many other non-working features have help him to decide to euthanize rather than continue.
Sad to lose a Benz.
Were they they original springs? I changed mine years ago with new OEM MB springs and aftermarket bilstein struts. I'm not even at 140k yet.
Were they they original springs? I changed mine years ago with new OEM MB springs and aftermarket bilstein struts. I'm not even at 140k yet.
I assume these were original. Son bought the car with 80k miles on it and we never changed them.
I expect they would last at least 100k but 250k is very good. Especially in New England.
I assume these were original. Son bought the car with 80k miles on it and we never changed them.
I expect they would last at least 100k but 250k is very good. Especially in New England.
They were well known to crack with age and I'm also in New England. I don't think the spring was that expensive, around $60-$70 for the spring.
Anyone have any suggestions on what I should look for or be keeping an eye out for and what I should replace for PM? It doesn't shift hard but it's not as smooth as my GLK350, and I get a very very slight vibration around 40mph~, thinking it's either driveshaft bushing or something else minimal. No CEL at all so far.
Well, sound Taps please.
After 10 years of ownership and 170,000 miles, my son's E350 has thrown in the towel.
Left front coil spring broke. Which means the right one is soon to go.
Many other non-working features have help him to decide to euthanize rather than continue.
Sad to lose a Benz.
Anyone have any suggestions on what I should look for or be keeping an eye out for and what I should replace for PM? It doesn't shift hard but it's not as smooth as my GLK350, and I get a very very slight vibration around 40mph~, thinking it's either driveshaft bushing or something else minimal. No CEL at all so far.
Is it the 4matic or RWD? 4matic has the transmission connector that goes bad causing weird shifts. Should change it when doing the transmission fluid. Otherwise the 7 speed doesn't have that but you could try a transmission reset for it to relearn shifting, it gets sluggish with age. Vibration could be aftermarket axle shafts or the motor mounts which is also very common. Otherwise, oil separator/breather cover to make the intake manifold last longer. Other usual stuff on the engine is the oil plugs in the back of the engine, the oil cooler/coolant gaskets by the oil filter, tensioners/pulleys/thermostat. If you change the thermostat, the pulleys have to come off so it's a good time to do it all at the same time.
Originally Posted by N_Jay
Just put in a set of scrap yard springs.
That's a little nuts, like using used oxygen sensors or brake rotors/brake pads. When I replaced mine, I had them next to each other and they looked fine, but the old ones sagged with weight on them and the new ones were at a higher ride height.
2011 Mercedes-Benz GLK350 4Matic, 2008 Mercedes-Benz E350 Sport Pkg.
Originally Posted by cetialpha5
Is it the 4matic or RWD? 4matic has the transmission connector that goes bad causing weird shifts. Should change it when doing the transmission fluid. Otherwise the 7 speed doesn't have that but you could try a transmission reset for it to relearn shifting, it gets sluggish with age. Vibration could be aftermarket axle shafts or the motor mounts which is also very common. Otherwise, oil separator/breather cover to make the intake manifold last longer. Other usual stuff on the engine is the oil plugs in the back of the engine, the oil cooler/coolant gaskets by the oil filter, tensioners/pulleys/thermostat. If you change the thermostat, the pulleys have to come off so it's a good time to do it all at the same time.
That's a little nuts, like using used oxygen sensors or brake rotors/brake pads. When I replaced mine, I had them next to each other and they looked fine, but the old ones sagged with weight on them and the new ones were at a higher ride height.
Appreciate the reply! I'll start digging into all that other stuff to stay ahead of any possible issues. It's the RWD version.
Pretty much a W211 E-class, but not quite I have a CLS55 AMG W219 with about 126k miles on the clock. I bought it 2 years ago and have done a lot of (preventative) maintenance. My build thread is in the W219 section, but might also be valuable for you as a lot of things are similar between W219 <> W211 chassis.
The startpost contains links, so you don't need to search for information relevant to you.
I try to create youtube vids of all the work that I do, to hopefully help the next one who wants to do the same >
There's a thread entitled "How many miles on your W211?" but it has a bunch of low mile cars and doesn't differentiate between gasoline and diesel.
How far can a gasoline W211 go? I don't seem to read much about them over 100,000 miles. Do they disintegrate? Just die sudden deaths?
For example, I spoke to the service manager at the Toyota dealership and asked what kind of mileage older Sequoias are coming in with and he said regularly over 300,000 miles and if well maintained close to 500,000 miles. I know many people with similar stories, in varied cars. I know it's apples and oranges (or is it) but for those of us with gasoline cars who are considering keeping them over 100,000 miles I'm curious about what we might be getting into.
So... to aid us folks considering going over to the dark side of 100,000+ miles in gasoline W211's, those of you who have done it can you please post something along the lines of:
-Year
-Model
-Miles
-Mechanical issues
-Any other input you can give
05-31-2023, 12:33 PM
sorry
I have a CLS55 AMG W219 with about 126k miles on the clock. I bought it 2 years ago and have done a lot of (preventative) maintenance. My build thread is in the W219 section, but might also be valuable for you as a lot of things are similar between W219 <> W211 chassis.
