Today I noticed that the automatic closer wasn't working. The button isn't even lighted. Noticed also that the lights in the trunk are out. Got the message saying the license plate lights were out too. So, it was time to head to the forum.

I found a few good posts discussing the brown wire....but when I pulled the panel somewhat off (I saw somewhat because I couldn't get it out of the trim at the back edge of the trunk and didn't want to force it) I couldn't find any broken wires.

Here's the twist - my 3rd brake light still works and my trunk opener works from inside the car as well as with the key fob. The green warning light is still flashing as well. Every other post I read said that all power was lost to the trunk, but apparently I still have some.

Should I go back to searching for a broken wire or has anyone else seen this problem.

Thanks!

Update - pulled the car into the garage for the night. Out of curiosity, I checked the license plate lights. They were on. Then, I got the error message on the dash stating they were out....but they were on. No lights in trunk and trunk closer still not working though I am still able to open it from the inside, with the key fob, and using the lever on the underside of the deck.

I also checked fuse F011. It looked good to me.

The wire is broken and the ends touch and complete the circuit sometimes, causing intermittent issues.


Which piece of trim are you having trouble with?

When I tried to pull the panel on the left side out, it was tucked under a plastic piece at the back of the trunk. It didn't seem to be in a big hurry to come out so I didn't force it.

Oddly, going back, the dealer I bought it from, for CPO, fixed this exact issue.

I had to take off the trim piece at the rear of the trunk (with the inside trunk lights) to get mine loose.


If they fixed it under CPO, great!
My COP expired in December.

Mine expired last week(!). They definitely fixed it when they certified the car. The question will be if they agree to fix it again gratis. It doesn't help that I bought it from an MB dealer in KC and I live in St. Louis.

If they fixed it once, it should not break again.


The problem is an obvious design/assembly issue, that any idiot (err, mechanic) should have done the repair to avoid a second time.


The flexible tube they use to "protect" the wires is actually what slowly cuts through it. It need to be taped in such a way that the tube and wire move together and do not rub.


Easy to see (unless they figured it is a one time thing and just put in a splice).

Update: Ended up taking it in to my local dealer. When it was CPO'd, they fixed the issue but they didn't move the wiring loom. As expected, that was the root cause.

Sorted.

The best part - they did it gratis. I showed them the RO from the CPO dealer which might have helped, but it was gratis. If/when I sell this car, I'm going to miss my dealer....